im learning more each day. a few more questions

[mikess68]

Im am looking at a small door under the glove box side of the dash. i open it and it is full of leaves. it looks like maybe a manual vent or something. the car has air cond. what is that box with a door and are leaves in it a problem?

next. the kick down lever on the car. do i need to adjust it. the orginal 2bl carb is gone and it has a 4bl elde. it looks kind of too long but if you open it up all the way, it appears to pull the rod/cable some. not driveable yet so don't know if it is working right. around the parking lot it don't want to shift up too much from 1st to 2nd until you get a little fast.

next. if the interior is changed to black, the outside changed to another color, say green, are the door tops over the panels the black or the outside color.

next. the headliner is a thick kind of cardboard. is that right or should it have been covered with vinyl etc. the board appears good, but has been painted and would appear like something i should glue vinyl on. the only headlines i have seen if fabric. need a lot of help on this one espceially.

next. what are you using to do the quarter to top filler to put a vinyl top back on. is bondo or what. i dont' think seam sealer would work. and i have not used lead in 30 years.

next. the vaccum bottle does not have any hose ran to it. the two hoses that come from the dash are hooked together. therefor the controls don't move the position etc on the inside. the car has air cond. i see a spot for two hoses, but on the back side there appears a hold where maybe a third vaccum line nipple use to be??? anyway, how many line into the vac tank and which one runs to the intake?? did it have a check valve also.

next. the hood is a little stiff and the springs seem to want to spread out as you close it. is this just a lub issue or are they in trouble. its the springs/hinges that go down inside the front inner fenders. is them spreadig a normal thing.

does the trans suppose to have a vacc line anywhere like on a gm product.
....OK OK OK ill stop for now and get these answers before i post mor. THANK YOU GUYS, I REALLY NEED THE INFO :scratch:

 

[Burntorange70]

That box with leaves in it is a vent box. Here is a link that will show you how to clean it out. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=57215&highlight=vent


Sorry I cant answer the rest but some one will know.

Good luck on your build.

 

[rumblefish360]

Im am looking at a small door under the glove box side of the dash. i open it and it is full of leaves. it looks like maybe a manual vent or something. the car has air cond. what is that box with a door and are leaves in it a problem?

It is a manual vent, the leaves should be cleaned out. careful, when your driving down the road at Hwy. speed, the leaves will blind you.

next. the kick down lever on the car. do i need to adjust it. the orginal 2bl carb is gone and it has a 4bl elde. it looks kind of too long but if you open it up all the way, it appears to pull the rod/cable some. not driveable yet so don't know if it is working right. around the parking lot it don't want to shift up too much from 1st to 2nd until you get a little fast.

I'm not following to well here. FYI, it shold shift on it's won around 15 mph under a normal throttle operation. Normal driving.

next. if the interior is changed to black, the outside changed to another color, say green, are the door tops over the panels the black or the outside color.

I noticed there interior color, mostly black, but a bit of a customized look is good.

next. the headliner is a thick kind of cardboard. is that right or should it have been covered with vinyl etc. the board appears good, but has been painted and would appear like something i should glue vinyl on. the only headlines i have seen if fabric. need a lot of help on this one espceially.

No, bare painted black cardboard is correct. Remember, these were the cheap disposable cars of the area, much like the Hyundai excel of the late 80's and early 90's.
New plastic replacement headliners are available from Ledgenadry. Search the forum here for a thread or two on them.

next. what are you using to do the quarter to top filler to put a vinyl top back on. is bondo or what. i dont' think seam sealer would work. and i have not used lead in 30 years.

Toadys seam sealers are very good. You'll love'em over the 20 year old stuff you used to use. Eastwood also has a lead filler that isn't lead but designed to replace it for the correct filler for the purist.
I understand it is very good.

next. the vaccum bottle does not have any hose ran to it. the two hoses that come from the dash are hooked together. therefor the controls don't move the position etc on the inside. the car has air cond. i see a spot for two hoses, but on the back side there appears a hold where maybe a third vaccum line nipple use to be??? anyway, how many line into the vac tank and which one runs to the intake?? did it have a check valve also

.
I'm not sure I can help with this one. SOrry.

next. the hood is a little stiff and the springs seem to want to spread out as you close it. is this just a lub issue or are they in trouble. its the springs/hinges that go down inside the front inner fenders. is them spreadig a normal thing

.
Seems normal to me.

does the trans suppose to have a vacc line anywhere like on a gm product.

NO! The tranny works via a lever activated by a rod conected to the carb. Proper pressure must be maintained or your going to destry the tranny.

 

[mikess68]

ok, tks that got a lot of them out of the way. still looking for the vacc hose. see any forums on vacc hose to vac tank routing?

the correct presure on the shifter down rod.. looks like you have to go about 7/8 full throtle to activate the rod. its 3/4 before it starts to move. it has a large slip area and does not move right away. is this correct? the set up is a little quick, or lacking thought on the new carb. i will prob do a more permanent fix after i figure out the right amount of play.

well, they have a new bondo i hear, that will fill in and not crack. guess i could use that on. tks mike:thumbup:

 

[rumblefish360]

ok, tks that got a lot of them out of the way. still looking for the vacc hose. see any forums on vacc hose to vac tank routing?

Sorry, no.

the correct presure on the shifter down rod.. looks like you have to go about 7/8 full throtle to activate the rod. its 3/4 before it starts to move. it has a large slip area and does not move right away. is this correct? the set up is a little quick, or lacking thought on the new carb. i will prob do a more permanent fix after i figure out the right amount of play.

Not correct, very lacking, a more peranet fix is not needed later but RIGHT NOW!!!!!!!

The lever should apply pressure right away. Do not drive the car this way at all or ever, you WILL - BURN up the tranny quick, less than 20 miles or 20 min.s driving time will do it in dead.

well, they have a new bondo i hear, that will fill in and not crack. guess i could use that on. tks mike:thumbup:

Lead sub, not bondo.

 

[cosgig]

To adjust the kickdown lever, first loosen the lever from the carb linkage and then push it to a full on position, away from the carb. Next, open the carb throttle all the way and rehook up the linkage. If the linkage has a slot in it for a slide adjustment, make sure that when the carb is at full throttle, the kickdown is fully engaged, and when it is at idle, the kickdown linkage should have a relatively mild spring hooked to the front to draw it all the way forward so it is actuated right off idle. The spring usually goes to the same post as the throttle return spring. I might have a picture of mine , if I can find it, I'll post it. A correct operating kickdown linkage is essential for happy transmission operation.

 

[hemizach]

To adjust the kickdown lever, first loosen the lever from the carb linkage and then push it to a full on position, away from the carb. Next, open the carb throttle all the way and rehook up the linkage. If the linkage has a slot in it for a slide adjustment, make sure that when the carb is at full throttle, the kickdown is fully engaged, and when it is at idle, the kickdown linkage should have a relatively mild spring hooked to the front to draw it all the way forward so it is actuated right off idle. The spring usually goes to the same post as the throttle return spring. I might have a picture of mine , if I can find it, I'll post it. A correct operating kickdown linkage is essential for happy transmission operation.

Now if that didnt sound liek something that I would read in a manual :thumbup:

 

[mikess68]

ok, let me describe what i see and see how it sound to you guys.
the lever is connected to the pivot correct. the part that attaches to the throtle of the carb has a 2" long slot that allows movement of the throtle without engaging the kick down rod until about 3/4 way to wide open. in the resting position the slot is all the way forward and throtle movement can occur without movement of the kick down rod. is this the correct resting position?

 

[BWDart]

The 2 vac lines under the hood, one goes to full vacuum sometimes thru a moisture canister, the other goes to the water valve in the heater hose.

 

[cosgig]

Check out this pic of my set-up. As you can see, the spring I have on there holds the rod to the post on the throttle bracket. It is set to move the rod right off idle. The spring I described in my previous post would hook to the front of the slot and do the same job, pulling the rod forward to make the rod move right off idle. The adjustment on my rod is by turning the slotted end. To set my linkage, I slipped off the rod from the post and pushed it all the way back to fully engage it, then I opened the throttle all the way and then adjusted the slotted end to have the kickdown fully engaged when the throttle is wide open. That allows you the actual kickdown effect, or passing gear when you jump on the pedal, the trans kicks down. All other times, the kickdown rod acts as a pressure rod to actuate the 1-2 and the 2-3 upshift according to the rate of acceleration. That is why the rod must be drawn to the front to work right off idle. My set-up would normally have the spring hooked between the front of the eye of the slot and the throttle spring post , but I am using the 340 4 barrel kickdown set-up on my 273 and it has the provision for the side mounted spring. Hope this all helps, Geof

 

[mikess68]

YES NOWWW i get it. mine is the opcit. the throtle moves too far before it moves the rod. the rod must move as the carb moves to get the right shifting preasure. i have the carb at the opcit end of the slot and it moves too much and the rod does not move. ok good news is the trans dip stick smell ok, and it has not been driven sence the guy put the intake and carb on other than parking log moving around. ill adjust it. thats why it has to go too fast before the shift from 1 to 2. that as fast as i could get it in the parking lot for a test drive when i bought it. tks thats a great help.

 

[rumblefish360]

Great picture. Not all kick down material is the same and going from 2 to 4 bbl can be a bear.

Heres a 68 340 AVS with 2bbl. linkage being used.