In NEED..

[nodemon]

I am in need of a true mopar mechanic in the St Louis area to come help me figure some things out on this project of mine before I drive it... I mean tow it to the river and let it go for a swim. I just can't get it right.. Beer or money or both for your help...!!

 

[RustyRatRod]

I think @d5667 is in your area and is a super nice guy. Maybe he will help.

 

[nodemon]

I think @d5667 is in your area and is a super nice guy. Maybe he will help.

Thanks... I know you and many others have helped and given advice, but somethings are just beyond me hearing it and applying it. I'm running out of time. lol

 

[rumblefish360]

What’s the issues?

 

[George Jets]

Here is what we know at this point:

Looks like a 1972 Duster with a 1972 Dart front end.
Or an old Beak Car, 1973 Dart Sport with a 1972 Dart front end to get rid of the Beak.

The OP owner @nodemon No Demon as the name states, is a FABO Gold member > so that is a good thing.

The owner lives in the St. Louis area (Gateway to the West) if anyone is passing through.

The car appears to have the engine and drive train in the car, as it is not sitting "High in the Sky" like the way non-engine cars sit.

The color of the car is Red, with Plymouth center flat black hood scoop.

The Hood has safety hood pins without the locking pin keys, possibly some sort of Drag Racing Setup.

No Radio Antenna?

A little more information would be helpful.



* * * * *

 

[Kegan B]

What’s the issues?

Probably related to this thread but it may not be, Blow by..

 

[nodemon]

Here is what we know at this point:

Looks like a 1972 Duster with a 1972 Dart front end.
Or an old Beak Car, 1973 Dart Sport with a 1972 Dart front end to get rid of the Beak.

View attachment 1716372774

The OP owner @nodemon No Demon as the name states, is a FABO Gold member > so that is a good thing.

The owner lives in the St. Louis area (Gateway to the West) if anyone is passing through.

The car appears to have the engine and drive train in the car, as it is not sitting "High in the Sky" like the way non-engine cars sit.

The color of the car is Red, with Plymouth center flat black hood scoop.

The Hood has safety hood pins without the locking pin keys, possibly some sort of Drag Racing Setup.

No Radio Antenna?


View attachment 1716372771


A little more information would be helpful.



* * * * *

72 Demon w/ 71 318 installed. J heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 1406 carb. Engine is bored 0.040 over. Not sure on cam specs, but definitely not stock. Double roller timing chain. Unknown mileage on engine rebuild, but cylinders didn't look "worn".
4spd... 8 3/4 w/3.23
Biggest issues are, Engine shake and amp gauge showing 30+ at idle.

 

[nodemon]

What’s the issues?

Rough engine shake at idle.

 

[nutz]

start with vacuum gage
if low vac leak or timing,if bouncy compression

 

[volaredon]

I know a guy down there I don't think he's on a
FABO. He's done e bodies and I believe b bodies.
He has a 70 challenger convertible with like 500k miles, I believe he drives it daily. License plate is something like "HRTBRKR" and he goes by something real close to that in Moparts as well .. I just talked to him by PM on Moparts recently.
I'm not in the area but if I were and looking for any kind of car help he'd be my first look up. He knows Mopars extremely well.
He used to come up here every year for our (now defunct) car show. We're about 4-1/2 hours NE of st Louis, almost Chicago but not quite.
( Last time I was anywhere near there I went down and bought a Durango via Marketplace a year and a half ago and on our maiden voyage home coming up I-55 near Bloomington IL we dang near got taken out.... Me in the "new" ride and my wife following me in my pickup. Some idiot coming around an off ramp way too fast and spun out basically between us) ...

 

[George Jets]

Rough engine shake at idle.

What's the valve train? Solid Lifters? Hydraulic Lifters with Stock Mopar Stamped Rocker Arms? Hydraulic Lifters with adjustable roller rockers > need to have the correct preload on these... too much preload and you get a dead hole.


* * * * *

 

[nutz]

What's the valve train? Solid Lifters? Hydraulic Lifters with Stock Mopar Stamped Rocker Arms? Hydraulic Lifters with adjustable roller rockers > need to have the correct preload on these... too much preload and you get a dead hole.


* * * * *

any compression /valve train will give a jumpy valve gage ,quickest test and cheap tool to buy

 

[d5667]

Let me know where you are in the St. Louis area-that’s a big area and I’ll take a look

 

[nodemon]

Let me know where you are in the St. Louis area-that’s a big area and I’ll take a look

St Peters

 

[krazykuda]

Does it have the correct vibration damper???

 

[krazykuda]

72 Demon w/ 71 318 installed. J heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 1406 carb. Engine is bored 0.040 over. Not sure on cam specs, but definitely not stock. Double roller timing chain. Unknown mileage on engine rebuild, but cylinders didn't look "worn".
4spd... 8 3/4 w/3.23
Biggest issues are, Engine shake and amp gauge showing 30+ at idle.

Are the spark plug wires in the correct order??? It's easy to mix up the #5 and #7 wires... Start at TDC and the rotor pointing to #1 cylinder, then go around the distributor cap in the direction of rotation and make sure the wires match the firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2...

As for the amp gauge showing 30+ at idle, I would check/replace the voltage regulator... It sounds like it's not regulating the current and letting it go 'wide open'...

 

[d5667]

Ok I’m in Foristell thats not too far. Send me a message and I’ll give you my phone number and we can set a time

 

[Shorty Thompson]

Dbl check the dizzy cap isn't cross firing

 

[harrisonm]

It's usually something simple.

 

[nodemon]

Thanks to @RustyRatRod, @d5667 came over last week and had my engine running pretty smooth,(please don't ask what the issue was..lol..) but mentioned that I was probably one tooth off... So me being the confident one, decided to correct that...bad move I guess because now I have a backfire through carb here and there and engine dies. Again, I've checked, double checked and redid my timing several times, and still have the issue. I've followed directions starting with setting at TDC and also at 10 BTDC..
Here's another change I did, and possibly? has cause an issue... The threaded screw in my fuel line coming off carb was leaking.. I put Teflon tape on it and within seconds it started disintegrating... Could that disintegrated tape clogged something in carb to cause a backfire..? How can I check..? If so, can it be cleaned without a complete breakdown/rebuild..Just take top plate off and blow carb cleaner through..?
Here are a few pix where timing and distributor are now...am I missing something..? Thanks..!

 

[nutz]

Only pipe thread gets tape
That should be a flare nut

 

[nodemon]

Only pipe thread gets tape
That should be a flare nut

I did apply the right stuff...no leaks now.
And, I finally got the engine running without the carb backfire pops.. except now, when I turn it off, there's a bit of "run on".. Hopefully just some minor tweaking..

 

[nutz]

Too high idle
Or too much timing advance
Fuel leaking past the idle circuit

 

[George Jets]

Here is the proper line for the rotor to line up to the first bolt on the intake manifold. Angling over... when the crank is on TDC.

Did you pull the distributor after your new mopar friend left?

Looks like it's 1 tooth off too much to the passenger side.

Looks like it is perpendicular to the rear of the carb, when it should be angling towards that driver's front bolt on the manifold.

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[nutz]

Nice graphics.....