Inching into 12's..... 2.94's vs 3.23's

-
That rear fold down seat if you haven't taken one out before it is very heavy...
It's only four bolts and of course just popping the bottom cushion out would probably easily lose 100 lb... I never kept mine in there until I had it reupholstered and they upholstery was so nice I couldn't see leaving it in the garage anymore....
 
j par said:
That rear fold down seat if you haven't taken one out before it is very heavy...
It's only four bolts and of course just popping the bottom cushion out would probably easily lose 100 lb... I never kept mine in there until I had it reupholstered and they upholstery was so nice I couldn't see leaving it in the garage anymore....
Click to expand...
I've removed them before, but not in this car...
 
Last edited:
pittsburghracer said:
sooner or later he will find the power to create traction issues then it get tough, and more expensive.
Click to expand...

fishmens67 said:
Here's the answer

Doing good so far with only one tire doing all the work.
Click to expand...
Just dragging it back to this thread before we get too far between people posting their combos.
I have a built 904 for it but I have to buy a converter yet.
 
Ok, been a lot of questions on "what's next ?" both here and my Utube channel. My next most probable step will be addressing the transmission. I feel fortunate that a stock 904 would take a pounding for 5 years and still be going strong. Amazing, actually. I have purchased a 904 that's been built for drag racing from a guy that builds transmissions and had this one set up for a back up for his race vehicles. It's never been run since being built. He sold it to me for nickels on the dollar. I'm just weighing options on the converter.
 
Congrats! How much to load the converter is definitely the trick. It sounded like the converter is really tight or it is just how smooth you roll into it. Little free things that I have found that could help efficiency. I had a VERY slight flutter, turned out that the rotor sat high enough on the distributor that it would arc up to the terminal instead of horizontally. So the timing would be erratic just the slightest bit. You would see arc marks on the top of the terminal. Filed the rotor a bit so it sits lower. Flutter gone. I also used to have to run over 1/2 tank of fuel. Which because of the shape of an A body tank is more than 1/2 the capacity of the tank. IIRC it was like 12-13 gallons. Not cheap, but I put Holley hydra mat in the tank and now I run 2 gallons. 60 lbs of fuel weight out of the car. Wrong end of the car, but 60 lbs is 60 lbs
 
furrystump said:
Congrats! How much to load the converter is definitely the trick. It sounded like the converter is really tight or it is just how smooth you roll into it.
Click to expand...
You noticed (and nailed) the hardest part of driving a car with an open rear end. One of the trickiest parts of driving this car is the launch with the open rear end and a small tire. You are correct, it's a tight, stock, factory converter that came behind a 318. No preload, and the sudden flash-stall will break one tire loose, or in the very least hurt the 60 ft time. Too much preload, and it will break the tire loose. It is not a "set rpm" as I have no tach in the car yet, but strictly by feel on how much is "just right" so the car will launch without spinning getting the best 60 ft time the car can turn.
 
Last edited:
Same for me, spool, but very small tire. Good track less loading. Questionable track I load it and hold the throttle steady. Release the brake and as the nose just hints at dipping roll in. For me I never want to spin the first run. If I do it screws with my confidence for the whole day. Start peddling when I don’t need to, roll into it late, etc. I would rather leave some on the table the first run than spin.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top