increasing duster value

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Frostbite

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Iv been a very happy a body owner for a whole year already. I have a 73 318 duster i purchased for 3 grand. Iv felt everything that i have done to it has increased its value. Im now at the step of deciding to put 8 3/4 rear end in so it could handle a bigger engine in its future. The 7 1/4 spiders are already making some noise. I found a mopar parts place near me that has an a body 8 3/4 rear end they rebuilt, installed a new auburn limited slip and will put in any ring and pinion you want for 2300.00. I dont mind the price but i cant seem to comit since im dont have myself convinced it would add value to the car. What do you guys think?
 
No way I'd pay 2300 for it. It would add some value, but no where near what they are asking.
 
Your rear; gears $250, Posi- get a detroit for $600, Bearings, $100, new axles $250, labor, one day. $1500.
 
green1 said:
Your rear; gears $250, Posi- get a detroit for $600, Bearings, $100, new axles $250, labor, one day. $1500.
Click to expand...

Think Iam close to that getting everything but the SG and 489 case from Dr. Diff .That includes the a body 8 3/4 housing with everything.But that was like 5 years ago.
 
Yes it will add value. $2300 worth I doubt. That sounds really high. Is it complete with big bolt axles and brakes ?
 
A factory A body housing is the hard part.
I built one last winter and here is what it cost me.
$250 for a straight bare used rear.
$320 for Dr. Diff axles.
$50 for axle seals from Napa
$150 for everything new from Advanced auto for rear brakes, re-used the 7.14 backing plates.
I already had a 3.23 489 case sure grip, so add $350 to $500 for a good used set of gears in the ratio of your choice.
To bolt it in the car, new U-bolts and shock plates from Mancini $140
New driveshaft 3.5" diameter $275 included spicer u-joints, new ends, new tube re-used the front input yoke only.
This comes out to $1675 using used gears.
This is real world prices from a frugal person on a budget.
 
sireland67 said:
A factory A body housing is the hard part.
I built one last winter and here is what it cost me.
$250 for a straight bare used rear.
$320 for Dr. Diff axles.
$50 for axle seals from Napa
$150 for everything new from Advanced auto for rear brakes, re-used the 7.14 backing plates.
I already had a 3.23 489 case sure grip, so add $350 to $500 for a good used set of gears in the ratio of your choice.
To bolt it in the car, new U-bolts and shock plates from Mancini $140
New driveshaft 3.5" diameter $275 included spicer u-joints, new ends, new tube re-used the front input yoke only.
This comes out to $1675 using used gears.
This is real world prices from a frugal person on a budget.
Click to expand...

That is true but he might find a good used axle. I would not spend $2,300 either, heck might as well throw in another grand and get a Dana 60
 
There are other options out there. The 8 1/4 axle is a pretty stout unit and they can be found in a 73-76 A body. The 8 1/4 was used for many, many years! I found a SG diff in a 4wd dakota truck and swapped it in. Junkyard cheap lives!
I've also read of guys using an 8" FORD axle from a Maverick. They use the same 4.5 lug pattern as Mopar. I've also heard of people using an axle from a Ford Explorer or a Jeep Cherokee. Don't spend $2300 on a rear end for an 8 3/4" axle unless you really expect to run a motor capable of an honest 450 horsepower. You can spend less than $500 on any one of the 3 axles that I mentioned.
 
I think much of that is labor to remove and install. It is not a tough job for a couple novice guys. You could save alot buying a used unit, have it gone through and do the remove and installl yourself.
 
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