Input Shaft Seal Repair sleave

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Before you blow 40 bucks, stop by ANY "good" parts store (or bearing supplier) and investigate Chicago Rawhide or other brands of "Speedi sleeves" These come in all kinds of sizes, all you need do is either determine the shaft size with a caliper or from the bearing no. on the shaft. You'll need a properly sized piece of tube which will extend from the end of the shaft down to the shoulder on the sleeve. It needs to fit snugly enough to engage the flange on the sleeve, but not so snug as to damage the OD of the sleeve.

Here:

https://www.google.com/search?num=20&hl=en&newwindow=1&safe=off&site=&source=hp&q=c%2Fr++speedi+sleeves&oq=c%2Fr++speedi+sleeves&gs_l=hp.3..0i13.2157.6804.0.6983.23.21.2.0.0.0.191.2797.1j20.21.0.les%3B..0.0...1c.lbZWpsfriIY


Also do not discount a possible leak from either the bearing retainer OR THE BOLTS or the cluster shaft.
 
Thanks!
So, to install you would pull the bearing retainer and press this onto the shaft with the flanged end going on first till it bottoms out then re-install the bearing retainer?
I assume the other sources of the leak can be fixed with a sealer and plumber tape?

note: I have gear oil running down my clutch fork, so I think its coming from somwhere up top.
 
Take a good hard look at the play in the input shaft, I think that you will find the bearing is wore causing the input shaft to wobble.
With the input shaft moving around it wipes out the seal on the bearing retainer.
 
A front bearing that worn would be so noisy you could not stand to drive the thing. But that brings up a good point. The PILOT bushing may be hogged out allowing the shaft to wobble. Not a good situation.

The flange goes on the shaft first. Most the C/R ones I've seen are scored, so that if for some reason you need to remove the flange after installationg you can nip the outer edge and peel the flange right off. It shows you in the destructions that come with the sleeve.
 
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