Inst. panel grid board

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plymouth71

plymouth71

The Moomobile
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Jun 6, 2010
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London ky
I noticed that my fuel/temp gauges quit working.I replaced the voltage limiter and they worked sometimes,so i pulled the cluster and performed some tests and found that the grid was losing contact.Does anyone know what can be used to clean the grid?the grid looks to have to cracks or places in it,so I was going to try to clean the grid pathways to see if this fixes the problem,Thanks for any help or advise.
 
That "grid" your referring to is actually a primitive circuit board. Any cracks are equivalent to broken wires. What I would do is simply solder some jumper wires in to bridge any cracks. This is a simple procedure,but you need to use good control.
 
There is several issues for malfeasance that can occur

One is the pins where the harness connects, these can get loose, corroded or break. Solder them if you can.

The screws and copper board traces that grounds the boards to the casting can corrode, just gently clean them with an eraser or other abrasive, as will as the casting underneath

The copper traces, and attaching nuts that hold the gauge studs can corrode or get loose

The brass spring clips that connect the limiter into the pc boards are not connected other than "spring pressure." On my 67, I finally soldered the spring clips to the copper board.
 
After a more detailed look,I noticed that the circuit pathways were oxidized,I removed the board and cleaned it with 0*3 superfine steel wool,also cleaned pins with mild contact cleaner,re-installed and all gauges worked.Thank you 67dart 273 and Needsaresto for all your help and advise, you'all saved me alot of time and trouble.
 
plymouth71 said:
After a more detailed look,I noticed that the circuit pathways were oxidized,I removed the board and cleaned it with 0*3 superfine steel wool,also cleaned pins with mild contact cleaner,re-installed and all gauges worked.Thank you 67dart 273 and Needsaresto for all your help and advise, you'all saved me alot of time and trouble.
Click to expand...

I was going to offer you my extra one, but fixing the old one is always better! Glad you got it going.
 
Mopar to ya said:
I was going to offer you my extra one, but fixing the old one is always better! Glad you got it going.
Click to expand...
Thanks,I just hope that i fixed the real problem,if there is one thing i have learned while working on this old mopar,when you think you have fixed a problem-think again!!I am looking for the original am radio faceplate,do you,or do you know of anybody who has one they might want to part with?
 
plymouth71 said:
Thanks,I just hope that i fixed the real problem,if there is one thing i have learned while working on this old mopar,when you think you have fixed a problem-think again!!I am looking for the original am radio faceplate,do you,or do you know of anybody who has one they might want to part with?
Click to expand...

I just bought one from a guy here on FABO. They are around. Use the search function is classifieds. Ebay is an option as well.
 
Now im wondering if there is a product that would effectively seal the surface of the circuit board once it's clean.

Preferably something that doesnt short it out and/or cause a fire.
 
These ARE coated "where they can be" I don't think that's where the problem lies

First they are using the board for an actual CONTACT IE the spring contacts on the bulb sockets as well as the ground screws and gauge studs.

But they DID last what, 20 years? I don't think Ma ever had a plan that "we" would come along and try to run them some more!!
 
Very true,very true. My printed board still works and it's 41 yr's old!

Beat THAT toyota...
 
And for any pin/plug connections there is di-eletric grease.
 
Mopar to ya said:
I was going to offer you my extra one, but fixing the old one is always better! Glad you got it going.
Click to expand...
How much was you wanting for your extra board?I may need one yet,temp gauge works good,but the fuel gauge still hit/miss,no voltage at the tank sending unit,but i do have cont.from the gauge to the sender,so i may still have some issues with the board.
 
You could always buy new circuit boards , that's what I did , kept and cleaned up the old one for use as a spare . New board is well built , should last another 40 years
 
jerry6 said:
You could always buy new circuit boards , that's what I did , kept and cleaned up the old one for use as a spare . New board is well built , should last another 40 years
Click to expand...
Where did you get your board?What was the cost?
 
that was for rallye dash 2 sections , regular therre are 2 , one is 2 sections as well,10.00 more one is one section 20.00 cheaper . Besides it is a much better board than stock , sure it will last a lot longer .

How many different dashes went in these A bodies ?? 1976 is a different circuit board again .
http://mrheaterbox.com/premiumdashdecals.com/dash_circuit_boards.htm

2 section 61-71 dart
Dart%20Both%20Front.JPG


1 section 67 -75 dart

67-77%20A%20body%20Valiant%20NON%20rallye%20front.JPG
 
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