Waco Demon
Well-Known Member
I'm installing gear vender over drive looking for pics for wiring install I'm putting it in a 1972 Demon thank you Harold
Installing a Gear Vender behind a 903
- Thread starter Waco Demon
- Start date
-
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 24,952
- Reaction score
- 12,302
No instructions?
Waco Demon
Well-Known Member
looking to see how other set up there switches don't want to put my ingame switch on the floor that is where dimmer switch is
Waco Demon
Well-Known Member
looking to see how others set up there switches don't want to put my in gage switch on the floor that is where my dimmer switch is
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
If you plan on splitting gears, you need to put it in the floor, but not too close to your dimmer switch. You'll be steering with your left hand, shifting with your right hand, mashing the gas with your right foot......so that leaves one foot to operate the switch! 
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 24,952
- Reaction score
- 12,302
The ECU that GV supplys, I think is somehow electrically damped cuz it is slow and soft shifting. It is waaaaay too slow shifting for anything but what it was designed for.
When I fed the GVOD shift solenoid battery voltage directly from a relay, signaled by a line-loc switch mounted on the shifter, then it shifted sorta like lightning, once it made up it's mind to shift.And hard, I'll tell you does it shift hard. I mean;hard. But there was still a delay from the time I commanded the shift, to when it actually happened. I'll guess around a quarter second, so watch you don't hit the rev-limiter during the shift,lol.
Also; you are not supposed to backshift thru the device, so it is supposed to be disengaged before downshifting.
And also;this is most important;
If the unit is accidentally left engaged, and you begin to move in reverse.... that will cost you within about a foot or less, a rebuild plus shipping, both ways. So you gotta wire it somehow thru the reverse switch so this cannot happen. You will be very sad the first time it happens, and incredibly irate the second time.Especially if, like me, you installed a big red lite on the dash to tell you when the unit is engaged!
I don't know if I would bother splitting gears in the 2.45-1.45-1.00 Torque-Flites, unless for racing and you are geared just right.
Otherwise , the 2od to direct shift is just too close together. It is just 660rpm drop from 5500, 330 at 2750.
Here are the specs
2.45-1.91-1.45-1.13-1.00-.78od; GV in bold
with splits of .78-.76-.78-.88-.78od, the 2od to direct in bold
On the otherhand, if you geared your car to redline at 60 in second gear, well that could be the fast way there, but it would require 5.13s or close to it.
Next best would be to redline in first over with 4.10@6130 or 3.91s@5880, or 3.73s@5580, or 3.55s at 5310 If you do this, you won't be needing no stinking wide-LSA cam
3.73s would get you 65=2350@ zero-slip, so you could run about any street cam with that.
But you wouldn't want to run 3.23s for 65=2030 with anything bigger than about 223*@.050, cuz the fuel-mileage will begin to suck.
When I fed the GVOD shift solenoid battery voltage directly from a relay, signaled by a line-loc switch mounted on the shifter, then it shifted sorta like lightning, once it made up it's mind to shift.And hard, I'll tell you does it shift hard. I mean;hard. But there was still a delay from the time I commanded the shift, to when it actually happened. I'll guess around a quarter second, so watch you don't hit the rev-limiter during the shift,lol.
Also; you are not supposed to backshift thru the device, so it is supposed to be disengaged before downshifting.
And also;this is most important;
If the unit is accidentally left engaged, and you begin to move in reverse.... that will cost you within about a foot or less, a rebuild plus shipping, both ways. So you gotta wire it somehow thru the reverse switch so this cannot happen. You will be very sad the first time it happens, and incredibly irate the second time.Especially if, like me, you installed a big red lite on the dash to tell you when the unit is engaged!
I don't know if I would bother splitting gears in the 2.45-1.45-1.00 Torque-Flites, unless for racing and you are geared just right.
Otherwise , the 2od to direct shift is just too close together. It is just 660rpm drop from 5500, 330 at 2750.
Here are the specs
2.45-1.91-1.45-1.13-1.00-.78od; GV in bold
with splits of .78-.76-.78-.88-.78od, the 2od to direct in bold
On the otherhand, if you geared your car to redline at 60 in second gear, well that could be the fast way there, but it would require 5.13s or close to it.
Next best would be to redline in first over with 4.10@6130 or 3.91s@5880, or 3.73s@5580, or 3.55s at 5310 If you do this, you won't be needing no stinking wide-LSA cam
3.73s would get you 65=2350@ zero-slip, so you could run about any street cam with that.
But you wouldn't want to run 3.23s for 65=2030 with anything bigger than about 223*@.050, cuz the fuel-mileage will begin to suck.
Last edited:
-
