Installing a painless wiring system

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cuda guy

cuda guy

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Hi guys and gals

I have 1968 baracuda that was a race car 440 727 fender well headers no front or rear lighting system or wipers and I am trying to get it back on the street. I have spent the past few days looking at the wiring and the butcher job that was done. Im thinking about pulling all he bad stuff out and starting fresh with a painless wiring system. My question is has anyone done this and is this the best way to go.
 
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I don't think anybody else has a 1668 Baracuda to help you out.
 
Painless isn't so painless...

There are other providers out there that appear to make a better product.
 
There are things I don't like about several of these aftermarket harnesses. I've forgotten what I have/ had, I started by buying an incomplete / used Painless and partially rewiring the car before it was painted. The current "to be" harness (EZ wire) is different but very similar and the fuse panel is nearly an exact dupe of Painless. BUT I DID NOT LIKE how some of it was wired........don't remember specifics, there were a few things that were "hot" with ignition, that should have been on accessory or vice versa. Anyhow, I pulled every connector out of the fuse panel, and redid / re-bussed them to suit what I wanted.

Where it will be..........bought two Jeep fuse/ relay panels, took them apart (modular) and put relays / fuses where I wanted them, this is the left kick panel. The vent box will be replaced by a chopped down Mustang vent, which has a butterfly up high. You can just see it up in the corner

The kick panel will cover the Holley HP

a2ufdk.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
There are things I don't like about several of these aftermarket harnesses. I've forgotten what I have/ had, I started by buying an incomplete / used Painless and partially rewiring the car before it was painted. The current "to be" harness (EZ wire) is different but very similar and the fuse panel is nearly an exact dupe of Painless. BUT I DID NOT LIKE how some of it was wired........don't remember specifics, there were a few things that were "hot" with ignition, that should have been on accessory or vice versa. Anyhow, I pulled every connector out of the fuse panel, and redid / re-bussed them to suit what I wanted.

Where it will be..........bought two Jeep fuse/ relay panels, took them apart (modular) and put relays / fuses where I wanted them, this is the left kick panel. The vent box will be replaced by a chopped down Mustang vent, which has a butterfly up high. You can just see it up in the corner

The kick panel will cover the Holley HP

View attachment 1715081019
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I used an EZ complete wiring kit. It had chevy connectors and plug ins for everything, just had to change them over, no complaints other than that. Sean at EZ was very helpful for advise. I cut my drivers side vent box and bent it forward in the middle to make room for the fuse panel.
 
Got the same problem
Already bought the harness but haven't installed yet.

You basically got to ditch how the factory did it and come up with your plan to hook up the cars electrical to the new harness.

I also bought an 6 relay box for under the hood for lights, fan etc...
 
I'm curious to about wiring kits too mine is out of control.its a 73 duster looks like a duster went in and twisted around in there lol.the ez kit is less then 200 is it worth a try?sorry for asking in your post.
 
mopardart44067 said:
I'm curious to about wiring kits too mine is out of control.its a 73 duster looks like a duster went in and twisted around in there lol.the ez kit is less then 200 is it worth a try?sorry for asking in your post.
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Probably just as good as any other, unless u can buy one mopar specific. If so I`d do that if $ isn`t a problem.
 
mopardart44067 said:
I'm curious to about wiring kits too mine is out of control.its a 73 duster looks like a duster went in and twisted around in there lol.the ez kit is less then 200 is it worth a try?sorry for asking in your post.
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The "problem" is that you have to gut the main harness out, fuse box and all, to use the EZ (or any other similar) system. And you'll want to keep your connectors and what-not as many of them are unique and not included in a non-specific kit. It's also time consuming - a direct replacement kit will probably go in in half the time.. an EZ type kit takes a considerable time commitment, even more so if you've never done something like this. So while they are well designed, modern and relatively inexpensive, they are not "plug and play" like a direct replacement kit would be. So it's a matter of time vs. money - if you have the time and want to save some $$ - go EZ. If you have the $$ and are pressed for time - the direct replacement is the way to go.
And, last but not least, no matter which method you choose - you're a member here, TONS of amazing knowledge and helpful people - if ya get stuck, log on and ask away! :thumbsup:
 
ScampMike said:
The "problem" is that you have to gut the main harness out, fuse box and all, to use the EZ (or any other similar) system. And you'll want to keep your connectors and what-not as many of them are unique and not included in a non-specific kit.
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Some good points but there are only a few connectors you cannot rebuild fairly easily, that is, obtain new terminals. All of the connectors with the flat blade terminals are "Packard 56" and are easily available.

Connectors that are trouble are the column TS switch and the column ignition switch, as well as the dash connector. If the dash cluster pins can be saved, you could resolder those harness ends to the new wire.

The TS switch and column ignition, probably the best way is to use a different, more available connector. In my opinion, the TS connector on my 67 is a VERY poor design.

I WOULD ELIMINATE THE BULKHEAD connector if at all possible. It is very easy to cut out a metal plate which will snap in there with the original gasket/ hardware clips, punch a hole and use a big grommet

There are many brands besides Painless, and there are "universal" "hot rod" harnesses with stuff like 9 and 11 circuits that are WAY cheaper than even the EZ wire.

ALSO if your original harness isn't too bad, you could buy "just a fuse panel" and replace the old one, depending
 
I used an American auto wire highway 22 key for my dart a few years and. Very high quality kit and a lot more complete then a lot of the cheaper ones out there.

American auto wire now has a classic update kit for a few mopars. Not cheap but a damn nice kit.

Careful of the cheap kits. Many times ya get what you pay for. When I did my dart I rewired all the way to each light socket. To me that's the proper way to do it. None of that cutting off an old plug and reusing it to plug into old lighting wires.
 
cuda guy said:
Hi guys and gals

I have 1968 baracuda that was a race car 440 727 fender well headers no front or rear lighting system or wipers and I am trying to get it back on the street. I have spent the past few days looking at the wiring and the butcher job that was done. Im thinking about pulling all he bad stuff out and starting fresh with a painless wiring system. My question is has anyone done this and is this the best way to go.
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I've used Painless and I wasn't terribly pleased with it. My last 2 cars and my Dart (will be) are wired with Ron Francis kits , good quality stuff.
 
In an attempt to not start a whole new thread on an age old topic, I’m thinking about swapping over to a Painless kit as well. My current harness isn’t BAD, but seen a couple reports about issues with bulkhead connector, and particular circuits causing some pretty serious problems.

Question being, is this a “real” and “common” problem, one that SHOULD be addressed if and when you have the car stripped down?
 
There are ways to deal with the bulkhead, without totally trashing the wiring, IF the original is in otherwise fair shape. member "Crackedback" on here sells a bypass cable. Read the MAD article for insight, even if you don't do their version

Catalog

Probably the biggest issues with these girls in no particular order is:

1...High current for electrical loads and battery charge going through the bulkhead ammeter wires. If you research "police / taxi/ fleet" wiring which was used for 65A optional alternators, Mopar KNEW about this issue. This involves a factory? dealer? modification which runs the ammeter wires through individual grommets in the firewall

2....head light switch really should have relays

3.....Load and wear and tear in the ignition switch and bulkhead causes voltage drop in that circuit also related to drop in the ammeter wire terminals (bulkhead) One way is to use ignition feed in the engine bay to trigger a relay and feed underhood ignition circuit loads off that relay

4....When you start adding high output alternators, electric fan systems, EFI, large stereo systems, etc, the problem becomes "immediately" apparent.
 
67Dart273 said:
There are ways to deal with the bulkhead, without totally trashing the wiring, IF the original is in otherwise fair shape. member "Crackedback" on here sells a bypass cable. Read the MAD article for insight, even if you don't do their version

Catalog

Probably the biggest issues with these girls in no particular order is:

1...High current for electrical loads and battery charge going through the bulkhead ammeter wires. If you research "police / taxi/ fleet" wiring which was used for 65A optional alternators, Mopar KNEW about this issue. This involves a factory? dealer? modification which runs the ammeter wires through individual grommets in the firewall

2....head light switch really should have relays

3.....Load and wear and tear in the ignition switch and bulkhead causes voltage drop in that circuit also related to drop in the ammeter wire terminals (bulkhead) One way is to use ignition feed in the engine bay to trigger a relay and feed underhood ignition circuit loads off that relay

4....When you start adding high output alternators, electric fan systems, EFI, large stereo systems, etc, the problem becomes "immediately" apparent.
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So, while I am NOT A FAN of creating extra work, I pretty much fit any one of the scenarios you have (or the article for that matter) have mentioned. My current fuse panel is so/so not bad, but ugh. And, of course mine is a 74. Translation:One year only seatbelt interlock. And the seatbelt module does look a little questionable. So, now I’m thinking, ditch it all and just rewire? Get ahead of the nightmare coming down the road? At the stage the car currently is at, doing it really is no big deal. It just come down to the $ of the kit. But too, I don’t want to creat a bunch of extra work.

But retrospect has a way of improving ones vision. Would be very disheartening to say “ya, I know, I knew about this and decided to just not worry about it.”
 
67Dart273 said:
The seatbelt module is quite easy. Unplug it. Then get under the hood and locate the reset box, has a big red button. On the 74 Scamp I just bought it is over on the driver side fender apron. Find the two "yellowish" wires which are the leads to the starter relay and permanently jumper them

Info on the system:

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Browse MTSC by Model Year - 1974

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/315.pdf

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I thought I read somewhere the controller/module could not be discarded because of the additional circuits it controlled. I read about bypassing the reset, but you can just unplug and abandon the module under the dash?
 
I'm pretty sure that is right. I am getting old and forgetful, I'm 70 LOL. If you don't want to risk it unplug all the seat switch connectors and do the splice in the yellow wires under the hood
 
Unfortunately I used the cheapest Painless kit about $200 IIRC which was not Mopar oriented besides I didn't have a radio or heater.. Was forced to use my brothers electronic/electrical degree skills and watched him do it. For sure he wasn't thrilled with it

IMG_1655.JPG
 
The kit I was looking at was A Painless, Mopar specific 21 circuit, #10127. I guess the other thing was I came across someone who bought one and sold the car ahead of using it. So now he is saying to get it out of his garage for a a couple hundred less than he paid. So really, again if I was going to do it, now is the time. But the question is still (for me), is it really necessary...
 
You really have to just look at the wiring situation. Depending on where the car has been, the connectors (and switches) may have suffered more than less corrosion, a humid area. Mine at the time was in fair condition, except for the bulkhead connector. It needed work.

What kind of money are you looking at for Painless? There "might be" a lot of stuff in the kit you cannot use, such as GM style connectors. Also, I did not like how my fuse panel was configured, as some circuits are "jumpered" to others. I've forgotten, now what all. This kit had power window circuits which I repurposed for something else. I actually removed some of the fuse panel terminals and either moved or "unjumpered" them (rejumpered?) to get what I wanted, I powered at all times, switch from accessory, or on only in "run." This will be supplied with relays, the key will only be switching relay coils
 
provided the guy with the harness for sale didn't buy one of the overpriced harnesses like a yearone that i think runs up to about 1k then i say go ahead and buy it if it doesn't create a money issue for you. Maybe you can get it for 200.00? I think that would be a deal. I installed the ron francis xp68. Connectors are gm but there's really only a couple of places that comes into play most notably the steering column and you need to keep your connectors for wipers. I decided to go ahead and replace everything with new in an effort to eliminate future issues with old wiring and connections. Knock on wood i will not have any electrical issues for a long time. I had never rewired a car before and had it finished after a a weekend of long hours followed by a week working on it for a couple hours a day. IMHO connectors alone in a few places does not justify paying upwards of 500.00 more for another harness. I think ron francis has added more mopar specific harnesses, but almost all these aftermarkets are going to have some gm components (headlight switch) and connector. It's not IF you will have electrical issues it's WHEN. I also deleted the bulkhead connections...put a plate over the hole and passed through a grommet. updating the wiring was my first priority since i will keep my vehicle for many years for my kids.
 
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