installing ARP main studs

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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How is this suppose to happen? do i turn the studs as far as possible by hand? What happens if they all dont go down the same amount?
 
I would imagine you have to torque them, but It is also recommended that you line hone the block with the studs installed. Have you planned on that??
 
That is really something the machine shop should do. It would be best if you took your crank and main bearings to a shop, have them align hone it, and then get your main clearances where they should be. The ARP Main Studs will change the "crush" on the bearings so line honing is required to do it right. And take your oil pump over there too because you either have to run a bolt on the rear main that is under the pump or have them clearance the pump, not use a washer, and trim the stud and nut down some. Here is what my shop did with my rear main/oil pump:

OilPumpOnCap1.jpg
 
I actually had the block lined honed before...does that Mean that I should stick with just bolts?
 
If it was lined hone with the bolts stick with the bolts unless you want to have it line honed again. Its good you are asking these questions.
 
What if I used the ARPs but torqued them to stock specs? That whay I dont wrap the mains or anything? then not needing a new line hone

If not can I use the Main bolts I have or should I buy some Grade 8's? or what?
 
Just going to the stock Bolts. Thanks guys Merry Christmas!!!
 
if you have the studs just tighten them dry with sum plastigauge and see where your at you may still be able to use the studs. but personally id wait for a real motor for studs not just a rebuild. 400+hp for studs....

oh ya arp says only to mildly tighten the studs if you tighten to 70+ you may crack the block. id say 20 to 30lb max fpt. with either arp lube or lock tite.
 
Besure to run a thread tap down the bolt holes prior to installing studs. This removes any old crud and burrs that will stop stud from going all the way in easily. I use a thin coating of light 0-30 mobil 1 on threads and only turn the studs down snug as if they were hand tight. I never use lock tight on any head bolt, rod bolt or main stud or bolt. Haven't had one fail yet. I've been doing it for 30 years.
 
As just stated, hand tight only. Don't install them at all unless you brought the studs to the machinist and had the crank align honed.
 
ramcharger said:
As just stated, hand tight only. Don't install them at all unless you brought the studs to the machinist and had the crank align honed.
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I know you meant main saddles.

Again as most everyone said, clean the threads real good, lightly oil the studs and install in the block HAND TIGHT then torque the nuts to the required spec.

'Always align hone with the studs that are going to be used'.
Must always align hone to use studs.

Regular old stock main bolts will work fine for what you are doing, I have my original main bolts in my 450+hp 340 right now, and I sleep great at night.

Merry Christmas to you all!
 
ya This motor will be runing the same power as yours around 450-500
 
abodyhotrod said:
if you have the studs just tighten them dry with sum plastigauge and see where your at you may still be able to use the studs. but personally id wait for a real motor for studs not just a rebuild. 400+hp for studs....

oh ya arp says only to mildly tighten the studs if you tighten to 70+ you may crack the block. id say 20 to 30lb max fpt. with either arp lube or lock tite.
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what do you guys think? Should I try them with a plastigauge and see if I really need to have them lined honed over?
 
74Burntorange said:
what do you guys think? Should I try them with a plastigauge and see if I really need to have them lined honed over?
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I know a couple guys who had their engines align honed with the bolts only to later install studs,they had them checked with a dial bore guage after installing the main studs and got away with it-I wouldnt use anything but a quality boreguage though.I would just have the machinist check it and if its a no-go then use the bolts.
 
well some of my motor is installed already, like cam and cam bearings and freeze plugs
 
74Burntorange said:
well some of my motor is installed already, like cam and cam bearings and freeze plugs
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That shouldnt affect them-as long as you can get it loaded.My machinist would just walk out and check it in the back of a truck ect. as long as the engine is accessable and the mains are torqued-but thats if you want to hassle with it since as already said they arent really needed.
 
A couple notes reading this... Studs require the mains to be honed. No exceptions. The only reasons someone "got away with it" is they didnt really look, or they don't have the tools to truly check, or they didnt torque the sutds properly. Also, the studs get torqued to ARPs specs, and only using their lube or SAE 30Wt oil... and the final value is very different for each lubricant. You should not use locktite on connecting rod bolts, head bolts, or main fasteners. You do not machine anything on a block with any hardware or cam bearings in place. Because the operations shed metal particles and abrasive particles and you have to able to reach them and remove them.
 
moper said:
A couple notes reading this... Studs require the mains to be honed. No exceptions. The only reasons someone "got away with it" is they didnt really look, or they don't have the tools to truly check, or they didnt torque the sutds properly.
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Sorry moper,if there one thing thats true with cars its theres an exception in every situation.A machinist of many years who also successfully built and raced circle track knows how to correctly measure the main line,studs provide more clamping force but do not neccesarily distort the cap or disturb the alignment in every case,I know youve assembled/built engines but do you actually do the machine work?,this guys been at it for a long time and for that matter Ive heard a couple others over the years who had the same situation and it worked for them with different machinists.
 
well since I used the stock bolts to line hone it, can I go to the ARP main BOLTS?
 
lead, I used to stand next to the guy, and I measure everything myself now regardless. The effects of more clamping force on it means it will distort. I've never, ever, seen ANY engine of any makle not need mains honed. That's only over 20 years of hands on experience with them. Chevy 2 and 4 bolt.. Chevey 292 I6s, small and big block Fords, even Studebakers which are renowned for very high nickel blocks. Every Mopar I've put them in had shadows when the stones first hit them. They define high and low spots. Now the work is done on CNC mills, but same same. I have had a few where the parting lines were barely touched.. but the vertical axis was out by over .001". If the stock spec is used for the torque value as opposed to the ARP spec, maybe one could expect to not see anything. Maybe that's why? But if that's the case, the fastener is not properly stretched. Also, it takes 3-4 cycles to reach the full preload. Like connecting rod bolts, they need to be cycled a few times before honing to be fully stretched. There are many shops the dont find issues with one thing or another, and I'm sure others question stuff I let go. Whatever works I guess. I'll agree to disagree..lol
 
moper said:
lead, I used to stand next to the guy, and I measure everything myself now regardless. The effects of more clamping force on it means it will distort. I've never, ever, seen ANY engine of any makle not need mains honed. That's only over 20 years of hands on experience with them. Chevy 2 and 4 bolt.. Chevey 292 I6s, small and big block Fords, even Studebakers which are renowned for very high nickel blocks. Every Mopar I've put them in had shadows when the stones first hit them. They define high and low spots. Now the work is done on CNC mills, but same same. I have had a few where the parting lines were barely touched.. but the vertical axis was out by over .001". If the stock spec is used for the torque value as opposed to the ARP spec, maybe one could expect to not see anything. Maybe that's why? But if that's the case, the fastener is not properly stretched. Also, it takes 3-4 cycles to reach the full preload. Like connecting rod bolts, they need to be cycled a few times before honing to be fully stretched. There are many shops the dont find issues with one thing or another, and I'm sure others question stuff I let go. Whatever works I guess. I'll agree to disagree..lol
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Thats cool,no disrespect intended with the question I asked either,your statement inadvertantly brought his abilities into question and this is a guy who has designed,machined and ran thousands of engines form stock to 2,500 h.p..As far as torque values I cannot say for sure but he may have used a higher torque spec with the bolts (aftermarket) when align honing,I know he is very picky with cap alignment ect.I never meant to make an argument,only a couple times I have heard of it working out but you never know until you try.
 
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