Instrument gremlins.

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nm9stheham said:
Well if the ignition switch is new, then that is probably not it. That issue would be due to a worn internal contact, which sounds unlikely in your car's case.

As for the heater blower being weak, there is one more very likely spot and it needs checking out. The power for the blower comes from its fuse a first runs through some electrical contacts built into the heat selection control where you select cool/heat/defrost (which is not separately shown on the mymopar diagrams). This is used to cut off power to the blower when the control is OFF. The contacts are integrated with the vacuum selector, and the contacts in this switch get corroded and hot and will melt the pastic body of that control. So you need to get the heat control out and look at this. This particular problem is very common. There are 2 wiring connections to the back of this switch and you can temporarily jumper them together and see if the blower speeds up.
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I changed the blinker relay, and found the fuse blown again, so I changed it. It's 22 degrees apparent by the ice ) I half-*** warm up the engine, and than checked the side that I know works. It's okay. Than I checked the left side, and you can hear mt super load fuel pump take a dive as the fuse for the blinkers pops again. ( the computer a steering column wires are on the floor until I know they're okay for final install. )

[ame]http://youtu.be/rBEfJN3_rk0[/ame]
 
Hmmm, Its gotta be shorting out somewhere.
I gotta admit though electrical gremlin are a beast that is not fun to tackle. Just think they get bigger and badder as the cars get newer.

You stated earlier that when you turned on the driver side blinkers it blinked really fast. That is an indicator of low resistance, there is too much power going into the relay. (For example people who switch to LED bulbs typically have this problem, since LED's have about 80% less resistance than standard incandescent light bulbs)

A dim light with really slow blinking (like one blink every 2 or more seconds) will indicate a very high resistance (or even weak power).

There are just soo many variables, I alway have my trusty multimeter with me when I do electrical work because a lot of times "you just don't know".
 
The turn switches are a known point of failure; the contact bits can break off and float around inside the switch assembly, and fail to make contact or make unwanted contact. They are available new; I would seriously look at just changing out the turn switch at this point.
 
nm9stheham said:
The turn switches are a known point of failure; the contact bits can break off and float around inside the switch assembly, and fail to make contact or make unwanted contact. They are available new; I would seriously look at just changing out the turn switch at this point.
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One thing I failed to mention, and not on purpose, is the car had issues with that light when I bought it, before I did any work ( I forgot). Since than, as we already stated, the steering column, and everything inside it has been purchase from Norm's speed shop, and replaced. So everything should be new. Yet it still has the same problem. (So Back to I forgot.) The socket looks disgusting. Could it be the problem ? I know these are hard things to figure out over the computer.
 

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I'm starting a new thread, because my lack of communication skills really has this one going in 20 directions at once. Thanks so much. The new thread will be titled " Is this my short ?" and I'll keep it brief, and to the facts. Again sorry for wasting your time with this confusion.
 
You can isolate eliminate that connection by tracing the wires back to the bulkhead connector and disconnecting that wire at the bulkhead connection.

Go here (if you have not done so already): http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=28
and download your car's wiring diagram so you can have it for reference to find that wire and connection. If this does not do it, then you can progressively disconnect wires that go to the front and rear turn signals one step at a time 'til it stops or 'til all the wires are disconnected and you are left with the directional switch.

Visual inspections would also be a good idea. And it is good this is a fused circuit; you can 'fail test' it over and over.

No apologies needed to me! With not being there, it just takes a while to get all the info regurgitated.....
 
So it turnout to be the ratty light socket, and that fixed everything.
I started this thread writng about the instrument cluster, and gauges. I found a set of gauges at Summit Racing. Autogage ATM - 2391. They're 1.5" electrical gauges, with sending units. They're just a very basic - temp, volt, oil pressure set. That I think can probably be grafted into the stock dash, without having to worry whether the headlight switch will impede my attemps, and they're cheap. So I can remove the ammeter, and temp gauge that came with the Plymouth, but keep the dash panel. That's good enough for me.
 

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