Intake manifold oil leak-Front

[oldkoot]

Well it looks like the front intake seal is leaking on the passengers side and of course it under the A/C compressor so it's difficult to see. I've ordered Fel-Pro MS90009 gasket set (67 273 4V) which I believe contains the steel intake to head gaskets. So before I start there are a few questions-Install the front/rear seals from the kit or use silcone/right stuff and forget the end seals, do the side gaskets go in dry or silicone around the ports, my guess is all intake bolts should have thread sealer.I don't have a shop manual so I'm looking for the torque and pattern to follow, stock steel intake manifold. If it was a Chevy I could do it in my sleep but first time pulley an intake from a Mopar. Anything else I need to watch for??
Thanks,
Don

 

[Max340]

Side gaskets go in dry, a bead of RTV on the front and back edges, and you're good to go. Intake bolts go down to 35 ftlbs according to 1973 Dodge FSM. Pattern is a side to side from the center to the front an back, going evenly.

 

[1969GTS]

I Just went through this. Don't use the cork gaskets throw them away. I used a good sized bead of "the right stuff" on the front and rear with a little extra in the corners. I also used it around the coolant cross overs on booth sids of the gasket but left the rest of the gasket dry. No issues so far.

 

[340sFastback]

Good advice above. Pay attention to the bead you lay on the front, especially on the passenger's side. It sweeps toward the back so make sure the bead does the same. I had to learn the hard way. I always like to clean the surfaces with paper towels and Brake Parts Cleaner to get them oil free. Another good thing to do is lay side gaskets in place and lay intake on the engine. Look at the gap on the front to size up how thick a bead you should lay. Then take off and apply nice thick uniform bead that goes up the sides some.

 

[ramcharger]

The "right stuff" works great for me. Over a 1k miles on my last build and zero leaks. Dummy up the manifold and run a marker along the front of the manifold to give you a better idea of where the sealant needs to be applied.

For those who don't know, some intake manifold aren't drilled for the locating pin on the china walls so that needs to be removed. When that pin is removed, the factory style end seals will not work as the seal will squish out. Plus, many of us have decked the block and heads which changes the factory clearances. Just use sealant.

 

[dodgetkboy78]

DAna Victor gasket kits come with a squishy weatherstrip type material from the front and back gaskets, love them!

 

[crackedback]

Here's a neat trick.

Place the intake on the engine dry, scribe a line with a sharpie along the front and rear surfaces between the heads. That gives you the outermost edge of the sealing surface. You can then look at the bottom of the intake to figure out how wide the bead can be. Saves on waste and wiping up afterwards.

 

[RedFish]

There is only one acceptable excuse for not having service manual,
"My mechanic has one"
If you're gonna work on it yourself.... enough said

 

[oldkoot]

I appreciate all the tips, will replace the gaskets within the next week.

 

[wigsplitter74]

On the intake to head gaskets you can use some of that copper spray gasket to help seal really good, I've done it with and without and had no problems.