Intake Manifold Options 340

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Go with an RPM or Air-Gap.
Weight savings, plus top performance.
Whats not to like ?
 
mopowers said:
I think Rob brought up gasket matching the performer because the OP already HAS that intake. So, it would essentially be free vs. dropping $300+ on a new intake.
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Gasket matching a Performer wouldn't come close to the performance of a RPM/Air-Gap. You have to consider the entire runner cross-section, contours and overall height. Gasket matching may help flow a little, but in this case it would essentially be like taking a straw and putting a funnel on the end of it. You still have the bottleneck of the straw.

The chart I posted shows gains from 3,400 & up throughout the range in HP and torque, not just peak. That will be felt in the seat as well as on time slips. Off-idle may need extra tuning, but that's where a stick is more forgiving than an auto.
 
I agree. Port as deep as possible.
In a Mopar Mag article they ran the ported TorkerII. It was what it was and it would have been great to have had a few words and pictures of the mod.

But it was what it was and it was stated so.
 
mopowers said:
I think Rob brought up gasket matching the performer because the OP already HAS that intake. So, it would essentially be free vs. dropping $300+ on a new intake.
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Yes, and that's one way to appraoch it. I just like torque and hate to give any of it up. 17 ft lbs is very noticable and helpful in a short stroke motor. But if you don't mind or don't have the cash, use what you have, though the op did ask.
 
The magazine engine is only 100+hp stronger than the op's engine. Since apples and oranges have been mentioned. :realcrazy:

And yes, a little sweat makes up for the better intake and actually makes for a stealthier combo. Look a POS performer... that has some bite. The performer intake is not as bad as some of the people like to say it is, especially on the OP's mill. The port size deal is the biggest red herring in the SB mopar universe. BTDT seen the changes and it's not that big for the $300 outlay vs a little work.

It's only money.
 
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Johnny Dart said:
Go with an RPM or Air-Gap.
Weight savings, plus top performance.
Whats not to like ?
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The extra cost of the rpm which is what these days at summit racing vs. an easy to modify inexpensively done intake he has now.

Is the price of the intake worth the performance gain and/or the eye candy appeal?

How did Crackedback say it, pick your parts, spend your money.
 
rumblefish360 said:
The extra cost of the rpm which is what these days at summit racing vs. an easy to modify inexpensively done intake he has now.

Is the price of the intake worth the performance gain and/or the eye candy appeal?

How did Crackedback say it, pick your parts, spend your money.
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It always amazes me how people will spend a **** ton of money to rebuild an engine with speed parts, only to cheap out at the end just to save money. Yes, to me the extra expense of the proper part, or intake "IS" worth the money.

How do most say it ? Horsepower ain't cheap.
 
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I didn't want my motor to be a crazy build. Nor did I want the need to twist it at 7k. This engine has spun a couple rod bearings in its life. So I rather keep it around 6k. Eventually I will install some Eddie heads. In the mean time I was looking for 400 hp on the crank.

This has been a father/daughter rebuild so it has been a lot of fun. The car has not been on the road since 1989 when I drove it in high school. So there is a lot of work to do.
 
340swinger4spd said:
I didn't want my motor to be a crazy build. Nor did I want the need to twist it at 7k. This engine has spun a couple rod bearings in its life. So I rather keep it around 6k. Eventually I will install some Eddie heads. In the mean time I was looking for 400 hp on the crank.

This has been a father/daughter rebuild so it has been a lot of fun. The car has not been on the road since 1989 when I drove it in high school. So there is a lot of work to do.
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Johnny Dart said:
It always amazes me how people will spend a **** ton of money to rebuild an engine with speed parts, only to cheap out at the end just to save money. Yes, to me the extra expense of the proper part, or intake "IS" worth the money.

How do most say it ? Horsepower ain't cheap.
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And once again the original poster states the build purposes and perimeters yet to be ignored again and scoffed at. Johnny Dart, sorry "WE" all don't have YOUR money to mimic the handling of problems like the goverment does. The goverment says, "OH! Is this a roblem? Just just throw bags of money at it!"
IS he cheaping out or just ready to use what he has on hand?
While more power is allways great, the extra money involved may be tight. And for how much more power?
I would also allways like to use the best parts possible. But possible isn't always an available item. Perhaps you can throw some money at 340swinger4spd to help the Father/Daughter project along since spending isn't an issue with you. LMAO! ;)
 
Johnny Dart said:
It always amazes me how people will spend a **** ton of money to rebuild an engine with speed parts, only to cheap out at the end just to save money. Yes, to me the extra expense of the proper part, or intake "IS" worth the money.

How do most say it ? Horsepower ain't cheap
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I am curious.... was this response directed at me? The whole topic was about upgrading from intake I already had. And I question your therory. Yes build the internals to best the budget allows but if funds are tight an intake can be easily swapped at a later date. So what's the big deal if you don't get "everything" at the same time? Besides not every build is about maximum hp. But I do want the lower end ready if I wanted a lot of power.
 
Stock square bore or spread bore cast iron intake out perform the performer. The LD340 is slightly better than stock intake and weighs less.

Performer RPM and Air Gap are very close in stats with the air gap edging the standard rpm by a couple horse power.
One question. Why buy a new manifold if money is tight? I bought my RPM for 100 dollars at spring fling swap meet. It was clean and required nothing.
 
Money isn't tight for me. I was referring to if money was tight, a guy can do the internals and wait to do the intake later.

There isnt a lot swap meets around me. So to wait an indefenate time to save $175 isnt worth it to me. And I want this build done quickly so my daughter can drive it this fall.
 
340swinger4spd said:
Money isn't tight for me. I was referring to if money was tight, a guy can do the internals and wait to do the intake later.

There isnt a lot swap meets around me. So to wait an indefenate time to save $175 isnt worth it to me. And I want this build done quickly so my daughter can drive it this fall.
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I wasn't implying you specifically. Someone quoted the price as 300 dollars. Someone else mentioned it being more cost effective to port match the performer. I was just pointing out that there is an alternative to spending 300 dollars
 
rumblefish360 said:
And once again the original poster states the build purposes and perimeters yet to be ignored again and scoffed at. Johnny Dart, sorry "WE" all don't have YOUR money to mimic the handling of problems like the goverment does. The goverment says, "OH! Is this a roblem? Just just throw bags of money at it!"
IS he cheaping out or just ready to use what he has on hand?
While more power is allways great, the extra money involved may be tight. And for how much more power?
I would also allways like to use the best parts possible. But possible isn't always an available item. Perhaps you can throw some money at 340swinger4spd to help the Father/Daughter project along since spending isn't an issue with you. LMAO! ;)
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Scoffed at.....Huh ?
It only took 35 post's to finally state what he wants to do with the car. Good god.
Put the Performer on there. I got to go tend to the money tree in my backyard. :)
 
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Johnny Dart said:
It only took 35 post's to finally state what he wants to do with the car. Good god
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Wow, it's funny how rude people can be behind a computer. I thought I was very clear on what I was asking. Intake for intake which is the better choice with "MY" build. The "intended purpose" is irrelevant. This is my car. My daughter will get drive it with me. But that doesn't mean it doesn't have very good parts inside ie. H-beam rods, SRP pistons ect. ect. Did I want a 8k motor to make 500 hp? No... this isn't my first rodeo.

All I was looking for was some real world experience/opinions.

I came to this board to be able to talk to fellow A-body lovers and to get my fix of car talk. This is my high school car. I found it 21 years after I sold it. (I had to sell it when I went I into the service.) Why would a guy need to defend himself from the likes of you? Please in the future ignore any of my questions. I surely don't need to hear what you have to say.
 
No it was directed to the above yourself poster who has a money tree. ;)! LMAO
 
I have a build that is fairly similar to yours. Being a 360, it does have the bigger stroke, but it's about 10:1CR, Lunati Voodoo 268/276* .494/.513", Mild ported J heads 2.02/1.60 valves, stock iron exhaust. Originally had the Performer and a 750 DP on top. Then, I swapped to an RPM (non air gap) and it was a pretty noticable difference in midrange response. After a while with that setup, I ended up swapping the 750DP off for a 650DP and the response improved immensely with no decrease in top end pull.
 
That carb cfm difference was probably 10hp at best. A bigger carb doesn't automatically mean you'll go faster, as you have noted.

Good post.

I am about to run the next size up VooDoo cam in the wife's 10-1, 360 w/Edelbrock heads and TTI headers. It will have the Weiand Stealth on top with a 650 Thunder AVS.
 
nice choice rumble. its nice to see someone avoid the rpm air gap/ comp 268xe build that most follow. im kinda hoping to find an older offy dual plane for wifes 340 just for something different. i wouldnt turn down an air gap but in canada theyre about 500$. too much for me
 
I have a wide band in the car so tunine should be pretty state fwd. Usually going to a smaller car can improve throttle response but also can reduce avg. and peak hp.
 
rumblefish360 said:
That carb cfm difference was probably 10hp at best. A bigger carb doesn't automatically mean you'll go faster, as you have noted.

Good post.

I am about to run the next size up VooDoo cam in the wife's 10-1, 360 w/Edelbrock heads and TTI headers. It will have the Weiand Stealth on top with a 650 Thunder AVS.
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.513/.533..nice cam ran that in the 360 when I first built it...:D:D
 
RPM airgap hard to beat,modified performer very good! but a m1single plane will pull more torque and hp above 5000 than ether. just my 2cents
 
K.O. SWINGER said:
RPM airgap hard to beat,modified performer very good! but a m1single plane will pull more torque and hp above 5000 than ether. just my 2cents
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Thisis true, but the OP's build is more street. The M1 single has it's place. It's not here with these small cams and mild builds.
stroked340 said:
.513/.533..nice cam ran that in the 360 when I first built it...:D:D
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I think the wife will like it. It'll be good for her first engine in a long while.
 
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