Intake suggestions

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rod7515

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Need some opinions on choices with intake manifold. Not sure I should have posted in this thread or in the fuel section but I looked for other intake questions and most seemed to be posted here.
First let me tell you what my combo is with out the intake. I am building this in a 66 Dart. I have a 408 with 10.5:1 compression. Dish, with a D-shaped cup pistons. My cam is a comp solid roller cam that will be intake and exhaust lift of .575 and duration at .050 262. lobe sep is 110. rockers are harland sharp 1.5. heads are factory J heads with 2.02 / 1.60 valves and some porting. Dont have flow #'s. TTI 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" step headers with 3" collectors and a 3" TTI X pipe. running a melling HV oil pump and 8 qt milidon pan. The trans will be a built 904 with a Dynamics 4000 Stall converter. 8 3/4 rear with 3:91 gears. Hope I didnt miss any important information there.
Originally I bought an old Edlebrock TR5 2x4 intake that had 600 holleys with it. Probably a late 70's intake maybe early 80's at best. It came with linkage and 2 new carb rebuild kits. I already have one carb done and ready. It had been quite some time since this setup had been used but the price was good.
Now here's the reason for questioning myself and it has more then one potential problem if I continue on my original plan of using this.
1st - I plan on drag racing this car 3-4 times year. Im hoping to run mid 11's?
2nd - the 2x4 manifold is very high and i havent been able to set the engine in yet, but I am positive the carbs will be out thru the hood. I purchased an old style pro stock 5" (Unlimited PR-12) hood scoop but im still not sure it will fit under it.
3rd - my intake is going to need some machine shop work, as I inspected the intake closer I found that both the water outlet bolt holes will need helicoils put in them as the threads are gone. Also both, the heater hose pipe and the by pass pipe are that tight that I havent been able to break them loose meaning theres a very good possibiltiy its going to need to be rework at the machine shop. That means throwing more money into this set up. Yes ive tried heating both pipes and soaking with PB Blaster but it continues to just collaspe the pipes instead of breaking loose.
4th - I am sure that a 2x4 set up is going to take more work and adjustments on a regular basis which leads me to my question and reason for this thread.

Should I throw in the towel on this setup and just buy a single carbed intake? Im sure that it would make a simpler set up and Im sure less hassles. It wouldnt have as much of a wow factor but would probably be a lot less head aches.
If so what are your recommended intake and carb combo's? manufactor's? CFM?

How much will a single 4 compared to a 2x4 setup effect my 1/4 mile times? Better or worse?
Damn, I really had my heart set on the 2x4 but Im thinking its more trouble and hassle then its worth. And I have no idea if the carbs have or had any issues in their past life.
Looking forward to your thoughts. In advance I thank you for any information you can help with.
Thanks
Rod
 
It would have a better wow factor with two carbs but ultimately run better with one, IMO.
 
I would go with a single carb and a Victor intake, it would more than likely be faster that way. In my opinion you might end up with the "wow factor" going the wrong way with the duel carb setup....what I mean by that is people might be saying "wow, that car looks fast, but only runs 13's"...that would suck. I have never been a fan of the "all show and no go", but to each their own. In my opinion, a car with duel carbs should be going single digits in the 1/4 (I know I'll probably take some heat for that, but that's JMO).

With all that said, unless your heads are ported well, I think you will fall short of your mid 11's goal. Heads that flow well are the key to making good power.
 
If your only going to take it to the strip a couple times then I highly recommend the RPM Air-Gap. May give up a tenth or two at the track but will add lots more bottom end on the street. I just made the switch from a Victor to a Air-Gap a couple weeks ago and am very pleased.
 
I spoke with the tech line at edelbrock today and they highly suggest the Victor intake because of the cams RPM range. He explained to me that the RPM Air Gap is a very good intake but falls short when the engine is run above 6500 RPM. With the convertor Stall being 4000 he recommends the Victor which is made to handle the RPM range of 3500 - 8000 RPM's. They do not have a carb that he would recommend using and suggested that I find something that was a double pump carb. Spoke to the tech line at Summit and they recommended A quick fuel 850 carb. Is anyone else using a quick fuel carb. How do you like them? Do you think the 850 is enough CFM's? The prices on these carbs are very high so if I go with one of them I want to get it right the first time.
Again thanks for your help
Rod
 
Just a quick update on the carb recommendation. I didnt give the right carb part #. It is a RQ-850 Quick Fuel. It looks to be even more expensive then I originally thought it to be. Is this over kill and how streetable will that carb be? Other choices?
Thanks Rod
 
I built a 426 wedge Big block, and i run an AED 750 HOM carb will flow 830 cfm. Motor made 525 hp Done by 6000 rpm, and only used 630 cfm of air on the dyno. Best performance carb i have ever had, two jet changes on the dyno and we were dialed in. Give AED a call.
 
Just a quick update on the carb recommendation. I didnt give the right carb part #. It is a RQ-850 Quick Fuel. It looks to be even more expensive then I originally thought it to be. Is this over kill and how streetable will that carb be? Other choices?
Thanks Rod

I've had great luck with quick fuel products and an 850 would not be overkill. As far as streetable, you took that out of the equation when you installed a 262 degree @ .050 .575 lift solid roller cam and a 4000 stall converter and 3.91 gears. It's gonna be a nasty idling cantankerous beast no matter what carb you put on it. The 850 will be fine if tuned right but that's the trick. By your asking if it'll be streetable it tells me you know very little about tuning a carb (no insult intended) so you'll need to find someone that can tune it for you. One thing I like about the QF cars is each circuit is completely tunable but you have to know your way around carbs real good and preferably have a wide band O2 setup installed.

BTW: I ran a 830 annular on my very mild 408 and it ran great with very little tuning. Only reason I took it off is I drive the car quite a bit and the fuel mileage sucked big time. If my mild little 408 can handle an 830 yours will be fine with an 850
 
After many conversations with Edelbrock, Summit, members here on the site and SMI the last 2 days, I decided to let SMI (Sean Murphy Induction) custom build a carb for me. Also I have decided to go with the Edelbrock Victor that was recommended here in an earlier reply. I respect all the replys that were given, my reasoning for this carb choice was that it will be built to match the engine, converter and rear gear numbers. Its not I havent rebuilt carbs in the past, Ive actually worked as a mechanic for 25 years up until 3 years ago when I decided I was too old to beat my body to death working on cars. My reasoning for asking about the quick fuel is that I have never touched or seen one. Many more adjustments then a holley when reading about them.
Thanks again for all suggestions.
Rod
 
I hear ya on being a career mechanic. Enjoy life on YOUR car now!
 
Nice to see you went for a go car rather than a show car , good luck , hope it runs well . Interesting choice on the carb
 
After testing an air-gap vs the super victor, I can say you'd be miles ahead with an air-gap on a 408 with those heads. You won't need more than 5500 rpm before it'll run out of juice. I doubt you'll be in the mid 11s, but possibly high 11s if the car weight is low enough. Also the altitude...
 
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