Intro to a port job

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@MOPAROFFICIAL
Throw one of your new black exhaust valves in the head and see what, if any diff the valve makes.
I'm on it. Drove to santee to pick up more valves. Just got the 318 bits back to assemble too. Threads will all be updated
One thing I noticed is the finish on the super flow intake valves is not what it was.
What diff that's makes we'll find out. Their is only about .025 diff in stem under cut from eddy valves, eddy bigger.

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I'm not sold on these coated really smooth stems
I always liked industrial hard chrome stems (not flash chrome) like say the 440 Motorhome valves
then hit them with the sunnen od hone to give a fine crosshatch to hold some oil
 
We'll see, I'm not sold on heavy 3/8 valves.
Tomorrow morning testing the nitroblacks. So the intakes only changed it by 2.3 cfm over the eddy valves. .100-.300
Probably the .020 smaller undercut stem.
 
Got any numbers?
Still testing the nitro's on the exh.
They are 4cfm better than your edelbrock exh so far. The intake numbers
.100 65
.200 132
.300 192
.400 245
@.450 258, they all do between 254-259*
.500 263
.550 262
Each head has one that does 267/[email protected]=4 cfm better than some n only 3cfm better on most. If you stand close to the radius...it does 271cfm lol. Smog heads, funny.
I'm trying to get the exhaust numbers up a hair atm, tomorrow it continues.
 
For the street would it be better to have the Nitro valves in the heads or are the Edelbrock valves sufficient?
 
For the street would it be better to have the Nitro valves in the heads or are the Edelbrock valves sufficient?
I would think in something that held tune, like stays in the same elevation and basic weather that any stainless would be fine, the eddys included. If you drive all over...and it's a ragged edge motor, I like the nitro's. Btw I requested they milled them .025..so you should be right at 65cc...they could only do .010 and then it kissed the chamber cut of the valve job. I also bought new valve stem seals for the both... because on another set they did coteco seals, the white one..I gave up on those. They wear the stems and dont hold oil back better than other anyhow. Yours were black ones..no name, builder stuff idk. I'll send them as well, I won't use them.So you now have trickflow vitons. #tfs 52400454. To those reading-The 522-16 is the comp number for 3/8 .530 metal, they are a one time seal, press on and use up. If I wouldn't choose them myself, i dont use them on others.Btw I picked up a kwikway setup. I need a facer now.
Another thing.. the coated nitro valves would require clearance in your guides, they barely fit. ..which lends another thought. That they may be a good drop in a refresh where the guides are broke in and on the high side.
Since I'm typing I went ahead and took my brother-in-law's 318 heads back after checking the guide clearance on them and found .006 int and .008 exhaust ..roughly up to as much as .009
I set them right in front of the owner, hooked up my dial and mag base, 90'd to the stem...and said see...
He said he would fix immediately and began yelling across the shop. I check everything, that's what you get with me.
I've realized I'm kind of perfectionist.

I edited this.
 
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I would think in something that held tune, like stays in the same elevation and basic weather that any stainless would be fine, the eddys included. If you drive all over...and it's a ragged edge motor, I like the nitro's. Btw I milled them .025..so you should be right at 65cc...along with Paul's, the 273 heads from the thread. I also bought new valve stem seals for the both... because on his they did pfte comp seals, the white one..I gave up on those. They wear the stems and dont hold oil back better than other anyhow. Yours were black...but didnt say viton anywhere..So without 2nd thought...you now have trickflow vitons. #tfs 52400454. To those reading-The 522-16 is the number for 3/8 .530. They showed up yesterday. If I wouldn't choose them myself, i dont use them on others.
Btw I picked up a kwikway setup. I need a facer now.
Another thing.. the coated nite valves would require clearance in the guides, they barely fit. ..which lends another thought. That they may be a good drop in and a refresh wear the guides are broke in and on the .005-.008 side.
Since I'm typing I went ahead and took my brother-in-law's 318 heads back after checking the guide clearance on them and found .006 int and .008 exhaust ..roughly up to as much as .009
I set them right in front of the owner, hooked up my dial and mag base, 90's to the stem...and said see...
He said he would fix immediately and began yelling across the shop. I check everything, that's what you get with me.
I've realized I'm kind of perfectionist.

I edited this, had the #s switched.

Will the 3/8 seal work ok on the 11/32 stem?
 
Will the 3/8 seal work ok on the 11/32 stem?
Of course not, thats why you have the trickflow-52400454 11/32 .530...which are manufactured by the same people and marked the same. BOK on both comp and trickflow...one is cheaper by 2 bucks.

And I know why...

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damn democrats ...
 
Of course not, thats why you have the trickflow-52400454 11/32 .530...which are manufactured by the same people and marked the same. BOK on both comp and trickflow...one is cheaper by 2 bucks.

And I know why...

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damn democrats ...


I was joking on you. Lol

Comp has taken the wrong road.
 
I was joking on you. Lol

Comp has taken the wrong road.
I knew you were and I had actually typed how they'd be perfect and they will allow for extra lubrication of the guides LOL but I I thought somebody might take me seriously, you never know here... lmao
 
I'm not sold on these coated really smooth stems
I always liked industrial hard chrome stems (not flash chrome) like say the 440 Motorhome valves
then hit them with the sunnen od hone to give a fine crosshatch to hold some oil
Like I said, I'm not into heavy 3/8 valves if i can help it. To each his own.
 
I went though a few Machine shops to find a good one. I would still catch mistakes, but not too often. They would catch mine also, thankfully.

Boy howdy. Machine shops can really suck. That's why we gave up on the original 308s at the start of this thread. The original machine shop that worked on them sunk the valves but told me what a wonderful job he had done on them and that he had cleaned up the bowl under the valves. The only thing he did was cost me money.
But Moparofficial found me another pair of heads for building and found a good machine shop to do the work on them and they should be just about done now.
The good machine shop here that I finally wound up using for my block work has now switched owners. So I don't know if I'm going to get the same quality of work or not.
Good machine shops are hard to find.
 
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I went though a few Machine shops to find a good one. I would still catch mistakes, but not too often. They would catch mine also, thankfully.
I had to tell a guy to face the rod thrusts.
I mean.. the things were catching finger nail and looked like they were hamburger..
I just can't find consistency.
**** like that after you've already paid $350 for an engine balance
 
“BOK?”

Of course not, thats why you have the trickflow-52400454 11/32 .530...which are manufactured by the same people and marked the same. BOK on both comp and trickflow...one is cheaper by 2 bucks...
 
I had to tell a guy to face the rod thrusts.
I mean.. the things were catching finger nail and looked like they were hamburger..
I just can't find consistency.
**** like that after you've already paid $350 for an engine balance

Another reason I keep buying pieces of equipment. The less I have to depend on somebody else the better I like it.
 
Latest piece of equipment I bought.

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An I already know how to use it but need a little refreshing on it.
 
At this point.. a balance machine would be a money maker.

You can clean everything up and balance the pistons and rods with a harbor freight gram scale at home. Then take the final weight numbers with the crank to have it balanced. Cuts the price in about half.
 
You can clean everything up and balance the pistons and rods with a harbor freight gram scale at home. Then take the final weight numbers with the crank to have it balanced. Cuts the price in about half.
I would at least spend on a rod fixture for weighing. You can make them, sure.
 
I had to tell a guy to face the rod thrusts.
I mean.. the things were catching finger nail and looked like they were hamburger..
I just can't find consistency.
**** like that after you've already paid $350 for an engine balance

I told my machine shop not to touch mine, I polish them by hand on a thick glass plate.
 
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