dibbons
Well-Known Member
I had not noticed before the "2.76" tag on the differential cover (and the "2.76 Gears" written in yellow paint in post #24). I believe the original factory differential (long gone) carried a 2.93 gear.
Introducing Project "Scabra Tulitque"
- Thread starter dibbons
- Start date
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dibbons
Well-Known Member
When moving the vehicle around the yard (driving it) all of a sudden it died. Lost all electrical components also (horn, lights, etc.)
The first thing I tried was bypassing the ammeter, but that did not work.
I found a reproduction underhood wiring harness in storage, so I installed that next. Then I found a rebuilt alternator in storage (a little crusty) and purchased an old-school voltage regulator (point type) at a local auto parts dealer. Replaced the head lamp switch and ignition switch.
At this point, I could "hot wire" the vehicle and the horn worked, but the ignition switch would not work the starter, and the tail lights and headlights would not work. After finally replacing the underhood fusible link (16 gauge), all systems came back on line. The bottom wire in the last photo was on the vehicle and was replaced. I reconnected the ammeter.
When I had the dash out, I replaced all the little lamps in the circuit board. For some reason, even with new bulbs, only one of the three dash background lamps work, and the oil pressure light does not work either.
Noticed the brake master cylinder was empty, so a complete brake job is next.
The first thing I tried was bypassing the ammeter, but that did not work.
I found a reproduction underhood wiring harness in storage, so I installed that next. Then I found a rebuilt alternator in storage (a little crusty) and purchased an old-school voltage regulator (point type) at a local auto parts dealer. Replaced the head lamp switch and ignition switch.
At this point, I could "hot wire" the vehicle and the horn worked, but the ignition switch would not work the starter, and the tail lights and headlights would not work. After finally replacing the underhood fusible link (16 gauge), all systems came back on line. The bottom wire in the last photo was on the vehicle and was replaced. I reconnected the ammeter.
When I had the dash out, I replaced all the little lamps in the circuit board. For some reason, even with new bulbs, only one of the three dash background lamps work, and the oil pressure light does not work either.
Noticed the brake master cylinder was empty, so a complete brake job is next.
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dibbons
Well-Known Member
I am cleaning up the brake parts and backing plates. We have 10" x 2.25" brake shoes in front and 9" x 2" brake shoes in rear. So far on the backing plates I have used brake cleaner, wire brush, Dremel tool (too remove rust on those little "grease pads") Simple Green, wax/grease remover, and one coat of Ospho. The Autozone replacement shoes for the rear have less surface area than the shoes that were on the vehicle (first photo). But I notice the ends have been beveled.
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dibbons
Well-Known Member
I needed to loosen the front backing plates in order to access the front wheel cylinder screws. And to remove the rear rubber brake hose, I needed to clamp the 3/8" flare nut wrench with vice-grips to loosen the metal line before stripping off the head of the fastener. That metal line is not factory original, it is the only brake line I find that a previous owner has replaced.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
I had a local (Mexican) brake shop turn the four brake drums ($10.00 USD for all four). Around here, they don't measure 'em to find if they are more than .060 over. I just hope they are still within specs. They were in excellent condition when removed.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
The 185/75R14 tires are 20 or 30 years old. A few days after I removed them to renew the brakes, I found one had fallen apart.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
I had three new Uniroyal Tiger Paws on hand, but had to purchase two new Hankook (online) because the Uniroyal are no longer available around here in that size (and I want a complete set along with a new spare). Need to paint three more rims after I get them sandblasted.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
The instructions included with the new master cylinder warn against bench bleeding it. They always rust, so I began by applying a coat of Ospho to the cast iron and hung the cylinder up to dry.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
I could not find a 6024 head lamp locally (6014 was factory and nowhere to be found), so I ordered a pair online.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Cleaned up the exterior of the brake drums, wire brush, rinse with wax/grease remover, and now a coat of Ospho.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
The space behind the master cylinder was cleaned up a little, coated with Ospho, and finally a shot of RustOleum spray rust reformer. An improvement over photo in post #33.
Looking good!
Cley
Cley
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Last step was Ospho, now for a coat of RustOleum Rust Reformer on the backing plates. I could continue to use a topcoat, but I think I will leave 'em be now as they are.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Rust Reformer coated new master cylinder.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Master cylinder painted RustOleum Pro gloss black and lid painted with a couple of coats of clear.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Waiting for delivery of a rear brake kit. Cleaned up the front parts to re-use employing a gasoline soak, Evaporust, and Ospho. I found the front had been assembled without self-adjusters and I will leave it that way (this vehicle isn't really driven more than 20 miles a year).
Use a second wet coat of Ospho and dilute good with water!!!!
dibbons
Well-Known Member
I attempted to restore the "oil pressure warning" lamp and the two "dash instrument" lamps (one of the three instrument lamps is working) by getting on my back and pulling them out. I wasn't sure at first if I would be able to reach them without removing the instrument bezel, but I found it was possible.
So I bent the two brass contact tabs a little on each lamp base to better insure contact with the circuit board. After everything back in place, I found the low oil pressure lamp is now functional. Unfortunately, the same two instrument lamps are still failing me.
So I bent the two brass contact tabs a little on each lamp base to better insure contact with the circuit board. After everything back in place, I found the low oil pressure lamp is now functional. Unfortunately, the same two instrument lamps are still failing me.
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dibbons
Well-Known Member
I took three factory 14" rims down the street to be sand-blasted. Owner wanted $30.00 USD dollars total for the three. After some haggling, I paid $25.00 USD total. Actually, he asked for those two twenty or thirty year old tires in post #32 he wanted for a little trailer he just pushes around his lot, so I threw those in with the deal.
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dibbons
Well-Known Member
After a rinse with wax/grease remover, Ospho coated now.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Installed master cylinder. Now I'm not sure if the bolt for the pedal should be inserted from the driver's side (like it is situated now) or if the nut should be on the driver's side?
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Brushed off/blew off the Ospho residue and primed the "Electrofuse" 14" X 4.5" (made in USA) rims with RustOleum. I hung the rims on the drain tube of an old sink (had to counterweight it in order to keep it from tipping over). Electrofusion: "fusion by means of electricity"
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Duplicolor "Graphite" with a coat of clear (same color as third photo in post #32).
Those wheels look great!
Cley
Cley
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Assembled one (front) brake assembly this morning (and found some way to cut myself a couple of times). I purchased some "soft" copper washers online for the new hose installation. I used silicone (in place of factory gasket) to seal the wheel cylinders from the outside world. The front will remain manual adjust just like I found 'em. I still need to tighten the backing plate which was loosened so I could access the wheel cylinder bolt heads.
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