Is a '86 360 truck block a good core for a street performance rebuild?

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NYH1

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I can get a 360 out of a '86 Ramcharger. I want to put it in a Plymouth Duster or maybe even a Dodge Dart to make a nice little street car. It will see a 1320 pass or two a few times a year, but it's going to be a driver not a racer. The engine is a complete from air cleaner to oil pan 360 4 bbl with a NP435 manual tranny.

I'm going to have the block completely machined. I want to make either a 365 or a 408 stroker using a Eagle or Scat rotating assembly kit with a cast crank, forged pistons and 4340 steel I beam rods. I want to go with 9.5:1 to 10.0:1 compression and be able to run 92 or 93 octane fuel. I like the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, intake and maybe even the matching camshaft. I've had really good luck with Holley's #3310 750 vacuum secondary carb in the past and will probably run it or something similar to it. I'd like to get 350 to 400 reliable horsepower with really good torque for street use.

A guy I work with has a NP A-833 4 spd out of a "A" body. He has the blow proof bell housing to go with it. I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy it off of him. I'll go with 3.55 to 3.90 or so gears, headers with full length exhaust with mufflers that aren't to loud but flow good, radial tires, regular suspension with a full interior.

I have a lot of experience with small block Chevy's (especially the 406's) and a little bit of experience with small block Fords. This will be my first Mopar. I'll take all the advise I can get.

Thanks, NYH1! 8)
 

The '86 block will be a fine core for your power level, any 360 is better than a sharp stick or a slant 6!

See if the blow proof bell you're looking at is designed for the 153 tooth (11 inch) flywheel , which the 360 already has, if it is, then the flywheel behind the '86 360 will work fine.

Some lakewood blow proofs are designed to work with either the 130 or 153 tooth flywheels, because they'll have 2 bolt patterns for the starter and a removable cup for the starter 's nose to set into.
You will know one when you see it, it's an odd looking affair.

They also made them single pattern, 130 (10.5 inch) or 153 (11 inch) tooth.

Mark.
 
Will the stock 360 crank work if I go with a 365? What about a Eagle or Scat cast crank for a 408? I still don't know which way I'm going to go. I'll talk to the guy I work with and see what he says about the bell housing.
 
The stock cast crank will be fine. They are a very strong piece. Eagle and Scat both make good aftermarket stroker cranks. (well there is one thread on the board saying Eagle cranks are having problems but I haven't seen any personally). In my opinion Scat rods have one up on Eagle's due to being made from 4340 where-as Eagles are made from 5140 steel. All SCAT's are floaters too. I know you didn't ask about rods but I thought I'd throw it in cause you have to at least have new bolts installed in the stock ones and have them re-sized and that costs almost as much as aftermarket rods.

BTW: Ma Mopar suggests only boring 360's .020 over although I've known alot of them that are .030 over. I'd suggest sonic testing any block you plan to use making 400 hp. Strong cylinder walls are where the ring sealing ability is so you want to make sure you've got a good block.
 
The stock MoPar block & crank is good for quite a bit of HP. Yeild around 550 though there known to go higher...at your own risk, cast crank and all....stock oiling is fine for up to 6000 comfy, 6500 max, more and your looking at mods.
 
Even if I do stay with the stock 360 crank, I'm still going to use forged pistons and a set of Eagle or Scat "I" beam rods. I've never had a block sonic tested before, but it sounds like a good idea. The Edelbrock Performer RPM set ups (heads, intake and cams) generally operate from 1500 to 6500 RPM's. What oil pump and pick up would you guys recommend? I don't want to turn any more RPM's then I have to.

I've alway's used ARP head and main studs in the past so I plan on doing the same with this engine. I appreciate all the info. Keep it coming! Thanks NYH1!
 
scat 4340 i beam is the rod to use...not the eagle i beams.
 
scat 4340 i beam is the rod to use...not the eagle i beams.
Thanks. The more I read, the more it seems like Scat makes better stuff then Eagle does in general. Is that safe to say?
 
the eagle rods are 5140 steel...the scat are alot better steel...and they are about the same price these days...
 
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