Is Elc. Ignition Worth it?

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harrytoes

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I have a stock 318 in my 68 Barracuda. I am planning on spice up the engine with a new cam, intake and carb. Is it worth switching to electric? It seems like a few people have had problems with some of the units. It seems like such and easy upgrade to do? Is it worth it?

cuda engine.JPG
 
harrytoes said:
I have a stock 318 in my 68 Barracuda. I am planning on spice up the engine with a new cam, intake and carb. Is it worth switching to electric? It seems like a few people have had problems with some of the units. It seems like such and easy upgrade to do? Is it worth it?
Hey its worth it when we were runnin points on are 318 valiant the timing would fluctuate and run like crap we had to change the points a few time till i upgraded it its nice , just go to a yard get a electronic dist a control box and cut the plug with enough wires to spice into it just get the diagram from big block dart .com its way cheaper oh while your at it get a newer style alternator and voltage reg from the same car its nicer too.
 
If your "kink" is changing points, then no. You have many options. Some good some bad. Some have been having problems with the Mopar orange box, but you don't need to go with Mopar.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
If your "kink" is changing points, then no. You have many options. Some good some bad. Some have been having problems with the Mopar orange box, but you don't need to go with Mopar.


dont know if a complete MSD setup is within your range but on a fairly highperformance v8 it makes a big diference;)
 
harrytoes said:
I have a stock 318 in my 68 Barracuda. I am planning on spice up the engine with a new cam, intake and carb. Is it worth switching to electric? It seems like a few people have had problems with some of the units. It seems like such and easy upgrade to do? Is it worth it?

Changed mine and never have had a problem with it. If you do the upgrade, just ensure you know your wiring system and :book: twice and cut/splice once. PS There's a lot of help you can get here on it. Good Luck
 
If you`re going to build the engine up ,the electronic ignition is a great place to start.Get it set up and then you can practically ignore it. There is so little maintenance to them, it gives you time to dial in other things. I think they`re a worthwhile investment.
 
If your going with the MP electronic distributor, I'd replace the orange box with a Chrome one. I've had problems with the Orange box too.
 
I've been out of the game a while but when I was going to an auto mechanics vocational school we were told to watch Chrysler distributors because the bushings tended to wear out. This would make the timing fluctuate. It was easy to see when the distributor was on a distributor machine, but I kind of doubt many people have one of those, or even know what they look like. :) Don't know if this is still relevant info, but if you're going to buy a used distributor it would be a good idea to check for slop in the bushings.
 
[QUOTE='64 Cuda]I've been out of the game a while but when I was going to an auto mechanics vocational school we were told to watch Chrysler distributors because the bushings tended to wear out. This would make the timing fluctuate. It was easy to see when the distributor was on a distributor machine, but I kind of doubt many people have one of those, or even know what they look like. :) Don't know if this is still relevant info, but if you're going to buy a used distributor it would be a good idea to check for slop in the bushings.[/QUOTE]
"Thats Good Advice" I Had one that was Shot & Thats Exactly what the Problem was!I could tell i had a Problem with that when my Timing Light Showed Fluctuations on the Timing Marks when Engine was Running Could point to Other Things Too? "But That was my Culprit!! :thumblef:
 
An MSD is plain overkill unless your running big compression numbers. Check out Don's ignition setup at FBO www.4secondsflat.com He has a complete kit and his independent test results. I run one on mym 340 with great results. I even borrowed and msd box and tried it alongside with no change from his to msd's. He also does custom curved distributors too.
 
Second vote for the GM HEI module. make 4 wires, a jumper for the BR, get an internal resitor coil, electronic distributer, HEI module and you are good to go. Quick cheap and no splicing of wiring harnesses.
 
Before I added dual exhaust, i added electronic ignition
to my 64 Valiant.

I used a used box,I had for a spare from 20 years ago,
but you can buy one cheap at Advance Auto parts, etc.

The wiring harness is still available from Mopar,
you can buy it at the local dealer,or from Summitracing/ Mancini racing etc.

# 3690152 $19.95.

http://store.summitracing.com/defau...eywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp

I bought a "new" rebuilt distributor at Advance Auto Parts for about
$45.00.
303890
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?mfrpartnumber=303890+


You can buy a "replacment" box cheap, if you mostly street drive ;)

GP Sorensen Ignition Module

Part Number: EL110 Our Price: $22.44


http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=GPS&mfrpartnumber=EL110&parttype=194&ptset=A


http://www.ozmopars.50megs.com/slant6electronicignitionconversion.htm

http://www.ozmopars.50megs.com/cgi-bin/i/elect_ign_wir.jpg
2549000_0249-med.JPG
 
I bought a mallory set up for my 72 Scamp 318. Best investment I made for that car. That was also 11 years ago, and I don't own the car any more either.
 
convx4 said:
The next one I do will be with a HEI modular. No dumb ballast resistor to cause problems. Ez to do.

http://duster318.freeservers.com/tech/hei.html

Using an HEI module does not eliminate the need for a ballast resistor. It's the design of the coil that will determine if you need a ballast or not. If you purcahse a coil that does not require a ballast to limit current an prevent overheating you can use it with the mopar ECU too.

Both the coils listed in the above link require a ballast resistor when used with a basic electronic ignition module like the HEI or mopar ECU.
 
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