Is overspray on cylinder head ok?

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I've seen plenty, that valve train is a mess
so in your opinion this valve train is *also* a mess because of the pushrod angles?
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Here is everything cleaned up i also backed out cylinder head bolts and retorqued them the proper way in case they were not right as well… as far as cam journals and cam and crank and crank journals i have to just assume they are all right and cross my fingers.


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If there aren’t grooves in that shaft do NOT put them back on without putting grooves in them.

If the shafts aren’t killed already they will be. You absolutely, positively can not run those rockers with hydraulic lifters and no grooves.
 
If there aren’t grooves in that shaft do NOT put them back on without putting grooves in them.

If the shafts aren’t killed already they will be. You absolutely, positively can not run those rockers with hydraulic lifters and no grooves.
There are grooves on back side of shaft
 
Just gonna order these which everyone on here is using for my same hydraulic setup which is same T/A lenth at bottom of cup to tip of call 7.23”

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Do not, do not listen to Dan DaMan that valve train is not a mess. Looks like a complete set of 273 rockets arms
Best thing to do is instead of taking pot shots at length, is use a checking push rod.
Call Smith Brother's and have a set made took a week to week and a half. Well worth the wait.
 
Based on that post my 7.342 length is correct
You'd think that.....I put together a 340 and was planning on using the 273 stuff. After I was done measuring I needed pushrods approx. 7.1 inches long. Smith brothers was 4 weeks out so I just used the oem stamped stuff.
 
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That shaft looks like it got hot and lacked oil.
Looks like scrap to me.
they do look a little galled up. hopefully that's just the photo... but with the glimpse of the cam in that other shot... i dunno man.
 
You'd think that.....I put together a 340 and was planning on using the 273 stuff. After I was done measuring I needed pushrods approx. 7.1 inches long. Smith brothers was 4 weeks out so I just used the oem stamped stuff.

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A little off topic here.......While I am thinking about it...

The WP bolts look new? You know about the driver side shallow timing cover hole correct? Too long of a bolt there and it goes through #1 cylinder. I believe it is the 2nd from the bottom IIRC.
 
Good call Troy, man this sucks but I suggest a complete inspection piece by piece.
A little off topic here.......While I am thinking about it...

The WP bolts look new? You know about the driver side shallow timing cover hole correct? Too long of a bolt there and it goes through #1 cylinder. I believe it is the 2nd from the bottom IIRC.
 
Good call Troy, man this sucks but I suggest a complete inspection piece by piece.
That's what I would do......$4500 for the engine PLUS a six pack.......

Just an aside.....My numbers matching 340 had std bearings on a .010 under factory crank. This was put together by an engine builder to boot...So it does happen.
 
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