Is overspray on cylinder head ok?
- Thread starter J.B.
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middleagecrisis
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Too bad they couldn't spend a little extra time to mask off the valvetrain prior to painting. I personally would unbolt the rocker shafts and clean off the pushrods and try to get as much paint off the head surface as possible. Maybe use a lint free rag, with mineral spirits to wipe off the valve springs. At least you got the engine on a stand and can rotate it to keep solvent and debris from going down into the engine while you clean it up. Just my .02 worth.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
Any paint that is on moving surfaces is going to end up in the oil . Look at the pushrods and the rocker arm shafts. That paint will end up in the base pan. You will be lucky if the filter stops most of it.
There is very little cost to remove the heads, clean everything up and re-install. A plugged oil port or filter could result in wiped bearings or worse.
Sorry to tell you this but that is a lazy rebuild at best. I'd be taking the whole motor apart at this point.
^^^WHAT HE SAID^^^ Letting things like this go out the door causes a lot of concern about how good the attention to detail is throughout the rest of the assembly process...
Cuda Mike
Active Member
Get rid of the overspray, it will cause problems!
Does not appear to be a rebuilt engine.... more like a reseal/repaint if that. I would pull the heads, disassemble and clean all that paint off before putting it back together. Good time to inspect everything else as well.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Looks like a 5 year old painted it. I totally agree with the other guys, tear it down and do a complete clean up. I would also soak those push rods too and blow them out before re installing them. Like others have said it appears to be a spray can over all. Once you pull those heads check out the bore for a cross hatch pattern and check out the bearings. Be careful with cleaning those valve springs as thinner eats rubber and that's what those valve seals are made from. Good luck
Hey J.B.,
I was following your post about overspray on the engine. I tried not to get too caught up in the energy everyone was hammering you about. By the 8th post I assume you may believe your engine is junk.
I’m not sure of your skill level so I will assume you have some engine intelligence.
I am not trying to say you’re not highly skilled. I do not know you at all.
Any how. If you are worried about the over spray… it is not the best practice but will not kill your new engine. Run this engine for a bit and then change the oil. “A bit” meaning like 2-300 miles. Dries paint that becomes oil soaked will get caught by the filter and flush out pretty quickly. Anything else is stuck for good. Professional race Engines are painted inside on purpose to allow oil to drain quicker back to the pan. So dried oil sticks. Loose paint will float. I like the idea of wiping down with a solvent to catch and clean up any loose stuff.
If you are really concerned then find a good engine machine shop in your area and go talk to them. They would possibly take your engine in and take it apart to the level you feel you need reassuring on. Then assemble it with new gaskets if needed, and let you know where you actually stand. It may cost you a few hundred bucks but at least you know positive if the engine is worth what it was said to be. If you are well tested in rebuilding an engine then I suggest you take it apart yourself and double check a few items like the crank and pistons top and cylinder bores.
Trust me when I say… “you will know.”
Good luck and I wish you well.
Joe. Syleng1
I was following your post about overspray on the engine. I tried not to get too caught up in the energy everyone was hammering you about. By the 8th post I assume you may believe your engine is junk.
I’m not sure of your skill level so I will assume you have some engine intelligence.
I am not trying to say you’re not highly skilled. I do not know you at all.
Any how. If you are worried about the over spray… it is not the best practice but will not kill your new engine. Run this engine for a bit and then change the oil. “A bit” meaning like 2-300 miles. Dries paint that becomes oil soaked will get caught by the filter and flush out pretty quickly. Anything else is stuck for good. Professional race Engines are painted inside on purpose to allow oil to drain quicker back to the pan. So dried oil sticks. Loose paint will float. I like the idea of wiping down with a solvent to catch and clean up any loose stuff.
If you are really concerned then find a good engine machine shop in your area and go talk to them. They would possibly take your engine in and take it apart to the level you feel you need reassuring on. Then assemble it with new gaskets if needed, and let you know where you actually stand. It may cost you a few hundred bucks but at least you know positive if the engine is worth what it was said to be. If you are well tested in rebuilding an engine then I suggest you take it apart yourself and double check a few items like the crank and pistons top and cylinder bores.
Trust me when I say… “you will know.”
Good luck and I wish you well.
Joe. Syleng1
I'd get it all off anything under the valve covers.
Uncle Bob
Shiny paint causes stress.
I gotta say, I see photos like those calling that a rebuilt engine and I start to wonder if you're putting us all on.
What is that stuff in the valley?
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
Is it good? No. Is it bad? Meh, i see different brands of pushrods, it's probably just overhauled, not "rebuilt" unless you know the cylinders have been bored. Clean it up the best you can and just send it. Unless you have gobs of money tied up in this thing, don't even lose any sleep over it.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Yea with Glyptal, and that is an enamel based “paint” but it goes on when the engine is clean, and freshly machined. The rattle can paint on oily valve train parts will not stick and likely end up in the pick up screen. Resulting in a thread on FABO titled “where’d my oil pressure go”?
I suppose it's possible that the person who rebuilt the motor is not the same one who painted it. Could be sloppy paint, good motor. But if it is the same person who did both, I'd sure have to wonder how well the rest of the work was done. Me? I'd take the motor apart and check everything. You never know what you'll find when you take apart a supposedly "rebuilt" motor. DAMHIK
Correct! I apply Glyptal on almost every motor I build. If used correctly, it has its benefits.
I would personally pull OP's motor apart. Details matter. If a builder is willing to skimp on the parts you can see on the outside, just imagine what you can't see on the inside.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
Poor rebuild job as there is still gasket material on the intake side of the cylinder heads, I still say that it's a spray can overall
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't run that engine like that, no way
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
Depends what he paid for it. I'd roll the dice if the price was right. These things came new with left over casting junk still in the water jackets.
The way I see it, he either has to rebuild it now, or if he runs it and it fails he still has to rebuild it.
If he cleans it, rolls the dice and it turns out ok, then the gamble paid off. If it doesn't work out he was gonna be out that money anyways ripping it down and doing it all over again.
Unless there's thousands and thousands tied up in this or it's a numbers matching block, then roll the dice and get the car running and enjoy it
I think it'll be alright to be honest.
It's probably a razor blade rebuild, judging on the quality of the visible gasket surfaces.
If it was me:
1. I'd pull the pan and look at the main and rod bearings. All of them. Minimum spot check a couple clearances with platigage.
2. I'd inspect the oil pump internals.
3. I'd pull the cam and make sure the bearings are installed correctly, the cam turns freely, the cam oil holes are lined up reasonably well.
4. Id pull those rocker assemblies out and use some paint stripper to remove the paint.
5. I'd loosen and retorque the heads in proper sequence.
6. I'd break it in on my run stand.
Basically a laundry list of stuff to make sure that last bit of laziness represented by the over spray is limited to that and not everywhere else.
It's probably a razor blade rebuild, judging on the quality of the visible gasket surfaces.
If it was me:
1. I'd pull the pan and look at the main and rod bearings. All of them. Minimum spot check a couple clearances with platigage.
2. I'd inspect the oil pump internals.
3. I'd pull the cam and make sure the bearings are installed correctly, the cam turns freely, the cam oil holes are lined up reasonably well.
4. Id pull those rocker assemblies out and use some paint stripper to remove the paint.
5. I'd loosen and retorque the heads in proper sequence.
6. I'd break it in on my run stand.
Basically a laundry list of stuff to make sure that last bit of laziness represented by the over spray is limited to that and not everywhere else.
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
That's a hell of a lot of work to go through AMC just to take a chance of blowing up the whole works.
Its very easy to just take the heads off now and remove the basepan while the engine is out and check everything to be sure the engine is actually rebuilt. A little elbow grease and a few gaskets is a small price to pay to be confident the engine is sound
Couldn't even steal the Wife's saran wrap.. JHC.
If it were a 318, I probably would risk the minimal cleanup and gamble approcach. A little more hesitant about a 360, because I'm not tripping over them like I am with my collection of 318 cores. But given the availabilty of engines (not to mention the probable cost of the initial investment), I'd go the extra mile. To me, it's just not worth risking irrepairably damaging a real deal 340 block.
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I understand what you're saying.
Ive seen over spray on springs and rocker shafts of cars I've worked on that l have no
idea how long ago the last guy was in there before me/ and that paint ain't gonna go anywhere. No matter what size or brand that engine is. The only difference I've seen concerning "if it's a 318" or "if it's a 360" is that "if it's a 360" for some unknown reason ive seen and worked on more sludged up 360s than I have worked on sludged up 318s....
And Ive worked on more 318s than anything overall.
idea how long ago the last guy was in there before me/ and that paint ain't gonna go anywhere. No matter what size or brand that engine is. The only difference I've seen concerning "if it's a 318" or "if it's a 360" is that "if it's a 360" for some unknown reason ive seen and worked on more sludged up 360s than I have worked on sludged up 318s....
And Ive worked on more 318s than anything overall.
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