Is This 452 Head Ruined?

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The head is on the bench, it clearly needs reconditioned, or cleaned & checked out/touched-up at the very least. Looks like it may have Street Hemi springs on it, not the stiffest, but capable of handling a decent cam. If that's all that is required, a repair on that would be reliable.
I've had to repair the early aluminum 4-pedestal 3.8L heads a few times, the end pedestal(Dr. Frt. or Pass. Rr.) broke free on a lot of those, the Frt. head on one ran until the shaft broke & set a misfire code clacking away. Clean it, JB Weld the mating surface, then bolt the shaft down & add/devise a clamp adjacent to the failed pedestal. Once it's cured, deep-drill the hole for the tap size, then run a tap using the current threads guiding it through to the bottom. Gauge thread length & depth, find an appropriate cap screw or stud with enough thread to engage the pedestsal threads and the parent head material, drilling out some of the top threads if needed.
Put it together & run it, using sealant if You get into water etc., that's all.
 
That’s a perfect head to practice porting skills on.
Buy a pair of 915s and look for a set of SS 2.14/1.81 valves while you’re at it and with a little bowl work and port matching you can easily find 30hp.
 

I'm with @MOPAROFFICIAL .
As an engine machinist myself I'd say that is an easy fix.
I fix junkier **** than that for customers and never have comebacks.
Now if the ops is planning on running anything over hydraulic flat tappet spring pressure I'd say find another head but if it's stock and you can get 5/16 of thread depth there's absolutely no way it's pulling with 4 other bolts holding the shaft down.
That is a 30 minute repair. It doesn't need to be milled it is like cracked rods, the casting will set itself back where it belongs, id probably use a little jb weld on it and let it set up 1st. Then drill and tap it to a 3/8 if you don't bust it off while tapping it (with cutting oil) it won't break.
Wow, I'm surprised at some of these comments
 
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