It's Alive. New engine first fire up.

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Dartfan71

Dartfan71

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Firing up my fresh 360 for the first time. Last night I set the timing roughly, adjusted the floats and checked fuel pressure and bam! Fired right up. I wanted to run for a few seconds and check for oil leaks before we break in the cam and seat the rings tonight. Has a nice sound huh?

[ame]https://youtu.be/RIZW4mxXCBs[/ame]

 
Sounds awesome. Looks just as good too!
 
congrats! I love that fresh engine sound...and the feeling of accomplishment.
 
I like to run flat tappets from first crank to over 2000 to 5000 varied RPM for 20 + minutes to maximize my chances of a successful cam break-in. You do realize running the motor for a short while escencially wipes and washes off all the cam break-in lube? It's typically not a good idea before you're going to break in the cam? It may still be alright, but it is preferred to break-in the cam and tappets right out of the gate.

I don't mean to rain on you parade, that's a beautiful car, I just hate to see so many guys experience lobe failure.
 
jbc426 said:
I like to run flat tappets from first crank to over 2000 to 5000 varied RPM for 20 + minutes to maximize my chances of a successful cam break-in. You do realize running the motor for a short while escencially wipes and washes off all the cam break-in lube? It's typically not a good idea before you're going to break in the cam? It may still be alright, but it is preferred to break-in the cam and tappets right out of the gate.

I don't mean to rain on you parade, that's a beautiful car, I just hate to see so many guys experience lobe failure.
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I do appriciate your input and I have taken every precaution possible breaking in this motor and the break in went smooth with no issues. In my opinion there is nothing worse than getting halfway through a cam break in and realize you have a huge oil leak, fuel leak or lean condition. I don't think that it hurts anything to do a test fire for a few seconds ahead of time. I thinks it's pretty rare for a new build to fire right up and have no issues at all. Maybe in a dream world, but not in mine.

Now I need to install the inner valve springs, change the oil, cut open the filter and drive this thing.
 
jbc426 said:
I like to run flat tappets from first crank to over 2000 to 5000 varied RPM for 20 + minutes to maximize my chances of a successful cam break-in. You do realize running the motor for a short while escencially wipes and washes off all the cam break-in lube? It's typically not a good idea before you're going to break in the cam? It may still be alright, but it is preferred to break-in the cam and tappets right out of the gate.

I don't mean to rain on you parade, that's a beautiful car, I just hate to see so many guys experience lobe failure.
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I was thinking the same exact thing....Just wasn't going to say anything.....My engine builder said that my new 340 engine must fire immediately ( without cranking and cranking) and run 20 minutes at 2000 + RPM variable for cam to break in.....He was adamant on making sure I had the timing and everything set close when it fired so it would stay running for 20 + minutes........I would have put up with an oil leak and broke the cam in first....then fixed the oil leak later...

But as said beautiful car and I hope your cam broke in OK and didn't wash out a lobe....Sounds awesome!
 
dano said:
Dig that color. What is it?
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It's actually EV2 Hemi Orange Poly (Little bit of Metallic) in PPG Onmi, Base-Clear. The pictures on the trailer makes the car look more red than orange. To the eye it's Orange. I like it.
 
I broke in the cam at 2,500-3,500 rpm for about 25 minutes. I have never actually wiped a cam lobe yet. How soon would I know? I thought removing the inner spring would help avoid this?
 
Dartfan71 said:
I broke in the cam at 2,500-3,500 rpm for about 25 minutes. I have never actually wiped a cam lobe yet. How soon would I know? I thought removing the inner spring would help avoid this?
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Sadly, if you don't run a specialty oil like Brad Penn or a racing oil specifically designed for flat tappets chances will be much greater for a wiped cam lobe. I had one go away years ago on an old Purple Shaft after 4 or 5K miles. You will hear and feel it when and if you lose one. The bad part is that all that hardened metal goes through your motor. Another reason I like Jomar no-bypass oil filters. Just don't run one on your daily driver.

They removed a lot of the high pressure lubricants from-off-the-shelf street legal oils like zinc from the modern oils because they would eventually foul the catalytic converters at 60 to 80k + miles. A lot of flat tappet cammed motors have been affected by this change. Most modern engines have roller lifters. I upgraded my 440 with an aftermarket hydraulic roller, and my 408 Magnum uses roller lifters too.
 
jbc426 said:
Sadly, if you don't run a specialty oil like Brad Penn or a racing oil specifically designed for flat tappets chances will be much greater for a wiped cam lobe. I had one go away years ago on an old Purple Shaft after 4 or 5K miles. You will hear and feel it when and if you lose one. The bad part is that all that hardened metal goes through your motor. Another reason I like Jomar no-bypass oil filters. Just don't run one on your daily driver.

They removed a lot of the high pressure lubricants from-off-the-shelf street legal oils like zinc from the modern oils because they would eventually foul the catalytic converters at 60 to 80k + miles. A lot of flat tappet cammed motors have been affected by this change. Most modern engines have roller lifters. I upgraded my 440 with an aftermarket hydraulic roller, and my 408 Magnum uses roller lifters too.
Click to expand...

I did use brad penn break in oil. We will see. Thanks
 
Dartfan71 said:
I did use brad penn break in oil. We will see. Thanks
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Good job! Be sure to always run the specially designed oil for flat tappet cams, and you are less likely to lose a lobe. It does cost more, but its good insurance against lobe failure.
 
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