Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda

-
It was only 20yrs ago when you couldnt give a A-Body away. Now anything that is in good shape (aka road worthy) is starting at $8000 to $10000. I am surprised what $3k is finding. Poor enough condition that it should be stripped down and restored. In my opinion, no where near road worthy with the amount of rust and floor pan damage. Just restorable.

I am not buying a car any time soon. I need to save $10K.
 
Happy Holidays to all. Santa has visited me early this year. I was able to buy the QA1 coil over conversion kit for the barracuda. The project is back on track.

From the center of the engine to the outside edge of the starter motor is just under 9.5 inches. And from center of the engine to the outer edge of the starter solenoid is just under 11 inches. So I measured 11in from the center of the K-Frame to see whats in my way, and there is nothing. The lower control arm brackets are at least 12inches out from center. And those are the most narrow point in the kit. I am super excited. I almost gave up on this and built up a slant six. I am giving this engine 1 last chance before I go back to original 318 or a slant six.

I have a Cherokee in the garage right now getting transmission lines installed. Afterwards a Mk4 (2003) Jetta wagon TDi 5sp is going in the garage for a engine/clutch/transmission replacement. I am hoping to get the barracuda in the garage by mid Jan.

I will keep everyone posted.

Happy Holidays,
John
 
Last edited:
Hello everyone, guess who's back..... And I have great news.

It took some time to get myself motivated to move forward on this, with help from family and friends pushing me, Last weekend I installed the QA1 k-frame and steering rack from the kit for test fitment. I am super excited to say everything is going to fit. My current CJ mid sump oil pan will work and avoid the steering rack. I will be installing the factory 4.0L rear sump oil pan in the end.

The Starter FITS. I am super stoked about this.

Now I need to remove those parts and perform some clean up work on the chassis. As well as it looks like I may need/want some large flat washers to add to the oem K-Frame bolts as they dont want to seat down all the way. Plus some clean up needs to be done.

I also need to build the new engine mounts to go between the K-Frame and Engine. More to come on that.

In short, the project is moving again. Here are 2 pictures.

Hopefully next update will be the end of April. I need buy some items like myself another engine load leveler as mine has disappeared. As well as engine mount material.

I am thinking of the factory QA1 small block mounts with the C channel cut off and replaced with a Hiem Joint. Then weld tabs on my engine mount plates on the engine.

20240317_161320.jpg





20240317_143731.jpg
 
Congrats and super happy for you! What was the change with the starter issue that made it work? I still am a bit amazed that the 4.0 isn't too tall for this call.
 
Cruisingram said:
Congrats and super happy for you! What was the change with the starter issue that made it work? I still am a bit amazed that the 4.0 isn't too tall for this call.
Click to expand...
The new K-Frame and suspension kit from QA1. That solved the issue which caused the lack of space. Now I have a complete HDK suspension kit with NO car to put it in. Dang, now I need to buy another A-Body. :-D
 
I would be interested in it for the valiant in the picture in my avatar. It is hitting over 150 in the 1/4, thinking upgrade LOL.
 
Now I can install a factory 4.0L with No modification to the engine or the car. Just very expensive parts and minor fab work.

To get engine installed....
Custom Transmission mount
Custom Engine Mounts
QA1 tube k-frame and suspension kit.

Then of course fuel management whether you go carb or fuel injection.

We will see how the radiator works out. I believe I have enough room for the radiator to sit factory and a Flex-a-Lite fan pushing thru the radiator. May need to go with a full size dual core radiator. Time will tell.

Note: The engine shown in the picture is my mock engine. If it is like a typical 4.0L and runs, great. My goal is to build a new engine for my wrangler and move that engine to the barracuda once the fab work is complete. I have collected the parts for a 4.7 stroker to be installed in the wrangler and there is nothing wrong with the engine in it. This one has been abused and most likely wont start.
 
REmember these 4.0s don't exactly have a heavy duty radiator stock and don't overheat easily- coming from someone living in the tropics- might source a stock XJ radiator, which is paper thin compared to the A body mopar ones- and they used both and electric and mechanical fan stock. I just thought of the XJ radiator off hand because I just changed one recently- pretty small and neat unit. Looks like it would fit an abody perfect
 
Cruisingram said:
REmember these 4.0s don't exactly have a heavy duty radiator stock and don't overheat easily- coming from someone living in the tropics- might source a stock XJ radiator, which is paper thin compared to the A body mopar ones- and they used both and electric and mechanical fan stock. I just thought of the XJ radiator off hand because I just changed one recently- pretty small and neat unit. Looks like it would fit an abody perfect
Click to expand...
Thats right. I think its also a single core radiator. My only concern would be how wide. Though I can open the area of the radiator in the barracuda, I am trying to avoid those kinds of changes.

I have a 97 XJ, I bet I have a spare radiator to test with. When wheeling, its always a good idea to keep a few spare parts in-case the need of a trail repair when parts are not available.
 
Radiator cooling is all about airflow. (Duh, this guy’s a genius right?). But the reason I point it out, is that Chrysler knew this as well when they stuffed a 5.9 in the 98 Grand. They added air vents in the hood to help get heat out of the engine compartment. A big (enough) radiator is one thing, but if the air can’t easily escape, it loses efficiency. Now a Barracuda had those cool looking hood inserts,…hmmm, let me think here for a moment….
They should be far enough forward on the hood, I would think, so as not to cram air back down in the engine compartment off the windshield like the cowl vents.
 
Quick update:
I have installed the QA1 K Frame. I will get the suspension installed hopefully this weekend. And purchasing the rotors and calipers asap. Then build the engine mounts and attempt starting again.

Pictures to come by June 1st.

John
 
John, I'm really glad to see you going forward still. Forgive me for being lazy, but how did you end up solving the starter issue?
 
RustyRatRod said:
John, I'm really glad to see you going forward still. Forgive me for being lazy, but how did you end up solving the starter issue?
Click to expand...

Removing the newly purchased HDK suspension, new oem power steering setup, and factory K Frame (which uses the oem steering linkage) and purchasing the QA1 kit with mustang 2 steering rack.

It was really hard as I had to throw out about $8k of parts and fab work. When I get another A Body, I have a full suspension setup for it. But now, its put away unless someone offers a fair purchase offer.
 
JohnFM3 said:
Removing the newly purchased HDK suspension, new oem power steering setup, and factory K Frame (which uses the oem steering linkage) and purchasing the QA1 kit with mustang 2 steering rack.

It was really hard as I had to throw out about $8k of parts and fab work. When I get another A Body, I have a full suspension setup for it. But now, its put away unless someone offers a fair purchase offer.
Click to expand...
Wow. I must admit, you are tenacious. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Wow. I must admit, you are tenacious. lol
Click to expand...

I wont say how close I was to caving and installed a 318 or a stroker Slant 6... lol. I bought the Doug Dutra book on the slant six as a xmas gift from my son and even spoke to Holley to sort out the fuel injection and coil on spark plug ignition if I went 6.
 
Happy 2025. I am excited to say, IT STARTS :-D

YouTube Link
Barracuda First Start


Screenshot 2025-01-20 at 4.49.44 PM.png



Ok, so here's the deal and I am asking for feedback...

I had a gentleman's bet with my neighbor that if I needed to fiddle with the engine to get it to start and idle nicely, I owe him dinner at the local steak house. If I can install the engine and more or less start right up, he owes me dinner.

When ever he does a engine install, he spends all day rev'n the engine, fiddling with the lifters, timing, and messing with the carb.

My first start up required me to turn the distributor 180 degrees, replace the fuel pressure regulator, and add 1 more wire to 12v. In total, 30 min of troubleshooting.

In its purist form, I had to mess with the engine to get it too successfully make the first start. As compared to my neighbor, I was done in 30min and the second start as shown in the video is the result.

Who should buy dinner?

John
 
a good friend would buy dinner but still bust your balls about the distributor being 180 out while congratulating you on getting to the milestone.
 
JohnFM3 said:
Happy 2025. I am excited to say, IT STARTS :-D

YouTube Link
Barracuda First Start


View attachment 1716356035


Ok, so here's the deal and I am asking for feedback...

I had a gentleman's bet with my neighbor that if I needed to fiddle with the engine to get it to start and idle nicely, I owe him dinner at the local steak house. If I can install the engine and more or less start right up, he owes me dinner.

When ever he does a engine install, he spends all day rev'n the engine, fiddling with the lifters, timing, and messing with the carb.

My first start up required me to turn the distributor 180 degrees, replace the fuel pressure regulator, and add 1 more wire to 12v. In total, 30 min of troubleshooting.

In its purist form, I had to mess with the engine to get it too successfully make the first start. As compared to my neighbor, I was done in 30min and the second start as shown in the video is the result.

Who should buy dinner?

John
Click to expand...
Man that sounds just like my old 92' Cherokee, lol... I do kind of miss it.
My friend has it now, still running after over 360,000 miles!
Those old 4.0/4.2's were dang near bulletproof!
 
JohnFM3 said:
Happy 2025. I am excited to say, IT STARTS :-D

YouTube Link
Barracuda First Start


View attachment 1716356035


Ok, so here's the deal and I am asking for feedback...

I had a gentleman's bet with my neighbor that if I needed to fiddle with the engine to get it to start and idle nicely, I owe him dinner at the local steak house. If I can install the engine and more or less start right up, he owes me dinner.

When ever he does a engine install, he spends all day rev'n the engine, fiddling with the lifters, timing, and messing with the carb.

My first start up required me to turn the distributor 180 degrees, replace the fuel pressure regulator, and add 1 more wire to 12v. In total, 30 min of troubleshooting.

In its purist form, I had to mess with the engine to get it too successfully make the first start. As compared to my neighbor, I was done in 30min and the second start as shown in the video is the result.

Who should buy dinner?

John
Click to expand...
I just read this whole story, that is really crazy, just mind blowing, I was thinking that if a motor from a Jeep can fit into a small car like an old Barracuda, would it be possible, with a lot of the same changes to put a v8 motor in a car like that. I know the v8 engines are big and heavy, just asking.
 
Dale Murry said:
I just read this whole story, that is really crazy, just mind blowing, I was thinking that if a motor from a Jeep can fit into a small car like an old Barracuda, would it be possible, with a lot of the same changes to put a v8 motor in a car like that. I know the v8 engines are big and heavy, just asking.
Click to expand...

Building power with a V8 is not much effort than having the cash to buy the parts or pay someone to do it. And so many people follow status quo. As European auto manufactures have proven (such as bmw), inline 6's can be very much a performance engine. Shoot, you can bolt in a modern hemi and purchase with full ecu and harness. The big problem I faced was the K Frame. And if I would have bought the QA1 setup 10 yrs ago, I wouldnt have wasted so much cash. About $9K wasted in failed attempts.

That above statement added to the many people curious about this build as compared to a slant six build. Which I built, I had a 13.7 second slant 6 in a 74 duster. So I had no interest in building that again.

Also consider the HP and torque of a OEM Jeep 4.0 compared to a 318 (which was factory in this car) and the slant 6. Then look at all the performance the Jeep owners get out of the 4.0L. I own 3 jeeps (92 wrangler, 97 cherokee, & 99 wranger) all with 4.0L's, there is plenty of potential to build on and make a fun muscle car with great sound. I love my 4.0's with the flowmaster exhaust, they all sound great. My Cherokee sounds the best with a real tail pipe as complared to the short exhaust system of the wranglers. Now if this was a factory 340 car, that would have been completely rebuilt and modern with Holley sniper EFI.
 
Dale Murry said:
I just read this whole story, that is really crazy, just mind blowing, I was thinking that if a motor from a Jeep can fit into a small car like an old Barracuda, would it be possible, with a lot of the same changes to put a v8 motor in a car like that. I know the v8 engines are big and heavy, just asking.
Click to expand...
You mean a V8 swap for a Jeep that originally had a 4.0? Pretty sure it's been done.
 
Brake Components follow up

What is a good option for a booster, proportioning valve, and master cylinder?

I am considering a Right Stuff 8in booster
1974 PLYMOUTH DUSTER The Right Stuff RPB8001C The Right Stuff Brake Boosters | Summit Racing

And the Wilwood Master Cyl and Proportioning Valve
Wilwood Disc Brakes 261-16798-BK Wilwood Aluminum Master Cylinders | Summit Racing

I am still considering a hydro boost setup as I am worried about vacuum booster clearance with hood. And I can buy a mopar replacement hydro boost for about $600 ish

What have others done? I am really liking the Wilwood Master Cyl and Proportioning Valve as the valve is moved to directly attached to the MC which simplifies brake line routing.

I am running a 1974 big piston disk brake front and 1992 Ford 8.8 large drum brake rears.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top