Jeep 4.0 in 69 Barracuda

[JohnFM3]

Hmm, this is interesting.
Hydro-Boost Brake Booster for 60's and 70's Mopar Manual 4 Bolt Master Brake Conversion

 

[Killer6]

Brake Components follow up

What is a good option for a booster, proportioning valve, and master cylinder?

I am considering a Right Stuff 8in booster
1974 PLYMOUTH DUSTER The Right Stuff RPB8001C The Right Stuff Brake Boosters | Summit Racing

And the Wilwood Master Cyl and Proportioning Valve
Wilwood Disc Brakes 261-16798-BK Wilwood Aluminum Master Cylinders | Summit Racing

I am still considering a hydro boost setup as I am worried about vacuum booster clearance with hood. And I can buy a mopar replacement hydro boost for about $600 ish

What have others done? I am really liking the Wilwood Master Cyl and Proportioning Valve as the valve is moved to directly attached to the MC which simplifies brake line routing.

I am running a 1974 big piston disk brake front and 1992 Ford 8.8 large drum brake rears.

When You say "big piston", are You talking 'single vs K-H multi-piston', or 2.75" vs 2.625" single? And what diameter rotors, I forget if You've posted this already,..? Personally I'd skip the power assist with competent brakes, just not needed IMO, but You may prefer having it.

 

[JohnFM3]

When You say "big piston", are You talking 'single vs K-H multi-piston', or 2.75" vs 2.625" single? And what diameter rotors, I forget if You've posted this already,..? Personally I'd skip the power assist with competent brakes, just not needed IMO, but You may prefer having it.

Good point, let me clarify by stating I miss spoke as I had replaced the 1974 single piston front disk with Mustang II when I went to QA1 front suspension.

As far as my thoughts on assisted brakes, when I was younger I had a 1974 Duster with manual brakes it did fine while I had a factory setup. When I moved to the set of 10in wide 15in slotted mag's with 260 fronts and 280 rear tires, I put power brakes on the car shortly after the addition of those wheels/tires. It was that scary, and I was 17 at the time.

 

[JohnFM3]

I am really wandering if its time to start a build thread for my car. This thread was for the journey of getting the engine in the car, and ask questions pertaining to that.

Or, do I just keep this thread as my "Build" thread as it has all the history?

 

[JohnFM3]

Ok, here is a good question for those who would know...

Regarding the brake hard lines, my car was a factory manual Drum/Drum brake. I am in need of buying all new lines. Is the destination of each of the 3 lines leaving the proportioning valve the same? Ex: Where the hard line meets the soft line at the front driver wheel

Other than the starting location, are the lines for power vs manual the same?

 

[65 Dartman]

I am really wandering if its time to start a build thread for my car. This thread was for the journey of getting the engine in the car, and ask questions pertaining to that.

Or, do I just keep this thread as my "Build" thread as it has all the history?

Since the history is all there, it’s just like a build thread. Keep updating the build!

 

[Cruisingram]

Do you have an 8 3/4 in that already or you also going to swap in a Wrangler rear end? I am about to put the wrangler rear end in my dart this month I hope. And Congrats on the first start after all this time

 

[JohnFM3]

Do you have an 8 3/4 in that already or you also going to swap in a Wrangler rear end? I am about to put the wrangler rear end in my dart this month I hope. And Congrats on the first start after all this time

I bought a 1992 Ford Ranger 8.8 with factory limited slip and 3.73 gears and drum brakes. It was dang near bolt in and only 1 in wider giving me the same bolt pattern as Factory 1974 mopar.

 

[Cruisingram]

Nice. I may have to find one of those too

 

[mpgmike]

Regarding the brake hard lines, my car was a factory manual Drum/Drum brake. I am in need of buying all new lines. Is the destination of each of the 3 lines leaving the proportioning valve the same? Ex: Where the hard line meets the soft line at the front driver wheel

You can buy rolls of bendable hard brake lines. They come with a cheap coating and a good coating. Then there is stainless steel, which is more durable but harder to work with. I have made my own numerous times. It requires a bender and flaring tool. Not too bad.

As for the stroker for your Jeep that you mentioned, I took the plunge and have a 4.6 stroker in my '95 ZJ. I'm absolutely loving it!! I built it high compression and the factory ECU timing would make it ping even with the highest octane fuel I can buy down here (91??). I opted for a rusEFI UAEFI stand-alone. I intend to take over much of the factory ECU functionality, but for now, it controls timing only.

My 4.6 stroker build: https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/high-fuel-economy-stroker-build.4467732/

The Jeep build that the stroker went into: Time to Trade In

My rusEFI thread: 1995 Jeep 4.6 Stroker - rusefi.com

The rusEFI was a tad over $200 and is MODERN, with all the controls of something costing $2k more. Like the early MegaSquirt, it's open source. Also like early MegaSquirts, you may have to modify the board to accomplish your goals. Hope there is something you can glean from. Love what you're doing, even if I wouldn't do it myself.

 

[JohnFM3]

Love what you're doing, even if I wouldn't do it myself.

Dude, I am sorry. I thought I responded to this already. Thanks for the reply.

As of now, nothing new has been done. We are under a small snow and my car is currently under a sealskin car cover out of the garage. That said, I have purchased a bunch more exhaust parts in prep for building the new exhaust system. And I took the plunge and purchased a plasma cutter, using this time to build my welding table in prep for building the exhaust. I am surprised how far down the prices on those have come down. Mine at $500 seems to be pretty impressive.

I bought a late 90's Cherokee exhaust walker head pipe with a 2.5in outlet which will work with my new Flowmaster 2.5 in / 2.5 out cat converter. My neighbor tig welded my v-band strap flange to the converter for me as both parts are stainless and I had to butt join the 2 items. I should be able to weld the strap flange to the head pipe. And I have my other straps flanges to weld to the 2 outlets of the muffler and tail pipes.

Here is to hopefully soon a youtube video of the car exhaust system. Keep everyone posted.

 

[JohnFM3]

Major Update. I just saved a bunch of money by switching...... lol Naw, for real. I got the car sprayed with the Plastidip I bought 2 yrs ago. OMG, it looks 100% better.

Have a look and see what you think.

So this is what the car started this week looking like.

Applying the Grey Base Coat

First Coat of the Color applied 50% transparancy

Post Final Coat and break down of the car.

As you can see, there was no concern about the rear bumper. The chrome is flaking off badly. I need to strip it down an at least paint it with paint to protect the metal till I can get it chromed again. I also was not concerned about pulling the plastidip off the rear corner light. The current body damage really shows itself when the car is not in camouflage.

The important item to complete was protecting the body from the elements as it sits outside of the garage. And it looks dang good while doing so.
Also note that the front nose piece is installed. I roughed off the surface rust as much as possible, sprayed with rust converter, and followed by plastidip.

I so hope this works. Time will tell.

 

[JohnFM3]

BTW: Next is hopefully exhaust. Hoping my neighbor can free up his lift of the 1960's race car he is building. He just was hit with another blow with a new motor smoking during break in.

 

[JohnFM3]

I am surprised. Several thumbs up, but no comments. Thanks everyone.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I kinda like it. Looks better than I wouldda thought. I'm glad you're still pluggin along. You've been through enough that would make most people give up. I'm glad you didn't.

 

[75slant6]

I think it looks much better as well! I see what you meant about the dents and stuff being a lot more visible now, but overall, I think it looks great

 

[JohnFM3]

I had some troubles shooting the plastidip. Mainly painting the last couple coats outside in 76 degree weather with direct sunlight hitting it. Unlike the day prior, the material was drying as fast as I was spraying make it impossible to have wet overlapping coats. This caused tiger stripping across the roof. Luckily, with 1 more gal of color I can spray 2 more coats and correct some of the cosmetic issue. The best part is when I spray the next coat, the solvent in the paint (if you can call it that) will reactivate the plastidip already sprayed and create a thicker layer, and not a additional layer. Its hard to tell, but there are dark vertical lines on both sides of the door. I painted each section (fender / door / rear quarter) individually instead of 1 consistent spray from front to rear. The additional layers from the overlap of each section darken the color. That wont be easily fixed with 2 more coats.

I will be buying some matte black to be used for a AAR cuda inspired stripping which will be sprayed. Most likely next winter. Nothing more to say about that at this time.

New pictures to come later this week... My neighbor is calling it a crime by me to permit my car to sit on those wheels and tires since the uniform color. I have a set of 4 American Racing 15x8 wheels which he found a pair of tires (235/60 15) from his stock pile which are not streetable, but at least get it on something what looks better as well as more in line with what it might end up looking like. When he returns home from work, we will mount the tires and test on the front and rear to see how they fit. Then I will make decisions on the second 2 whether I will match the front and rear, or maybe a set of 205/70 15 for the front.

Fingers crossed we can get to my exhaust soon. Its believed that the oiling system problem has been corrected on my neighbors 1963 Galaxy 500. This will allow it to get off the lift and out of his garage making space for my car. Links to YouTube video to come once complete.

And to everybody, thank you. I have come really close to quitting a few times. It would have been a lot easier to put a v8 in this car. Thank you for not allowing me the excuse to do so.

 

[nutz]

Man that sounds just like my old 92' Cherokee, lol... I do kind of miss it.
My friend has it now, still running after over 360,000 miles!
Those old 4.0/4.2's were dang near bulletproof!

ha i blew-up my brothers 232 in his gremin ...was driving it all over in the snow next day it tossed a rod
but then years later a bought a 74 jeep with a 4.2 had a rod knock ..drained the oil and anti freeze put a brick on the gas peddle ...it slowly died
then it started again ...did that three times till i gave-up ...it won

 

[Killer6]

I had some troubles shooting the plastidip. Mainly painting the last couple coats outside in 76 degree weather with direct sunlight hitting it. Unlike the day prior, the material was drying as fast as I was spraying make it impossible to have wet overlapping coats. This caused tiger stripping across the roof. Luckily, with 1 more gal of color I can spray 2 more coats and correct some of the cosmetic issue. The best part is when I spray the next coat, the solvent in the paint (if you can call it that) will reactivate the plastidip already sprayed and create a thicker layer, and not a additional layer. Its hard to tell, but there are dark vertical lines on both sides of the door. I painted each section (fender / door / rear quarter) individually instead of 1 consistent spray from front to rear. The additional layers from the overlap of each section darken the color. That wont be easily fixed with 2 more coats.

I will be buying some matte black to be used for a AAR cuda inspired stripping which will be sprayed. Most likely next winter. Nothing more to say about that at this time.

New pictures to come later this week... My neighbor is calling it a crime by me to permit my car to sit on those wheels and tires since the uniform color. I have a set of 4 American Racing 15x8 wheels which he found a pair of tires (235/60 15) from his stock pile which are not streetable, but at least get it on something what looks better as well as more in line with what it might end up looking like. When he returns home from work, we will mount the tires and test on the front and rear to see how they fit. Then I will make decisions on the second 2 whether I will match the front and rear, or maybe a set of 205/70 15 for the front.

Fingers crossed we can get to my exhaust soon. Its believed that the oiling system problem has been corrected on my neighbors 1963 Galaxy 500. This will allow it to get off the lift and out of his garage making space for my car. Links to YouTube video to come once complete.

And to everybody, thank you. I have come really close to quitting a few times. It would have been a lot easier to put a v8 in this car. Thank you for not allowing me the excuse to do so.

You surely deserve a gold medal for persistance on this project!!! Glad it's still on it's feet heading towards the finish line!!

 

[JohnFM3]

You surely deserve a gold medal for persistance on this project!!! Glad it's still on it's feet heading towards the finish line!!

I have always told my boys, once you get the engine started the rest of the work gets rolling.

 

[JohnFM3]

I need to locate some 1967 or 68 headlight bezels. I found a complete set with turn indicators for $750 plus shipping on Ebay. With my current unemployment situation, those are in my watch list for when I can purchase them following a new job. The other thing I need to locate is the driver side front bumper mounts. 1 of mine is broken. Possibly due to a accident.

John

 

[RustyRatRod]

ha i blew-up my brothers 232 in his gremin ...was driving it all over in the snow next day it tossed a rod
but then years later a bought a 74 jeep with a 4.2 had a rod knock ..drained the oil and anti freeze put a brick on the gas peddle ...it slowly died
then it started again ...did that three times till i gave-up ...it won

I just don't know how to respond to that.

 

[nutz]

D

I just don't know how to respond to that.

Never told my brother I was joy riding his gremlin
I bought the jeep for the trans and the suspension. It was rolled
Was hoping to blow up what was left of the engine.....it never let loose
The trans and suspension went into a v8 74 Cherokee made a 10" lift triple shock setup
Would take it around the local motor cross track....5' jumps at 50mph
Till I almost rolled it end over end ....got smart and sold it

 

[nutz]

Just i was watching too much "fall guy"

 

[JohnFM3]

Latest Update ~ Still no exhaust.
After the bad influence of my neighbor, I grabbed a set of rims I had been saving for my Jeep and installed new Hankook tires. The rims are polished aluminum 15 inch American Racing AR23 with a overall width of 8 inches and a 3.5in backspace.

Rear: 235/60 15
Front: 205/70 15

It really turned out well. Its amazing what a bit of color followed by wheels and tires turn the look of a vehicle around. I will make time this winter to pull the wheels off and attempt to polish them up. I will also be looking for knock-off's (???) or what I recall them being called as spinners. The little center cap thing with 3 little wings as shown in the picture below. Probably wont be chrome as the rim is a polished aluminum. Maybe color matched to the car, or Matte Black.

The new rears show how badly the rear suspension needs redone. New leaf springs are in this car's future sooner than later. I feel the rear needs to be raised about 1 inch from its current location.