Steve Mcbean
Well-Known Member
I only say "Tank" pertaining to location. ANd since I dont know where it's leaking exactly, I just say tank.
Just as slow as before mods..
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Yes but it may also have a mechanical pump on the engine. People run both. Its not common, but its done.
There will either be a pump,or a block off plate visible or the right side of the engine. Behind the water pump and in front of the #2 exhaust.
edit: It's kindof under the alternator but not hard to see if its there.
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That was fine to begin with, but now the goal is to figuer out what needs fixing. Changing a line or a fitting is different situation than changing a tank. it also means to find the leak, the pump will have to be powered up.
Yes. The gas tank straps do not come through into the trunk. Only the shock mounts, which are higher up.
No, it simply leaks when it should not. Nothing wrong with an electric pump, it's the installation that someone did incorrectly.
Steve Mcbean
Well-Known Member
I traced the fuel line from the carb to the rear, no other pump found. Line fed into the left side of the regulator in pic. I crawled deeper under to try and get a better pic. Wish i had a lift.
Steve Mcbean
Well-Known Member
I can't see any access in the truck. I looked twice
Ironracer
Gearhead
I love the way you think, Linc! The steel toe let's em know!
Looks like it might be square sided. It might be a fuel cell, and it might have an in-tank pump.
Assuming the leak is in the lines, you could keep that. Run a short flexible line to a copy hardline, then to a regulator, then filter and to carb. If you must use hose for distance, then something like AN (Army-Navy spec) is the best choice, although expensive and a PIA to work with.
You probably find a block off plate on the engine where a mechical pump goes.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Maybe I'm just simple, but those things seem like a lot of hassle, unless you really need to upgrade, I just like the regular ones man, two bolts, two hoses, one gasket. 10 minutes or less, nice and clean
Where the filler neck passes through the floor and enters the tank there is an access point, assuming the car still uses the factory filler neck.
On the other hand, if the only way to solve the leak is to drop the tank, then going stock may be the way to go.
Because:
1. Factory or factory copies fit and function without a lot of custom work. Steel or stainless hard line is better than long hoses.
- Aftermarket copies are not always as good a fit as the orignals but for fuel tank and hard lines the only regular issues reported are the fuel sender accuracy and the lock rings. Good lock rings are available so, no problem there.
2. There's no need for electric pump with a carb. But it puts a load on the electrical system these cars were not designed for.
A Holley 110 mechanical pump or the Carter stock type mechnical pump will keep the carb filled and not need a regulator. One less thing to go wrong.
One issue with '73 may be the vapor capture. You may want to go with an earlier tank.. Others here can advise with regard to that, if you go that route.
If you go this route, the fuel cell and electric pump can be sold. Cells are required for some types of racing.
From that picture it looks like it might be a Tanks Inc replacement with the pump mounted internally.
That eliminates the lock ring, as those are bolt on.
And if it only leaks when the pump is running, the fault is in the connections or lines.
Wow!
It is looking Like you have an in the tank electric fuel pump, look how it is bolted in instead of the factory lock ring.
Also has the external fuel pressure Regulator mounted on the upper shock rear cross member.
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Now the question is do you still have the factory mounted mechanical fuel pump mounted at the passenger front of the engine ?
All those extra gas hoses at the back, is a good place for it to leak.
Then trying to push the gas from the tank with 4 psi coming Out of the rear regulator, with an electric fuel pump up to the engine.
Whoever set that up needs their head examined. Surely not done by a classic car guy that knows mopars.
☆☆☆☆☆
It is looking Like you have an in the tank electric fuel pump, look how it is bolted in instead of the factory lock ring.
Also has the external fuel pressure Regulator mounted on the upper shock rear cross member.
__________
Now the question is do you still have the factory mounted mechanical fuel pump mounted at the passenger front of the engine ?
All those extra gas hoses at the back, is a good place for it to leak.
Then trying to push the gas from the tank with 4 psi coming Out of the rear regulator, with an electric fuel pump up to the engine.
Whoever set that up needs their head examined. Surely not done by a classic car guy that knows mopars.
☆☆☆☆☆
Steve Mcbean
Well-Known Member
That appears to be a bolt in pump and or sending unit, that is definitely not a stock style fuel tank.
Ironracer
Gearhead
That's being polite! It's definitely pretty shady man it looks like it would actually be more of a hassle and cost more than to go back with a stock type setup it didn't take me long at all to do the ones in my current and past Mopars
Steve Mcbean
Well-Known Member
Nicely done with the fuel line zip tied to the heater hoses.
JMO, that fuel system can use a complete redo from a simplicity and safety approach.
If you lived by me, I'd suggest coming over and take an afternoon to clean it up.
That plate on the tank is on the horizontal plane, correct? That is a sender or a pump as others have mentioned.
Car looks great... just needs some refining.
JMO, that fuel system can use a complete redo from a simplicity and safety approach.
If you lived by me, I'd suggest coming over and take an afternoon to clean it up.
That plate on the tank is on the horizontal plane, correct? That is a sender or a pump as others have mentioned.
Car looks great... just needs some refining.
Ironracer
Gearhead
I mean it's hard to tell from pictures but the paint Body and interior on that car just look immaculate! Whoever did some of that other stuff, ought be shot.
Another on the throttle issue. If it has a floormat, that can impede full swing of your pedal to the floor, reducing cable movement at carb. I had a similar issue and took a decent sized sectional relief cut out of the floormat.
Ironracer
Gearhead
I've seen that with hyperactive under carpet insulation....
Steve Mcbean
Well-Known Member
Floormat doesnt lay below the pedal, but there is carpet. I dont think it holds it back that much.
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