Just as slow as before mods..

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Steve Mcbean said:
Let me see if i get right what he said. The reason the secondary doesn't open with pedal to floor, is it doesnt open on with AVS2 carb until driving. I think its what he said.
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There's the spring loaded flap up top over the secondaries, and then there's the butterfly's underneath.
The flap won't open unless the engine is on the road. The butterfly's underneath definitely should open when your pedal is all the way down. They may not go to 90 degrees, but they should open pretty far.
This video, starting at 0:17, shows the secondaries as far open as they should go.
 
Steve Mcbean said:
Ok, lets go. Where you want me to start first?
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1. Go down the parts house and get a timing light. (You can probably rent one) Let's see where the initial timing is at as well as total.

2. Rent a compression tester and let's see what the cranking compression is.

3. Have to sort out the throttle opening.
 
Steve Mcbean said:
Let me see if i get right what he said. The reason the secondary doesn't open with pedal to floor, is it doesnt open on with AVS2 carb until driving. I think its what he said.
Click to expand...
That's totally incorrect. Tha AVS carburetors are MECHANICAL SECONDARIES that are controlled by an air door. The "how much" and "how hard" the air door is to open controls air flow, but the base plate opens the secondaries mechanically. Your guy is dead wrong. I and several others have told you multiple times now how to adjust your throttle cable, that it is not adjusted correctly. We're not saying all that just to be wasting our breath. You obviously have someone who doesn't know what he's doing working with you. I suggest you find someone that does. Steve, maybe there's a willing member in your area who would come take a look at it? Maybe buy the beer and hamburgers.
 
You may just decide to keep it after a blast around town when you get it running good! I any case, glad to see you are getting it figured out. The folks here at FABO pretty much always come through.

Be well
 
plumkrazee70 said:
1. Go down the parts house and get a timing light. (You can probably rent one) Let's see where the initial timing is at as well as total.

2. Rent a compression tester and let's see what the cranking compression is.

3. Have to sort out the throttle opening.
Click to expand...
Ok, be back in a while.
RustyRatRod said:
That's totally incorrect. Tha AVS carburetors are MECHANICAL SECONDARIES that are controlled by an air door. The "how much" and "how hard" the air door is to open controls air flow, but the base plate opens the secondaries mechanically. Your guy is dead wrong. I and several others have told you multiple times now how to adjust your throttle cable, that it is not adjusted correctly. We're not saying all that just to be wasting our breath. You obviously have someone who doesn't know what he's doing working with you. I suggest you find someone that does. Steve, maybe there's a willing member in your area who would come take a look at it? Maybe buy the beer and hamburgers.
Click to expand...
Brother...I aint ingoring anyone's advice. And i didnt take this guy's advice over yours. I was just quoting what he said and I even quoted him incorrectly. Ive been advised by several here on different topics. I cant remember all of them and i didnt print each lesson. No familiar with navigating this page like a veteran.


replicaracer43 said:
So dude doesn't live in TX, where does he actually live?
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I only moved from Austin to San Antonio. Austin isnt considered Texas anymore by us.


Ok, I'm back from Autozone. I have the compression tester and bought a timing light. Like plumkrazee70, I'd like to take one step at a time, so as not to lose instructions in the thread. Gonna eat my late lunch while the comments come in.
 
Yep. 18-22 was where I set them at.
Split hair soup for some . **** what's it matter, right. The best part is it's if it is stock build 318 then it probably isn't even up to the compression ratio I stock 318 is with those thick *** head gaskets. Damn thing could crank 135.lol be nice to have a parts list of what's actually in this engine unless it's listed and I missed it in the pages
RustyRatRod said:
Not many, I can assure you. Most I've tuned will eat up 16-20 initial.
Click to expand...
 
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Steve Mcbean said:
Ok, be back in a while.

Brother...I aint ingoring anyone's advice. And i didnt take this guy's advice over yours. I was just quoting what he said and I even quoted him incorrectly. Ive been advised by several here on different topics. I cant remember all of them and i didnt print each lesson. No familiar with navigating this page like a veteran.



I only moved from Austin to San Antonio. Austin isnt considered Texas anymore by us.


Ok, I'm back from Autozone. I have the compression tester and bought a timing light. Like plumkrazee70, I'd like to take one step at a time, so as not to lose instructions in the thread. Gonna eat my late lunch while the comments come in.
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I would have told you to get the dial back version that you can adjust to the desired number and just adjust the distributor to where timing mark is at 0. Easier to see n no guessing or timing tape needed.
Try and address one problem at a time. The guys mentioned you're kickdown cable AKA throttle valve pressure to your transmission may not be adjusted properly and that's true ...it will not act right because it has a speed sensor at the tail of the transmission telling it how fast it's going but the throttle valve pressure is nowhere appropriate for that speed and things get crummy from there till it eats itself. So fix that and I'd probably just buy a stock replacement one or get one off of a Dodge truck or something similar
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I would have told you to get the dial back version that you can adjust to the desired number and just adjust the distributor to where timing mark is at 0. Easier to see n no guessing or timing tape needed.
Try and address one problem at a time. The guys mentioned you're kickdown cable AKA throttle valve pressure to your transmission may not be adjusted properly and that's true ...it will not act right because it has a speed sensor at the tail of the transmission telling it how fast it's going but the throttle valve pressure is nowhere appropriate for that speed and things get crummy from there till it eats itself. So fix that and I'd probably just buy a stock replacement one or get one off of a Dodge truck or something similar
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I have an appt with a tranny shop monday for that. As for the dial back version, yup didnt know.
 
Steve Mcbean said:
Will be back, need a socket extension. So, I unplug all the spark plugs and coil wire? Insert tester in cylinder #1 and turn the ignition for about 10 sconds?
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1 warm the car up 1st
2 make sure your battery is full
3 unhook coil wire
4 open carb full thottle
5 can either pull all the plugs or 1 at a time
6 note the reading after 2 cycles then get reading after 5 or 6

7 hope you have 145 psi reading and all closely read the same
 
a-bodyguy said:
1 warm the car up 1st
2 make sure your battery is full
3 unhook coil wire
4 open carb full thottle
5 can either pull all the plugs or 1 at a time
6 note the reading after 2 cycles then get reading after 5 or 6

7 hope you have 145 psi reading and all closely read the same
Click to expand...
What do you mean "can pul all the plugs or 1 at a time"? Take out the plugs too, or just the wires? Stop at 2 cycles and start over? Or pay attention during the ignition at 2 and stop at 5 or 6?
 
Steve Mcbean said:
What do you mean "can pul all the plugs or 1 at a time"? Take out the plugs too, or just the wires? Stop at 2 cycles and start over? Or pay attention during the ignition at 2 and stop at 5 or 6?
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go watch a video youtube
you remove the spark plugs to do the test
either 1 at a time or all 8
when you spin it over the quage rise thats 1 cycle the next cycle will push it higher
a high number after 2 cycles is better then get max reading
you should watch a 4 min video before you start
come on steve get involved research is how you learn
 
Steve Mcbean said:
Get involved? Your fuking with me rght?
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you should go to youtube watch a video on how its done
a video is worth 20 post
5 min your done and know how to do it
you need to help yourself steve as well as get help
or get 10 people telling you 5 ways its done it turns into a clusterfck
its about as hard as cooking toast
good luck
 
I'm watching and theres lots of great advice. A-bodyguy is right, it takes a LOT of back and forth to learn how to do something. A 5 minute YouTube video and youve learned how to do it. Then post results here.
Imagine texting someone how to do this....
 
Yes you can take all the plugs out or you can take only one out yes having the carburetor held wide open during this test will in effect give you a more accurate result. The old style starters don't crank as fast therefore people like to take all the plugs out AKA rid the resistance. Don't worry about the cranky people. As mentioned.. around 145lbs is what you expect from a bone stock 318 / rebuild, slant 6, 360 etc.. 8.1 or about. If you have less than that... we will need to look into the 'why' . Someone was mentioning stock cam or RV cam or something like that but I'm not thinking you have an RV cam for some reason not after all the money you put into it. To stick a white box cam in there would be pretty half-***
 
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