Just as slow as before mods..

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MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Yes you can take all the plugs out or you can take only one out yes having the carburetor held wide open during this test will in effect give you a more accurate result. The old style starters don't crank as fast therefore people like to take all the plugs out AKA rid the resistance. Don't worry about the cranky people. As mentioned.. around 145lbs is what you expect from a bone stock 318 / rebuild, slant 6, 360 etc.. 8.1 or about. If you have less than that... we will need to look into the 'why' . Someone was mentioning stock cam or RV cam or something like that but I'm not thinking you have an RV cam for some reason not after all the money you put into it. To stick a white box cam in there would be pretty half-***
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Steve Mcbean said:
Ok here's what I got as per receipts:

1. Machine work for resurfacing heads and valve job, repaint engine
2. Carb - 500 cfm Edelbrock AVS2
3. Cam - Grind 260H RPM 1200-5200
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basically a 340 cam and a question mark on the bottom end.

but to your point, should still be 145-ish across

i'm still thinking that getting the carb and timing dialed in might wake this sucker up. but given the rest of the chicanery i'd leave nothing to chance and verify everything. oh and the whole WOT test and trans kickdown needs handled.

i dunno, maybe he thinks it should put his eyeballs into the back of his head when the loud pedal goes down? it's only a 318 with a 340 cam and 3.70's so not like it's gonna yank the tires, but it should still be good for a pair of black stripes.
 
.Cook that ******* toast already LOL however you do that ...open flame, griddle, oven, or by toaster like most people who even still eat toast in this world.
Getting hot in this kitchen
 
junkyardhero said:
basically a 340 cam and a question mark on the bottom end.

but to your point, should still be 145-ish across

i'm still thinking that getting the carb and timing dialed in might wake this sucker up. but given the rest of the chicanery i'd leave nothing to chance and verify everything. oh and the whole WOT test and trans kickdown needs handled.

i dunno, maybe he thinks it should put his eyeballs into the back of his head when the loud pedal goes down? it's only a 318 with a 340 cam and 3.70's so not like it's gonna yank the tires, but it should still be good for a pair of black stripes.
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Yep unless that cam is in there straight up then it's going to be a dog with stock replacement Pistons. It'll take a ton of initial timing that way and it'll need it to be anything other than a wet fart off the line. But really I along with a body n the rest feel the same , timing n curve will help big time , regardless.
 
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junkyardhero said:
basically a 340 cam and a question mark on the bottom end.

but to your point, should still be 145-ish across

i'm still thinking that getting the carb and timing dialed in might wake this sucker up. but given the rest of the chicanery i'd leave nothing to chance and verify everything. oh and the whole WOT test and trans kickdown needs handled.

i dunno, maybe he thinks it should put his eyeballs into the back of his head when the loud pedal goes down? it's only a 318 with a 340 cam and 3.70's so not like it's gonna yank the tires, but it should still be good for a pair of black stripes.
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Ok, the carb is actually a 650 CFM. I corrected that at the sale post.

I tried taking the plugs out. No can do. They put them in too tight. I was afraid of breaking one. I tried loosing plugs 1-6, gave up.

So, carb and timing is still on the list. I've seen two good videos on this particular AVS2 carb. Lots of different tuning from front screw adjustments, to pump adjustment, to secondary spring adjustment.

I know its been said to death, and everyone has given advice as to changing the throttle cabling setup or adjusting it. Can we start there...again?
 
Steve Mcbean said:
Ok, the carb is actually a 650 CFM. I corrected that at the sale post.

I tried taking the plugs out. No can do. They put them in too tight. I was afraid of breaking one. I tried loosing plugs 1-6, gave up.

So, carb and timing is still on the list. I've seen two good videos on this particular AVS2 carb. Lots of different tuning from front screw adjustments, to pump adjustment, to secondary spring adjustment.

I know its been said to death, and everyone has given advice as to changing the throttle cabling setup or adjusting it. Can we start there...again?
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If you run the car up to operating temp it might help you get the plugs out.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Yep unless that cam is in there straight up then it's going to be a dog with stock replacement Pistons. It'll take a ton of initial timing that way and it'll need it to be anything other than a wet fart off the line.lol
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the one time a small double pumper would be ideal! lolz.

put a bunch of timing into it, air up the tires to 45psi, drop it into low and go for a big ol' brake stand burnout.

but first, i'd check the wires and make sure the firing order is right...
 
No offense but it seems you can’t be helped. Either that or you just aren’t listening all that well.

Steve Mcbean said:
Yup. Put a 2x4 to the pedal.
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FIX THIS FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!!!!!! THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM! THE THROTTLE CABLE POSITION AND LINKAGE IS ALL FUCKED UP.

buddy tuning your car likely said the carb works great as he grabbed a HANDFUL of throttle whilst standing beside the car with the hood up and says ‘this is okay’. the thing is BARELY OPENING WITH YOUR 2X4 PLANTED TO THE FLOOR! That’s why when you drive it is ultra lame and has NO POWER.

Have you completely forgotten about this. And and an extensive post from me suggesting what could get rid of this problem?

if You do not address this it will not go away.

IMG_4262.jpeg
 
Steve Mcbean said:
I know its been said to death, and everyone has given advice as to changing the throttle cabling setup or adjusting it. Can we start there...again?
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seeing that it's may the fourth... use the search function luke. help you, it will.

also, it doesn't much matter what carb is on it short of a 1050 or some such. 650 is fine.
 
4mulas said:
No offense but it seems you can’t be helped. Either that or you just aren’t listening all that well.


FIX THIS FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!!!!!! THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM! THE THROTTLE CABLE POSITION AND LINKAGE IS ALL FUCKED UP.

buddy tuning your car likely said the carb works great as he grabbed a HANDFUL of throttle whilst standing beside the car with the hood up and says ‘this is okay’. the thing is BARELY OPENING WITH YOUR 2X4 PLANTED TO THE FLOOR! That’s why when you drive it is ultra lame and has NO POWER.

Have you completely forgotten about this. And and an extensive post from me suggesting what could get rid of this problem?

if You do not address this it will not go away.

View attachment 1716086146
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Haven't forgotten. Just couldn't find it again IN ALL THE HUNDREDS OF ******* POSTS. Too many people talking and everyone demands I listen to them individually and somehow REMEMBER EVERYTHING you said. This thread is very long and takes forever to find what you said 150 comments ago. Then someone says, hey start with this first...

I'm better off listening to just one person here and doing it thru private message, so nothing is lost. The only problem i saw, was PMs don't allow images as attachments. How bout you, Yoda?
 
Huh.... "The first shop"..... They........
I see the problem right there.....
 
Steve Mcbean said:
Haven't forgotten. Just couldn't find it again IN ALL THE HUNDREDS OF ******* POSTS. Too many people talking and everyone demands I listen to them individually and somehow REMEMBER EVERYTHING you said. This thread is very long and takes forever to find what you said 150 comments ago. Then someone says, hey start with this first...

I'm better off listening to just one person here and doing it thru private message, so nothing is lost. The only problem i saw, was PMs don't allow images as attachments. How bout you, Yoda?
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It’s not just me telling you if the the throttle doesn’t open, many others have too, That it makes zero power.
this is the number 1 thing you need to focus on and forget the rest of the chatter about pump shot position and the rest until this is done. Otherwise everything else is pointless.
 
4mulas said:
It’s not just me telling you if the the throttle doesn’t open, many others have too, That it makes zero power.
this is the number 1 thing you need to focus on and forget the rest of the chatter about pump shot position and the rest until this is done. Otherwise everything else is pointless.
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He's right ^^^^^^
 
With engine off have someone get in car hold gas pedal to the floor. Not take air cleaner off and look down in carb and make sure throttle blade is wide open. Easy peasy.

Compression test, verify firing order all plug wire correct, check spark plug gap, put some Timing Tape on balancer and verify initial and total timing.

Dana rear? No worries about breaking that with a 318....
 
340sFastback said:
With engine off have someone get in car hold gas pedal to the floor. Not take air cleaner off and look down in carb and make sure throttle blade is wide open. Easy peasy.

Compression test, verify firing order all plug wire correct, check spark plug gap, put some Timing Tape on balancer and verify initial and total timing.

Dana rear? No worries about breaking that with a 318....
Click to expand...

4spdragtop said:
Put a brick on the gas pedal. Make sure it's right to the floor.
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he did! He wedged a 2x4 against the pedal to the seat. The throttle cable, bracket, adjustment, and kick down is a mess. He’s getting about 1/8- 1/4 throttle max. As per the picture I just posted.

the answer is clear.
 
Steve Mcbean said:
Ok, the carb is actually a 650 CFM. I corrected that at the sale post.

I tried taking the plugs out. No can do. They put them in too tight. I was afraid of breaking one. I tried loosing plugs 1-6, gave up.

So, carb and timing is still on the list. I've seen two good videos on this particular AVS2 carb. Lots of different tuning from front screw adjustments, to pump adjustment, to secondary spring adjustment.

I know its been said to death, and everyone has given advice as to changing the throttle cabling setup or adjusting it. Can we start there...again?
Click to expand...
Use the ratchet with socket, no extension on no. 2.... or 6... pull or push.. take your pick. They are just paint stuck more than likely.
 
This is a painful thread. To bad the car got into the wrong hands. For the money you spent, you should have a turn key 340 replica car. Assuming that it was an original 318 car.

Looking at the car with 4 wheel disc brakes, and a manual brake master cylinder tells me all I need to know about the car.
Lipstick on a Pig ?

If it was my car, the Dana, 318, electric fuel pump, lokar, hoopty instrument cluster, would all be removed and sold.

In would go all factory parts. 340/360, mechanical fuel pump, factory steel fuel lines, factory kickdown linkage, factory cluster/gauges, 8 3/4.

The paint, interior, and wheels all look great. So you are ahead of the game there.

Demons are rare cars, and this one deserves to be built right.

The tough part here is you are already out of pocket 24k :(
 
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When you put spark plugs back in put Antiseize on threads and just snug plugs up. They don't need to be 100 foot pounds of torque tighten till they smoke etc....
 
Let's focus on getting the linkage fixed, then move to next steps.

I know you're frustrated., I've been ripped on an old car I really wanted to enjoy, too. I don't know enough about tuning to help, even if I was there. But, others are trying to help, and they're getting frustrated, too.

The carburetor linkage was suggested, tested, diagnosed by follow up photos and then validated by multiple opinions. Before continuing into timing and compression testing (more diagnosing), correct the linkage issue.

If there is still an issue, THEN everyone look at, and work on, timing...you don't have to go through multiple pages of posts for all the things to do, if you just pick one and do it.
 
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