Kelsey Hayes Brake Questions.

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CrazyManInCincy

CrazyManInCincy

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I brought the beast out of storage for the winter. While driving around I noticed some brake noise and it looks like at some point my front caliber was hanging up and left some nice grooves in the rotors. Here are my questions. I found the caliber rebuild kits and wondering how hard are they to do? I also where do I find new rotors? I also was going to replace the wheel bearings while I had everything apart so any help there would be great. Did the calibers come painted from the factory? Thank you in advance for any help.

Mike
 
Kelsey-Hayes are fixed calipers. Do you mean a piston is frozen? I'm not sure what you have, any pictures?
 
The pistons are sticking. I was able to reset them and as long as I don't break hard they have been releasing back. The calibers need to be rebuilt. I am sorry this is all new to me. I have a 1966 Baracudda formula S with the Kelsey Hayes four piston brakes. I will try to get pictures when I can.
 
I got rotors on Rock Auto about two years ago. Caliper rebuild shouldn't be too hard unless they are pitted. You could also get rebuilt calipers from Calipers Online.
 
CrazyManInCincy said:
The pistons are sticking. ... with the Kelsey Hayes four piston brakes.
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I recall that the Stainless Steel Brake Company (SSBC) got their start by making stainless pistons for the Kelsey-Hayes brakes since corroded, sticking pistons was an endemic problem. They did it more for Mustangs, which used the same K-H calipers, since a lot more of them.

Flush thru new brake fluid every 2 years to avoid such corrosion. DOT 4 or 5.1 is the best glycol to use today. If you use DOT 5 (silicone) like me, no more internal corrosion concerns.
 
FYI Summit Racing has crossdrilled slotted "Made in USA" rotors for about the same price as generics.

With 4 pistons per caliper (some of which will be stuck), it's a lot of work to rebuild them. You can get them new from O'Reillys, about $110 per side last time I looked.

Calipers were bare metal.
 
mvh said:
FYI Summit Racing has crossdrilled slotted "Made in USA" rotors for about the same price as generics.

With 4 pistons per caliper (some of which will be stuck), it's a lot of work to rebuild them. You can get them new from O'Reillys, about $110 per side last time I looked.

Calipers were bare metal.
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Good info! Thank you
 
My calipers were rebuilt by SSBC but they no longer do them. I use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid and have never had a problem for going on 20 years in either Barracuda.
 
Ok... So I went hunting for parts and found the caliber and pads local! I can not find the rotors,hubs,seals and bearings for the 66 barracuda. Any part numbers or links would be great! I feel like I'm for getting something.
 
CrazyManInCincy said:
Ok... So I went hunting for parts and found the caliber and pads local! I can not find the rotors,hubs,seals and bearings for the 66 barracuda. Any part numbers or links would be great! I feel like I'm for getting something.
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The hubs are not available aftermarket so don't toss yours.

I went through the same issue with the bearings and seals. Have them look up 10" brake drum parts for your car for the bearings and seals because they are the same as the Kelsey Hayes disc brake parts.
 
I bought my rotors from centric. Drilled and slotted for $65ea at partsgeek.com
 
CrazyManInCincy said:
Thank you! What about rotors?
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Rotor numbers:
Wagner BD60257
Bendix Prt1054
Centric plain rotor 121.63005 I detest these because the castings sometimes rubs the caliper so you have to have them trued up.
Centric 12763005L cross drilled and slotted rotor.

Bearings:
Inner BCA-A2
Outer BCA-A6

Oil Seal:
National 6840S
 
Pics of the rotors
 

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To replace the rotors you have to have the wheel studs pressed out switch rotors and studs pressed back in. I would suggest you get new studs. Dorman 610-130 these are right hand tread I don't know the # for left handed if you want to stay orginal.
 
BillGrissom said:
Flush thru new brake fluid every 2 years to avoid such corrosion. DOT 4 or 5.1 is the best glycol to use today. If you use DOT 5 (silicone) like me, no more internal corrosion concerns.
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And make sure to download the latest drivers from the web for whichever brake fluid that you use, so it works properly.


DOT 5.1 fluid is already on software update v 3.5
 
73Duster6 said:
To replace the rotors you have to have the wheel studs pressed out switch rotors and studs pressed back in. I would suggest you get new studs. Dorman 610-130 these are right hand tread I don't know the # for left handed if you want to stay orginal.
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610-131 is the left hand thread stud part number. The problem is they are obsolete and there is none to be found new unless you are extremely lucky to locate a mom and pop type store that still have some old stock.
 
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