[WANTED] kelsey hayes part and proportioning valve

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mopower440

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I have a 1972 dart that i am swapping a kelsey hayes disk set up onto. I am needing a proportioning valve that will work for this disk/drum set up, and i also need this fitting that i am pointing at in the picture for a K-H caliper..i believe it may be the bleeder valve?
khbrake fitting.jpg
 
When you go over to your local parts store, to order up your DISC brake hoses, just ask them for a bleeder screw for that caliper.
Nothing special about bleeder screws.
Should be a part every parts store should have in their stock.
 
hemi71x said:
When you go over to your local parts store, to order up your DISC brake hoses, just ask them for a bleeder screw for that caliper.
Nothing special about bleeder screws.
Should be a part every parts store should have in their stock.
Click to expand...
ok thanks. figured it was something i couldnt get at the parts house.
 
The rear hold off valve and short line from the distribution block are available from In-Line tubes and others as well. These are the stock pieces. Aftermarket adjustable portioning valves will give you the same when plumbed in correctly.
 
1969383S said:
The rear hold off valve and short line from the distribution block are available from In-Line tubes and others as well. These are the stock pieces. Aftermarket adjustable portioning valves will give you the same when plumbed in correctly.
Click to expand...
Im assuming it would be less modification to use the original stuff from inline that your speaking of than using an adjustable one? Also, I THINK I read somewhere on here that you can use the prop valve from a 1973-76 disk drum car also, even though its a single piston type system?
 
The OEM DOT3 brake fluid draws moisture which causes rust. Thus used proportion valves are much like used master cylinders. Odds against you.
 
If you are not truly restoring your car, you can eliminate it.

I've done that on 2 of my cars. Basically, the line from the MC for the front brakes goes to a tee on the frame rail and then to each front caliper. The line for the rear brakes goes directly into a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve mounted to the frame rails below the firewall. A single line then goes to the rear of the car to the fixed bracket that transitions into the flex hose that leads to the factory tee on the rear end housing. You can also mount the adj prop valve near the MC (there are kits to do that) but I wanted mine to look somewhat stock.

One advantage is if you change components in the future, like adding rear discs, this will accommodate that.
 
You can Pm me if you want an original. Have. 73 and 74 prop valve
 
ok, whats the difference between the proportioning valve and distribution block, they look the same? Some call it one thing and some call it the other for the same part..?
 
Google proportion valve to see it is a hydraulic spool valve assembly. Distribution block is nothing more than a block with ports drilled though it where lines join up. Like a T or F fitting, only more complex.
 
mopower440 said:
Im assuming it would be less modification to use the original stuff from inline that your speaking of than using an adjustable one? Also, I THINK I read somewhere on here that you can use the prop valve from a 1973-76 disk drum car also, even though its a single piston type system?
Click to expand...

The newer combo distribution valve with the Texas hold off as part of it does not fit well on the earlier A without modifying the line sets. Seems much easier to plumb in a adjustable unit.
 
1969383S said:
The newer combo distribution valve with the Texas hold off as part of it does not fit well on the earlier A without modifying the line sets. Seems much easier to plumb in a adjustable unit.
Click to expand...
Damn, i was told the opposite before, thats why i opted for the factory one. Crap..
 
1969383S said:
Don,t fret you can do it it just may take a little extra effort.
Click to expand...
Someone was saying i could just unbolt the factory distribution block and bolt the prop valve right in its place using the factory one...? I ordered a factory one today. Whats your take on installing it?
 
I ordered the wrong one for my pre 73 and went to plumb with all the correct 69 lines and it sits at different angle and not plug and play. Re-ordered. It can be adapted but I was going for stock! Here are pics of a pre 73 factory BB setup that also has the heat shield to cover the distribution block found only on BB cars. Note the separate hold off valve down lower on the frame.

6B256464-3DC1-45A3-AFD3-2714266AB2A7.jpeg


F1134147-0EA6-4A35-9D91-25F5C58A48A1.jpeg
 
1969383S said:
I ordered the wrong one for my pre 73 and went to plumb with all the correct 69 lines and it sits at different angle and not plug and play. Re-ordered. It can be adapted but I was going for stock! Here are pics of a pre 73 factory BB setup that also has the heat shield to cover the distribution block found only on BB cars. Note the separate hold valve down lower on the frame.

View attachment 1715311448

View attachment 1715311449
Click to expand...

Hmmm, i swear mine already has that in the same spot, but i have to be mistaken because its a drum brake car..I will have to look. This isnt going to be as easy as id hoped, im going to have to gigure out which line goes where. I thought it was one line in and one out.. Where did you find those nice brake lines at? Looks good!
 
I ran into the same problem. I ordered pre fab lines for a 68 dart not knowing it had a separate hold off valve for the rear drums.

If you order a 70 and up you can just plumb a regular integrated proportioning valve as pictured.

Since I wasn’t going 100% 1968 factory correct, I just added a straight 3/16x3/8 Brake line connector along with a 7/16 to 3/8 nut adapter in place of the hold off valve. I did this instead of ripping everything out and reordering lines due to my ignorance at the time.

See pics

You can see here where the extra valve would have been on a 68 or 69 a-body
1234745D-3CA6-4ABB-A943-28D187E87FAD.jpeg



Hold off valve
D9DBC4F4-F0B7-4790-BEF0-53C254046D6C.png


Simple connector installed
87DF9461-0738-48BF-8DAB-CF5514163C32.jpeg


Easy peasy

1A272B2A-DA13-4237-87F7-5C04D7B422F7.jpeg
 
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The distribution block, lines and hold off valve all came from inline tubes. I opted for the standard lines and not SS. Direct Bolt on plug and play. I did not trust any of it as being nearly 50 years old when the resto was done.
 
daves66valiant said:
I ran into the same problem. I ordered pre fab lines for a 68 dart not knowing it had a separate hold off valve for the rear drums.

If you order a 70 and up you can just plumb a regular integrated proportioning valve as pictured.

Since I wasn’t going 100% 1968 factory correct, I just added a straight connector in place to the hold off valve. I did this instead of ripping everything out and reordering lines due to my ignorance at the time.

See pics

View attachment 1715311450


Hold off valve
View attachment 1715311451

Simple connector installed
View attachment 1715311452

Easy peasy

View attachment 1715311453
Click to expand...

Great pics! You can see the mount angle difference great. Your SB does not have the heat shield and it will not work with the newer style combo valve!
 
Stock resto requires the right stuff. See the other and it sits straighter to plumb. No biggie as you just form the lines a bit. Easier with a unoccupied engine bay. The newer combo valve is larger than just the earlier distribution block and a stock BB heat shield will not work with it!
 
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