Kelsey-Hayes replacement

[S'cuder]

Arrived today from Autozone. $129.58 total.
The discoloration isn't corrosion, but some of that anti-rust schmutz they're coated with so they don't turn to dust in the salt air on the slow boat from China. They did come in plastic bags, but the bags were torn.

A quick check check with a tape shows them to match the dimensions Centric published for their rotors back when they were available. It's entirely possible they come from the same source.

Having at least one fewer machining steps, they're not as nice as the rotors I bought a while back, shown below. Hopefully the rough, as-cast portion won't rub on the calipers. If they do, they could be turned down a bit.

All sealed up in 2.5 gallon Ziplocs with a couple desiccant bags for good measure. Now to go in a sealed tote in my basement. It may seem like I'm hoarding, but my son wants my car when I'm done with it (dead). There's not much point in passing along a car to which maintenance parts are unavailable or unaffordable.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Take note when you install the calipers around the aftermarket rotors. The rotor "hat" on most of the aftermarket rotors is larger in diameter than the original ones and it rubs against the rubber dust boots on the caliper pistons. You can chuck them up in a brake lathe and cut them down some, but just keep a watch out for that.

 

[S'cuder]

Here's a screen capture I took a little while ago that has cross reference vendors and part numbers for these rotors. I'm not guaranteeing it's accuracy, but maybe it can be a useful tool. I did spend some time with it and Google without much result. But who knows what you might find now. It might be most useful searching Ebay.

Edit: I see this chart isn't too clear. If anyone wants a better version, PM me, and I'll send it to you.

 

[S'cuder]

Take note when you install the calipers around the aftermarket rotors. The rotor "hat" on most of the aftermarket rotors is larger in diameter than the original ones and it rubs against the rubber dust boots on the caliper pistons. You can chuck them up in a brake lathe and cut them down some, but just keep a watch out for that.

Thanks, Rob. I was wondering about that. That rough finished hat would tear up dust boots in no time. It makes sense to check the clearance on the machined ones, too.

I think the next time I do brake pads, I'll switch away from semi-metallic. For the price and how well they stop, they're hard to beat. They're rough on rotors though. Almost every spring I find they've tried to rust fast to the rotors. Those new kevlar-aramid fiber pads are supposed to work well but are are easier on rotors. Expensive, but available, because Mustangs use them. So the choice may no longer be what's affordable, but what's available, and it will be expensive. Maybe I should just give it up. I tried that once, it didn't work.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks, Rob. I was wondering about that. That rough finished hat would tear up dust boots in no time. It makes sense to check the clearance on the machined ones, too.

I think the next time I do brake pads, I'll switch away from semi-metallic. For the price and how well they stop, they're hard to beat. They're rough on rotors though. Almost every spring I find they've tried to rust fast to the rotors. Those new kevlar-aramid fiber pads are supposed to work well but are are easier on rotors. Expensive, but available, because Mustangs use them. So the choice may no longer be what's affordable, but what's available, and it will be expensive. Maybe I should just give it up. I tried that once, it didn't work.

I would run the lowest level pad I could find in a good brand. Does that make sense? In other words, an organic pad in a brand like Wagner, EIS, Raybestos, or any other leading brand. That will assure a quality pad, but it will be easy on the rotors. My God, it's a four piston caliper. It's GONNA stop pretty dang good. lol

 

[S'cuder]

I would run the lowest level pad I could find in a good brand. Does that make sense? In other words, an organic pad in a brand like Wagner, EIS, Raybestos, or any other leading brand. That will assure a quality pad, but it will be easy on the rotors. My God, it's a four piston caliper. It's GONNA stop pretty dang good. lol

You're right, but I'm a big fan of semi metallic pads. About 30 years ago, I had a '73 Charger 400 as a kick around car. The big boss at the time put the kibosh on using company cars for personal reasons. So I picked up this Charger from a kid who worked in the parts department at a DCP dealer. It needed brakes, so I got all brand name Wagner stuff from one of my oil customer's parts store. Pads, rotors, calipers (rebuilt, don't remember by who) hoses, bearings, shoes, drums and wheel cylinders. I was disappointed with the result. My friend said "I told you the semi metallic were better." So I swapped them out. Big difference, just from the pads. The rears were over braking anyway, so I left them alone. What did I know then about adjustable proportioning valves or smaller piston wheel cylinders?
Where I live, I can't drive a mile without someone pulling a dick move. So I'll be using the good pads.

 

[scatpackbee]

Jim are you running this with a 14" 5.5" inch wheel? A buddy of mine has this and has to use 1/8 spacers. A K-H rotor stock is 11" which this is in the kit, my concern is the adapter from the caliper pad holder to the spindle. My other question is do you think these rotors would work on an existing stock K-H system? I have all the factory parts, rotors are shot though.

Where would you find 1/8” 5x4” bolt pattern spacers these days?

 

[junkyardhero]

Where would you find 1/8” 5x4” bolt pattern spacers these days?

probably summit, in metric equivalent.

 

[340sFastback]

You're right, but I'm a big fan of semi metallic pads. About 30 years ago, I had a '73 Charger 400 as a kick around car. The big boss at the time put the kibosh on using company cars for personal reasons. So I picked up this Charger from a kid who worked in the parts department at a DCP dealer. It needed brakes, so I got all brand name Wagner stuff from one of my oil customer's parts store. Pads, rotors, calipers (rebuilt, don't remember by who) hoses, bearings, shoes, drums and wheel cylinders. I was disappointed with the result. My friend said "I told you the semi metallic were better." So I swapped them out. Big difference, just from the pads. The rears were over braking anyway, so I left them alone. What did I know then about adjustable proportioning valves or smaller piston wheel cylinders?
Where I live, I can't drive a mile without someone pulling a dick move. So I'll be using the good pads.

I been running EBC Red brake pads on my original disc brake setup on my '69. Stops good and I don't see any scoring on the rotors. 7/8" rear wheel cylinders help a lot too.

 

[S'cuder]

I been running EBC Red brake pads on my original disc brake setup on my '69. Stops good and I don't see any scoring on the rotors. 7/8" rear wheel cylinders help a lot too.

Thanks! I figured EBC would be the best choice, and the real-world feedback is much appreciated.
I'm running the 7/8" rear wheel cylinders. Yes, very helpful. I have the proportioning valve opened up all the way with no rear wheel lockup.

 

[4mulas]

Where would you find 1/8” 5x4” bolt pattern spacers these days?

5 x 100mm is close to 5x4”. Spacers generally fit a little sloppy so my guess would be that 5x100mm ones would work.
you can probably buy those at any tire shop that sells wheels. They will be able to order for you. Nthat said I doubt anyone makes 1/8” ones. 1/4”-5/16” is likely the thinnest.

or just look on Amazon, this link took me 30 seconds to find Amazon product ASIN B0B4NRVWNS

 

[S'cuder]

I just received an email from Summit saying the new expected ship date is January 16th for the $32 Centric rotors I ordered on August 28th. They asked if I wanted to cancel my back order. This may be the last shot at cheap ones, so I wrote that I'll keep my place in line and continue to wait.

 

[340sFastback]

Thanks! I figured EBC would be the best choice, and the real-world feedback is much appreciated.
I'm running the 7/8" rear wheel cylinders. Yes, very helpful. I have the proportioning valve opened up all the way with no rear wheel lockup.

Yes with my 7/8" rear wheel cylinders I also have proportioning opened all the way up. I have a write up of my brakes on my web site: Barracuda Brakes