Kings Bearings?

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They are some of the best bearings out there. They make all types, not just aluminum.
 
My 408 ran King aluminum rod bearings. After five years they still looked good. The 434 has Kings on both rod and mains. When I need to freshen it we'll see how they look.
 
I'm about ready to order the King coated bearings for my build...have to find someone that has my undersize in stock...or I will have to order them.
 
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Krooser said:
I'm about ready to order the King coated bearings for my build...have to find someone that has my undersize in stock...or I will have to order than.
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I tried to find someone who stocked the 517XP coated mains in a standard size, but had no luck. Ended up using the Clevitte H series I already had.
 
Kings are good. Almost went with them for mine but have clevitte for mains and speed pro competition series for the rods to get the right clearances I needed.
 
I bought 'em. Used a bearing knife to make 'em fit my full radiused crank..... after I found that I had a full radiused crank...Doh!
 
At what performance point (RPM/HP/?) are the more expensive tri-metal or coated bearings required? I'm all for putting the best parts in my motor, but if a $55 silicon-aluminum set will give good results, I prefer to put the savings into other areas. Bearings aren't an area to scrimp on though, obviously.

I need to buy new rod and main bearings for my '70 340 block which just had a cleaning/plugs, hone job, cam bearings and and will be getting new rings and bearings on the stock pistons. I could have kept the mains, but the thrust was just over spec and I didn't want to risk anything.
 
The aluminum bearings are OK for stock replacements. I'll be using the King pMax black in my race motor simply because it gives me peace of mind when used in a less than perfect small block oiling system.
 
clearances and applicable dimensional characteristics are more important than bearing type, get those right and either Bi or Tri metal bearings will live, get those wrong and either bearing material may have problems. A general guideline that I got from one of the PRI show bearing seminars is for steel cranks use Tri metal bearings, for cast cranks use Bi metal bearings.
 
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I just ordered my King bearings from Competition Products today. They don't list my bearings in the catalog but they called King and they had mine in stock. Should have them next week.
 
IIRC enginetech bearings are made by king. They are supposed to be top of the line. King not enginetech. Lol
 
my68barracuda said:
clearances and applicable dimensional characteristics are more important than bearing type, get those right and either Bi or Tri metal bearings will live, get those wrong and either bearing material may have problems. A general guideline that I got from one of the PRI show bearing seminars is for steel cranks use Tri metal bearings, for cast cranks use Bi metal bearings.
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Surprisingly the way the crank is ground and polished makes a difference in which bearing to use too...at least in some circles.
 
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Krooser said:
Surprisingly the way the crank is grounda polished makes a difference in which bearing to use too...at least in some circles.
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interesting, sounds like you know this subject well and it certainly deals with the topic of this post, please tell us more!
 
my68barracuda said:
interesting, sounds like you know this subject well and it certainly deals with the topic of this post, please tell us more!
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I'm no authority... There have been several threads on speed-talk.com about this. One technique for cast one for forged. Not everyone agrees but do search over there and you will get schooled.
 
Krooser said:
I'm no authority... There have been several threads on speed-talk.com about this. One technique for cast one for forged. Not everyone agrees but do search over there and you will get schooled.
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I'm no authority...
that is what I figured,,,when I saw you hit the disagree button and I was only passing on a statement that contained very general information from a PRI show round table discussion of bearing experts from:
King Bearings and Clevite Bearings,,,
 
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my68barracuda said:
I'm no authority...
that is what I figured,,,when I saw you hit the disagree button and I was only passing on a statement that contained very general information from a PRI show round table discussion of bearing experts from:
King Bearings and Clevite Bearings,,,
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I never hit a disagree button...not on purpose anyway.

As far as my King bearing order I was able to order my main bearings in the pmax coated configuration....I think they only had the uncoated for the rods. Still pmax though.

We will see how they work out.
 
To date, the only concern we've tripped across with the use of King bearings is the width of the locator tang on some bearings is slightly too wide for the receiver groove where it's to engage. Some file mods were required.
Jonnylightening said:
I'm getting ready to order new rod and main bearings. What's your take on king's bearings??
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Max1196 said:
To date, the only concern we've tripped across with the use of King bearings is the width of the locator tang on some bearings is slightly too wide for the receiver groove where it's to engage. Some file mods were required.
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Only used them once before myself...no issues.
 
Got them...

IMG_20200807_210731957.jpg
 
pishta said:
I bought 'em. Used a bearing knife to make 'em fit my full radiused crank..... after I found that I had a full radiused crank...Doh!
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A lot less time-consuming to just buy the narrow H bearings from clevite.lol I got two rotating assembly one time while balance with bearings and all that **** and they sent some regular sealed power main bearings. Needless to say it didn't have any end play!

King bearings are okay I guess. I haven't really used any of them. Ive stuck to using clevite and sealed power,engine pro,engine tech on stick stuff.
I can't see why they would be bad.
I may use a set because they're cheap.. but that's the 'end' of the 'why'.

You can go online and get engine pro rod and main Main sets for 54 dollars that are full groove and carry a familiar part number shared by clevite. Quite possible that at this point in the game bearing preferences are just like gasket brand preferences ...it doesn't make any difference. Some things are a "any ole brand will do" deal.
 
Well, I bought the cast crank then bought the proper cast main bearings...but the guy mistakenly sent me a >$800 forged crank (oops!) so my 'stock' King bearings didnt fit the .125 chamfer of the forged crank. After I scratched my head I looked at the part number and SOB, I got the forged crank....lucky me! All this unfolded 6 months after I bought both and had them in the corner waiting for the time to build it.
 
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