Hello, I am looking for suggestions on what would be the best package to put together when shopping for my 1970's 360 small block. The motor came out of a 70's running dodge truck with low miles. The plan is to install the 360 into my 67 valiant. This will be a weekend driver but I would still like to get 350 to 400 hp. Thanks for your help.
LA 360 build
- Thread starter Mymopar67
- Start date
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ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
welcome to the fray - your plan is very doable and you'll find there are many ways to go about it - you'll likely want to go stroked to achieve the 400hp mark - invest a few bucks in a small block performance build book
Fullbore71
Well-Known Member
Welcome Mymopar67
Welcome to FABO...
You have a good plan, but need to know a few things to accomplish it...
You will need to get rid of the oil pan and oil pick-up tube from the truck and get an oil pan and oil pick-up for a car. The hump is in a different location from a car to a truck and you need the proper one so it doesn't hit on the k-frame or steering linkages... You can get new pick-up tubes at Napa, mancini racing, etc for about $20...
Next, you will have to get the old 60's style timing cover and cast iron water pump. They changed in 1970 and made the lower radiator outlet on the water pump go to the other side and moved the timing marks about 90° on the vibration damper to match.
Just run the old timing chain cover with the timing marks, the cast iron water pump, and make a new mark for TDC to match the old timing mark location. To do that, find your true TDC with a piston stop tool, put the engine at TDC and make a mark on the damper to line up with 0° on the old timing marks.
Now you can use a stock v-8 radiator from a 67-69 a-body (Dart, Valiant, Barracuda) and the outlets will match and you can run the proper molded radiator hoses.
If your car has power steering, then the old style power steering mounts off of the cast iron water pump, vs mounting them more off the timing chain cover in the 70's....
Change the rear axle to an 8 1/4" or 8 3/4" axle if it has the old weak suck 7 1/4" standard axle... You will break that old 7 1/4" axle very easy with a stock 360 much less a modified one...
The driver's side motor mount is different on the 340/360 than on the 273/318, you will need to get a driver side bracket for the 360, they are available aftermarket if you can't find a good used one. The passenger side motor mount is the same for all 273/318/340/360 engines.
Use the old style mounts and they will match your k-frame, not the 73 and later spool type motor mounts which will require a 73 or later k-frame to match...
Good luck, let us know if you have any more questions.
I would recommend posting more questions in the Mopar General forum as it gets better visibility there and you may get more answers...
You have a good plan, but need to know a few things to accomplish it...
You will need to get rid of the oil pan and oil pick-up tube from the truck and get an oil pan and oil pick-up for a car. The hump is in a different location from a car to a truck and you need the proper one so it doesn't hit on the k-frame or steering linkages... You can get new pick-up tubes at Napa, mancini racing, etc for about $20...
Next, you will have to get the old 60's style timing cover and cast iron water pump. They changed in 1970 and made the lower radiator outlet on the water pump go to the other side and moved the timing marks about 90° on the vibration damper to match.
Just run the old timing chain cover with the timing marks, the cast iron water pump, and make a new mark for TDC to match the old timing mark location. To do that, find your true TDC with a piston stop tool, put the engine at TDC and make a mark on the damper to line up with 0° on the old timing marks.
Now you can use a stock v-8 radiator from a 67-69 a-body (Dart, Valiant, Barracuda) and the outlets will match and you can run the proper molded radiator hoses.
If your car has power steering, then the old style power steering mounts off of the cast iron water pump, vs mounting them more off the timing chain cover in the 70's....
Change the rear axle to an 8 1/4" or 8 3/4" axle if it has the old weak suck 7 1/4" standard axle... You will break that old 7 1/4" axle very easy with a stock 360 much less a modified one...
The driver's side motor mount is different on the 340/360 than on the 273/318, you will need to get a driver side bracket for the 360, they are available aftermarket if you can't find a good used one. The passenger side motor mount is the same for all 273/318/340/360 engines.
Use the old style mounts and they will match your k-frame, not the 73 and later spool type motor mounts which will require a 73 or later k-frame to match...
Good luck, let us know if you have any more questions.
I would recommend posting more questions in the Mopar General forum as it gets better visibility there and you may get more answers...
I have a few questions for you!
Do you plan on the stock heads?
Do you expect to change the torque converter out for a higher stall unit?
What gear ratio and size tire do you plan to run.
From here I can give you a cam recommendation or two.
Do you plan on the stock heads?
Do you expect to change the torque converter out for a higher stall unit?
What gear ratio and size tire do you plan to run.
From here I can give you a cam recommendation or two.
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