Ladder bars..??..

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I almost bought a roller dart that was a ladder bar setup and some guys smarter than me told me it wouldn't like my manual trans (no not just YR but a few chassis guys) they said four link or caltracs. I agree 99% of the cars at the track are auto and that's why they all have good results and its a cost effective setup that works. I also know Jpar is stubborn and will find a reason to do it anyway if he wants to lol.
 
lead69 said:
I almost bought a roller dart that was a ladder bar setup and some guys smarter than me told me it wouldn't like my manual trans (no not just YR but a few chassis guys) they said four link or caltracs. I agree 99% of the cars at the track are auto and that's why they all have good results and its a cost effective setup that works. I also know Jpar is stubborn and will find a reason to do it anyway if he wants to lol.
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Finally someone who understands me..
I have the slowest stroker on the internet with the longest 60-foot time.. I wasn't really looking for the ultimate in traction I was just wanting what I wanted...
 
j par said:
Finally someone who understands me..
I have the slowest stroker on the internet with the longest 60-foot time.. I wasn't really looking for the ultimate in traction I was just wanting what I wanted...
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Then go to your gold mine and weigh out a few ounces. They'll look tough on your car!
:thumbsup:
 
j par said:
If I got a gold mine then you got a diamond mine LOL...
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Just eliminate the leafs...
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If you're dead set on ladder bars, may I suggest you tub it while your at it.
after you narrow the Dana 60 a Mickey Thompson 29x15.00 -15 ET street for traction.
13 " s of rubber to meet the road for good traction and the old school look.
 
oldkimmer said:
My buddy just took his 4 link out and put in ladder bars. Isn’t that going backwards? Kim
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Way WAY backwards, unless he didn’t learn how to tune a 4 link. If he doesn’t know how to select an IC and tune with shocks then he made a step forward.
 
Idk his tuning skill on the 4 link. Idk who helped him. I was shocked to see he changed it. It was kinda a secret I guess. The way I found out was I went to his pace to build a race 727 for him. When I asked he said ladder bars are better. Idk who he talked to or how he came to that conclusion. Kim
 
NOPE don't think i have dabbled in this one at all.......................if im going to the expense of a chassis overhaul it will be a 4 link. Can't afford either one!!!!1
 
Cudafever said:
NOPE don't think i have dabbled in this one at all.......................if im going to the expense of a chassis overhaul it will be a 4 link. Can't afford either one!!!!1
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Contrary to popular belief I'm not trying to build the ultimate drag car LOL I just like old school stuff and stuff that I think is cool and fun.. just trying to keep my hobby interesting not trying to impress the trailer Queens... (You know the type alcohol burning trailer only...)
And I don't want to hear it I use a trailer half the time as well but mostly out of convenience or if my wife wants to go she doesn't like driving in the car she prefers air conditioning....
 
Hmmm a alcoholic trailer Queens........sounds scary...............:p
 
I was wondering about length of the ladder bars? I noticed most come in about 33 inch or so.. also I noticed if you punching a Mopar specifically in the summit catalog you don't come up with anything but universal stuff.. i.e. mostly made for Chevy and Ford LOL..
I like the idea of possibly making my own as I'd like that old-school girder kind of look... I would like to make them a little longer to make them more visible and definitely have them connect from the bottom of the axle... Kind of like those homemade ones that 318 showed in the video... Maybe purchasing the front crash bar and the floating axle brackets...
I could make the girders in between spell jpar LOL or Mopar... Driving the cool factor way up LOL...
 
There was a formula based on the wheelbase/weight distribution of the car to give you an approximate length for the ladder bars- I'm not coming up with anything on a quick Google search, so I'll see if I can come up with something out of my 30+ year old notebooks, if I can find them... or if I can find an old copy of the chassis manual. Hope you're not in a hurry... :)
 
Cudafever said:
But i am! the only problem is that my budget keep taking the ultimate out of my Car:D
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that's why I quit going that direction I never see myself having the kind of money it takes to Race season after season like that and besides that I'm not one who takes the heat very well as far as sitting out on the blacktop all day long for three or four passes... That's why I prefer my snowmobile it's constant horsepower and action all day long....
 
Professor Fate said:
There was a formula based on the wheelbase/weight distribution of the car to give you an approximate length for the ladder bars- I'm not coming up with anything on a quick Google search, so I'll see if I can come up with something out of my 30+ year old notebooks, if I can find them... or if I can find an old copy of the chassis manual. Hope you're not in a hurry... :)
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That's totally cool! Absolutely no hurry lol just formulating an idea for next winter's project when the car is down for some time... Thank you:thumbsup:...
 
j par said:
I was wondering about length of the ladder bars? I noticed most come in about 33 inch or so.. also I noticed if you punching a Mopar specifically in the summit catalog you don't come up with anything but universal stuff.. i.e. mostly made for Chevy and Ford LOL..
I like the idea of possibly making my own as I'd like that old-school girder kind of look... I would like to make them a little longer to make them more visible and definitely have them connect from the bottom of the axle... Kind of like those homemade ones that 318 showed in the video... Maybe purchasing the front crash bar and the floating axle brackets...
I could make the girders in between spell jpar LOL or Mopar... Driving the cool factor way up LOL...
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Used to be you could buy a 30 or 32 ladder bar. The biggest issue is they are way too short for most everything, and that makes them pound the tire harder. And the IC is too high.

Like I’ve said, as power goes up, the IC needs to be lower and further forward. I’ve seen some traction limited big HP stuff with the IC 120 inches out and at zero above the ground to get them to hook.

With the ladder bar you are always at 32 inches out and then however far off the ground depends on the chassis, where the crossmember is located in the car, how many holes and on what center they are on, and the diameter of the holes.

Of you like the for the cool factor then go for it. Just make sure you use a housing floater if you keep the leaf springs and I’d want to add sliders to the rear to help with binding.

You do have the CT so you can slow the hit down some with clutch application. And...you know me and abusing dead horses...you should have DA shocks.
 
yellow rose said:
Used to be you could buy a 30 or 32 ladder bar. The biggest issue is they are way too short for most everything, and that makes them pound the tire harder. And the IC is too high.

Like I’ve said, as power goes up, the IC needs to be lower and further forward. I’ve seen some traction limited big HP stuff with the IC 120 inches out and at zero above the ground to get them to hook.

With the ladder bar you are always at 32 inches out and then however far off the ground depends on the chassis, where the crossmember is located in the car, how many holes and on what center they are on, and the diameter of the holes.

Of you like the for the cool factor then go for it. Just make sure you use a housing floater if you keep the leaf springs and I’d want to add sliders to the rear to help with binding.

You do have the CT so you can slow the hit down some with clutch application. And...you know me and abusing dead horses...you should have DA shocks.
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I'll have them so long and so far forward I won't be able to get my torsion bars out LOL...
 
Some of them old gassers had pretty long bars....


You need to start on that Studebaker!
 
Mopar Sam said:
Some of them old gassers had pretty long bars....


You need to start on that Studebaker!
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I ended up selling it a couple months ago.. just never felt like I was going to get around to it soon enough. Also it was always intended to be a restomod of some sort not a drag car or a gasser. Don't get me wrong I think it would have made an awesome Gasser but that was never in the plan...
I've said it before if I had the cojones I'd do it to the Duster..
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Question still remains if I left the leaf springs on would I want to even them out instead of having the 002's and the 003's?... What I want to order just one more of the other?...
 
j par said:
Question still remains if I left the leaf springs on would I want to even them out instead of having the 002's and the 003's?... What I want to order just one more of the other?...
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I’d take enough leaves out to get the back end down a bit. Then fit your housing floaters and sliders and weld in the crossmember and order your shocks.







I know...abusing horse corpses again. I like redundancy.
 
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