Larger T-bar suggestions?

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I ended up popping for the mopar performance .920 bars. That's the largest
Summit had (I know I know) and I had a deal from them and needed some
other crap so it seemed to make sense. I think the .920's should be a nice
upgrade from the stock .870's and the bars were so close to the Doug's
header pipes (really close!) that the smaller change should not cause me
and grief.
 
I am planing a 440 for my 72 Dart from the 225. I prefer a higher stance for the car. I was wondering how the torsion bars being discussed work on the higher riding cars with bigger motors?

The 1" and bigger bars, how do they do with the heavier front? I like a stiff front end, but don't quite want a log wagon, would like have some suggestions.

I have included a couple pics, the low front is the before, and the high pic is about where I am shooting for. I understand I am going in a direction most won't like as for height and stance, it is just what I like.

The rear will be up a few inches after I connect the subframes, and inset and replace the leaf springs. I am also goin to stetch the wheel base an inch, maybe 2 when I inset the rear springs, I am gonna do a different way of setting the front spring mount that doesn't comprimise the original frames integrity but adds to it, to make it stronger. I have all the welding, milling, sawing equipment to handle it with out having to buy off the self.

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Thanks

Stu

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Stu,

Your looking for a gasser type look then right? And I'm assuming this is a drag oriented car rather then a cornering car?
As you can see on the chart on the first page, the Highest wheel rate available is 350# per inch. Which is probably a little stiff. I'd go with the 1.090 or the 1.040 which should be just right for a 440 and a stiff front end. you should be able to get the height you want with the t-bar adjustment.

hope this helps,

Benjamin
 
Exactly, gasser look with out the straight axle. The straight axle wouldn't be driveable every day if need be. I have decided to do the rear fender wells so I can get some bigger skins in the back. I was thinking 1 inch bars just looking for feedback.


Thanks
 
wrastu,

The .99 bars should work great. Remember that all these rates are wheel rates and therefore much stiffer than a coil spring of the same stiffness would be on something else, as there are no linkage ratios to mess stuff up. So 200#inch is Plenty!

Hope this helps!

Benjamin
 
Will probably go with the .990 or 1.00 t bars, still gathering parts for the big change, got the 8.75 rear, springs, k-member (the one in the car has a strut rod problem, looks like someone hit something and they welded up the k and did a shitty job of it), even found some 14x10 cragars for the rear, have some et's for the front or the slots on it already for time being. Still got a lot to collect yet though.

Stu
 
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