For fuel injection you need about 43 psi of pressure .
Last one to post in this thread wins!
- Thread starter oldkid
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Agreed but pouring gas down the throat of it kind of by passes all of that. Its just a electronically controlled carburetor if you ask me.
The last 80 something dodge I had after pressure washing did the same thing and after it all dried out would start and run fine. But that was a long time ago and can't remember if it was a distributor problem or someplace in the under hood wiring.
Hey guys not a peep outa anybody at work today , now back to your prolbem , I want you to cycle the key 3 times on the third cycle leave it in the run position , the engine light will flash short and long flashes let me know the codes , the early fuel injection was low pressure , cam sensor is in the distributor, crank sensor is on the back of the block top of the transmission, could be the asd relay ?
code 42 Biff 12 42 55 to be exact. Had the bat disconnected.
42 is the one your after , 12 is battery disconnected, 55 is end of codes ,
Ya 42 is the ASD swaped it with the ac relay to no avail,
ASD relay code , there is a red and white wire in the harness that runs by the water bottle it splices two into one check for crosion
It was more common on Dakotas but the wire supply’s power to the relay
Washer bottle I ment
I had my wife cycle the ignition and I can feel the relays energies.
Ok give me a minute.
I'm thinking cam sensor in the distributor but getting conflicting info as to it even having that in a 1990 model.
1. Check the AC voltage from the pick-up in the distributor, it should be a minimum of 300 mV AC. It's best to do this at the electronic ignition control unit on the Grey and Brown wires.
2. Next check the power supply to the ignition control unit on the Red wire with the key on. The ignition control unit is case grounded.
3. Check the power at the coil on the Pink wire, voltage should be 6-8 volts at key on, and jump to 12 volts during cranking. Next check the resistance of the coil driver wire between the coil and the ignition control unit on the Black/Yellow wire.
2. Next check the power supply to the ignition control unit on the Red wire with the key on. The ignition control unit is case grounded.
3. Check the power at the coil on the Pink wire, voltage should be 6-8 volts at key on, and jump to 12 volts during cranking. Next check the resistance of the coil driver wire between the coil and the ignition control unit on the Black/Yellow wire.
Wait one minute I got the wrong year .
Okay got my head spinning a little Biff. I appreciate the help. No voltage to the coil with key on but I think the ASD limits that until cranking so have not checked that too well. I have other commitments so no real time to work on it currently. You hooked up with alldata?
Yes well identafix through Napa.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Good morning
Morning guys. Looked outside and black as the Ace of Spades. Our province is looking at not changing clocks twice a year. I think it's a great idea myself.
Got a young guy coming over today with his dad. He's got a 67 GTX 440 and built it himself with his dads help of course. He's 20 yrs old and think he has some autism or something. He's a real Mopar nut and he knows his stuff. He has a leak at the windshield so going to fix that for him NO CHARGE of course.
Got a young guy coming over today with his dad. He's got a 67 GTX 440 and built it himself with his dads help of course. He's 20 yrs old and think he has some autism or something. He's a real Mopar nut and he knows his stuff. He has a leak at the windshield so going to fix that for him NO CHARGE of course.
Must be jelly cause jam don't shake like that. Maybe silicone but then again who cares
Crank it up guys.
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