Later Voltage regulator on 1963 Valiant????

[xLURKxDOGx]

Is it possible to add a 71 and later voltage regulator on a 1963 valiant? It appears the wire colors(Green/Blue) are identical to the later with the exception of the plug. Can i cut and splice to make this work? Is it better than the ones it came with???


Thanks,

Jake

 

[67Dart273]

You need a 70 and later alternator. The later alternator has two field connections. These are often improperly called out as "dual field" the proper term is "isolated field"

Whether you use the later VR or not you should get a late enough alternator that it's a "squareback" instead of a roundback

The type on the left is what you want

The basic difference in wiring is that a second wire must be added. Switched 12V "ignition run" must be run to the second field connection on the alternator

 

[xLURKxDOGx]

You need a 70 and later alternator. The later alternator has two field connections. These are often improperly called out as "dual field" the proper term is "isolated field"

Whether you use the later VR or not you should get a late enough alternator that it's a "squareback" instead of a roundback

The type on the left is what you want

The basic difference in wiring is that a second wire must be added. Switched 12V "ignition run" must be run to the second field connection on the alternator

Ok, ive got the later alternator but ive grounded it to itself. Now, whats the best way to add that second wire???

Thanks!!!

Jake

 

[67Dart273]

You need to tap into the same "ignition run" coming out of the bulkhead that feeds to the ballast and to the original IGN terminal of the old regulator.

Now is a good time to check out voltage drop in the ignition circuit, which is a big problem in these girls. This causes a lot of overcharging problems. The usual suspects are the bulkhead connector, the ammeter and terminals, the ignition switch and the switch connector, and in rare cases, the "welded splice" in the black ammeter wire.

One way of "fixing" that is to cut the "ignition run" wire out of the bulkhead, use the end out of the bulkhead to trigger a relay, and feed the output of the relay to the other cut end of that wire. You can pull power off the starter relay stud, through a fuse,/ breaker.

 

[xLURKxDOGx]

You need to tap into the same "ignition run" coming out of the bulkhead that feeds to the ballast and to the original IGN terminal of the old regulator.

Now is a good time to check out voltage drop in the ignition circuit, which is a big problem in these girls. This causes a lot of overcharging problems. The usual suspects are the bulkhead connector, the ammeter and terminals, the ignition switch and the switch connector, and in rare cases, the "welded splice" in the black ammeter wire.

One way of "fixing" that is to cut the "ignition run" wire out of the bulkhead, use the end out of the bulkhead to trigger a relay, and feed the output of the relay to the other cut end of that wire. You can pull power off the starter relay stud, through a fuse,/ breaker.

Thats a great idea, thanks again for the invaluable info. Ill look into that this weekend.


Jake

 

[BillGrissom]

No need to use a later Vreg since you can get an electronic type that works with your wiring and connectors. Check rockauto. I bought for $11.

But, yes you can upgrade to the later Vreg. To do so, you need to wire +12 V (key switched )to the alternator. Don't use the IGN wire (coil+) since that is after the ballast and runs ~9 V w/ key in "run". I did so in my 1965 Dart, mounting the Vreg beside the alternator. I use HEI ignition on that engine so 12 V was nearby.

Finally the why. Early Vreg used "high-side control", so other end of field was grounded. Later Vreg used "low-side control", with other side at +12 V. The did that because electronics at the time couldn't do high-side switching. Current Mopars still use low-side field control.