LCA Bushing Replacement

[BillGrissom]

Renewing the suspension on my 64 Valiant, so thought nice to share info. In the past, I always took my control arms to a shop to have bushings changed (Newport, Dart), but shops are now rare and I have a 12-ton shop press (Harbor Freight), so decided to try myself.

The LCA's were toughest. The innards pressed out easy, indeed not much rubber left in one. In the other, my shop press rod pushed out the pivot pin, and replaced it snugly in the rubber, so had to use a puller to get the LCA off my press. The problem is the outer bushing shell is left in the LCA and the inner bushing shell is stuck on the pivot pin.

Switching to poly bushings would be easy, since you just slip the poly in and reuse the bushing shells without removing them. Many opinions on that, decide for yourself from FABO posts:

www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=185594
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=152308&highlight=bushings
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=151690&highlight=bushings
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=150378&highlight=bushings
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=133582&highlight=bushings

I didn't want the risk & cost of poly and already had new rubber LCA bushings (~$9 ea Autozone). The first outer shell I removed by chiseling it inwards and running a small chisel (or nail set) down the gap. That was difficult since fairly thick and I broke off a few chisel tips knocking them sideways. On the 2nd shell, I got smarter and used a saber saw to cut a slot mostly thru. A standard blade is the perfect length. You still need to run a chisel down to break it at the bottom, but the slot makes that trivial. Photos below. An American Muscle tool ($41, photo) grabs the inner shell at the gap in the bottom (if lucky), giving you something to pull on, but I am too cheap and wasn't convinced it would work.

In removing the inner shells from the pivot pins, I didn't learn much and tried chiseling off the first one. I folded it out just enough so I could apply torque with a pipe wrench, but had to hold the pin with another pipe wrench. I was barely able to start turning it, and with penetrant was able to get it turning easy and work it off. I gouged the pin a bit with the wrench, but filed it clean. Still, I will be embarrassed if anyone eyeballs my pivot pins in the future. On the second one, I used the saber saw trick, though harder to get a groove started on the concave surface. It then peeled off easy. I cut into the pin a bit. Good I'm not working on someone else's car because they would make me buy new pivot pins ($80/pair).

Removing the UCA bushings was fairly easy. I couldn't easily use the shop press because you must push from the inside. Instead, I made a puller from pipe spacers I had lying around. I show a photo of a slicker tool by other FABO members (Brad426, mopardude318 ) and store-bought tools (American Muscle & Miller Special Tools). I did have trouble with one bushing that wouldn't pull thru until I noticed it had a pressed-on collar that was bottoming out (seen that?). I was able to push it back enough to hacksaw the shell below the collar. I haven't pressed my new bushings in yet, but should be easy with the shop press. Pulling is much harder, especially with nothing to grab hold of.

 

[oldkimmer]

............Good job...............kim.........

 

[ESP47]

Thanks for the write up. I'm going to be trying to do my LCA bushings for the first time this weekend. Hopefully it goes smoothly and doesn't turn into one of those two week long headaches.

 

[BillGrissom]

Good luck. I haven't pressed the new bushings in yet since still prepping for paint. My LCA's had only slight surface rust, while the UCA's were rusty around the pivots. I want to paint all my suspension, steering, and brake parts together since using a sprayer.

I noticed "rust lines" in the same places on my 65 Dart. It looks like the factory masked off sections that weren't painted, like the outer ends of the LCA's and the top of the brake pedal. The brake pedal bracket was very rusty in 3 cars I have seen, and these in CA. It looks like the factory didn't even paint it. I wonder if one has ever broken in the rust-belt, since fairly thin sheet metal. A scary thought.

 

[OLDFARTSDART]

Bill,
I made up some home made tools as pictured in your post.uca bushings Came apart easy, had to change the all thread a couple of times, used 1/2 in SS all thread. Just reversed the process to put the new one in. The lca I used my buddies press. You had a great idea

 

[My*65*Dart]

When I changed my bushings the rubber was so bad it just ripped out then I drove a chisel in like you did in four different spots to bend it in.Then it was loose enough that it came out easy. I replaced everything on my front end. It's a ***** of a job but you sure do feel good once it's done! Also did my own front end alignment. Used the triple bubble vial type gauge and set the caster and camber up for radial tires. over 2500 miles on it and tires are wearing even and it handles great!!​

 

[BillGrissom]

I also started doing my own front end alignments, but just with a 4 ft level for camber and a tape measure for toe-in (measure front & rear treads). I just set caster at the max I can (rear UCA all the way in), while maintaining camber (adjust front UCA). The factory spec has the tires leaning out at the top a bit (positive camber) which seems stupid and looks funny, so I set them to lean in ~1/2". Many don't know that toe-in changes with vehicle height, so you need to regularly check it as the suspension sags (and adjust height). That is more important than whether you use a shop.

Too many times I paid $$ at an alignment shop and was never sure they did anything. I was sure K-mart didn't on my 69 Dart when I took it there after an outer tie rod end came loose. Another shop later found the threads were stripped (hitting railroad tracks too hard, dumF kid then), so I know K-mart didn't touch it. I later read they just sprayed carb cleaner as their "timing belt special". Today most alignment shops whine "your car isn't in the computer". I only trust shops now to change tires and I bring the wheels to them (too many stripped studs by monkeys) and they still FU like loose/steal my center caps if I don't notice.

I started my own alignments after our minivan front was smashed on the side and I had to get it back on the road, after a bunch of "can't fix it" crap from shops and a year waiting on insurance. I put a new strut on and filed the slot to get the wheel more vertical, but it still leaned in too much. Still, I was surprised that it drove straight on the highway with minimal tire wear. I set toe-in by sighting along a 2x4 at the rear tire so it matched the other side. I later pushed the front end back with a Harbor Freight porta ram and got the camber OK. That was 85,000 miles ago.

 

[AlV]

I did have trouble with one bushing that wouldn't pull thru until I noticed it had a pressed-on collar that was bottoming out (seen that?). I was able to push it back enough to hacksaw the shell below the collar.

Hi Bill,

I just pulled the bushings from my UCAs and noticed the collar on mine also. Specifically one bushing of each arm had it.

I presume it's for stiffening and support of the bushing but don't know for sure what they are for.

Do you (or anyone have more information about them)? I'm wondering if they should be reinstalled.

Thanks
-AlV

 

[crackedback]

Hi Bill,

I just pulled the bushings from my UCAs and noticed the collar on mine also. Specifically one bushing of each arm had it.

I presume it's for stiffening and support of the bushing but don't know for sure what they are for.

Do you (or anyone have more information about them)? I'm wondering if they should be reinstalled.

Thanks
-AlV

I don't reinstall those collars.

 

[AlV]

Okay.. Thanks for the info.
I thought it was old that only one of the bushings on each arm had them.

 

[john27pa]

those collars were for loose fitting bushings. You may or may not need to reuse them. If I remember correctly-mine had 1 on it- the control arm hole was a bit over size and that collar basically was a press fit to snug in the bushing. Kind of like an unthreaded nut. A tightening collar if you will.

 

[2 Darts]

When I can get access, I prefer to use a press. For the longest time I had access to a 20 ton hydraulic. There was nothing that could stand up to it. It would often leave both the bushing and the control arm hot to the touch. I have a rig like the one with the bolt going through it that I like. Never stumped using it on UCA but have had problems using it on stubborn LCA bushings.

For those who subscribe to the "When all else fails, violence prevails" way of doing things, here's a bushing removal technique that's sure to please. This technique is very useful when the replacement requires the use of the old shell. Simply burn the rubber out with a torch. See cautions below. If the old shell is not needed, use a cape chisel to split the shell. This is good practice for replacing wheel bearings in a 7¼" rear end. lol

• Do not do this inside a building or garage. [fumes, fire hazard]
• Stand up wind. [fumes]
• Use a heavy work glove or a stand to hold the control arm [burn via heat transfer]
• Burn from the top down. [burn via molten rubber sometimes flaming molten rubber]
• Keep bucket of water handy. [fire control, place to dunk hand)
• Use aluminum foil under work for dripping. [speeds clean up]

I have learned these things the hard way so you don't have to.