lca bushing sleeve removal ?????

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Ok, so I took apart the k-frame assembly today to ready everything for powder coating, removed the lca's, got the pivot pins out, but cannot figure out how to get the bushing sleeve out of the lca. i've attached pics of the new bushings and sleeves, and the old sleeves, the rubber bushings are already out. Any ideas of an easy way to remove the old sleeves???? Any and all ideas would be deeply appreciated.

FF
 

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As you'll see in the thread posted by 72BBSwinger there are two ways to do this, I ended up using both when I did mine. I first tried the welded washer trick but I ended up just breaking the bushing off at the welds. I then took my jig saw and broke the blade to the right length to get a cut in the sleeve and folded it up with an air chisel. My second arm I welded all the way around the bushing and pulled it out with a bolt. The welding is easier but cutting and bending works too, just do what you are comfortable with.
 
I use a huge tap-- put a large washer in 1st-- thread the shell & press it out. Works -- great tap size was listed in my 62 fsm & the local surplus store had it for $8.00. Lawrence
 
Thanks Guys, I went out and in less than an hour, had both sleeves out. I tried the air chisel route, but to no avail, so I took a regular old chisel, got the rim on the sleeve more to the center of the opening, and then tried to find something that would fit between the sleeve and the outer opening in the LCA. Well, it was my trusty old Craftsman screwdriver/chisel(haha). I hammered it down betwixt the two, then used the other chisel to rip the metal, until I reached the bottom and it lifted out with a pair of channel locks.

Now, though, I have a trip to make to Sears this week to get the screwdriver replaced under warranty, along with a 3/8 drive ratchet that I also multi purposed and now it ratchets neither way.

Oh, my thumb is sore now, too, as the ball peen hammer kinda missed the screwdriver on occasion

FF
 

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Looks good, I tried to bring mine in when I was having the Upper control arm bushings pressed and they had no idea what to do with those sleeves.
 
Cut mine with a sawsall and pushed right out with air hammer in like 5 minutes.
 
I used the washer from the top of the front shock absorer (a body). Do not use a washer that is galvanized. It screws with the welding. I used my old lincoln flux core mig welder and welded all the way around with 030 wire. If necessary, trim the outside diameter with a grinder (or whatever) so that it fits good to have good weldment. I trimmed mine til it almost wanted to fall into the sleeve. It;s easier to weld this way also.
So far I have done 3 sets and have have good sucess except for the 1 that I prev. mentioned when I used the galv washer. Then I actually ruined that arm cause I tried to use a torch and found out how thin the metal is in the arm. (oh well, experience!!)
 
Yes, it's very dangerous. If the right gasses come together, it can actually create a crude form of mustard gas similar to what was used on troops in WWI. My father in law got into it welding and sustained some pretty heavy neurological damage. Took him years to recover. Good ventilation is the key and sometimes that's still not enough. Best bet is to not weld galvanized at all.
 
Just pushed out the bushing with a press today. Welding that washer on there is the best way to go. Had them both done in 10 minutes.
 
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