Lead body work

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I used that kit. Glad I did it, but it is work compared to plastic, but I felt it was
A- much stronger
B- really the right way to do it
BUT
I was working with a rotisserie, so it was easier to keep the hot expensive Liquid Metal from ending up on the floor.
Knowing how to solder wires, I felt working with it at butter consistency was the equivalent of a cold solder joint.
EDIT: I don’t recall if I used a lead free kit, or if it was leaded.
 
I recommend you do research on lead poisoning, and use appropriate breathing protection. I've soldered electronics on and off hobby and otherwise most of my life. Not quite so cavalier as I used to be.
 
What Del said above. I forgot about that part, I got a decent quality respirator, made sure I had fans moving the air away from me and Did most of the work outside.
 
I’ve used that kit.

First, the new stuff is pretty much all “lead free”. So the lead poisoning risk is very different than the stuff that was used “back in the day”. You should still use all the appropriate precautions and protection according to the instructions. And of course if you’re removing the original stuff, that will have a much higher lead content and you should take the appropriate precautions.

The Eastwood kit is easier to use than real lead, having used both. It has some of its own characteristics, but it’s fairly easy to do small areas like the body seams and things that were done by the factory. I used it when I replaced the tail panel on my Duster and will no doubt be using it again when I do the quarters on my Challenger.

It’s expensive stuff by volume, but it’s s far superior way to do the body seams compared to most of the body fillers out there.
 
There are a couple of Gene Winfield leading instructional videos on YouTube. You would be hard pressed to find someone with more leading experience than him.
 
I bought some tinning flux from lowes, some lard, choreboy copper scrubby, made a wooden spreader and used old lead
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I used it to fill a couple long partial quarter panel seams. One panel was stepped, the other fit into it and was welded but the fit up wasn't as tight as I like, which is to have the weld fill the gap. So I felt this long thin line would probably show through regular filler. It worked good but sure is a lot more work than using fiberglass reinforced filler. I ditto the comment on the Gene Winfield video...could not have done it without that instructional lesson.
 
Thanks all.

And yes the lead health concern part and proper PPE is a good note and I've got that covered.

Thanks
 
If you do some leading send Pics. You may want to fab up some wooden paddles that will fit your needs.
 
Kendog 170 said:
If you do some leading send Pics. You may want to fab up some wooden paddles that will fit your needs.
Click to expand...

The kit includes some paddles that work ok. The paddles are of course brand new so if you’re using those you may want to apply several rounds of the “paddle lube” because the new paddles will soak it up and you want a good coating on the paddles to make them easier to work with.

I used an old paddle that has decades worth of beeswax on it
 
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