leaf spring hanger question

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my68barracuda

my68barracuda

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setting up to put an 8.75 and new rear leafs on the 68 barracuda

got the car up on lifts and soaking every fastener I can see with PB Blaster
question,, on the leaft spring hangers,,

On the front hanger bracket I can see the threads on the leading side,, fastener looks to be a pressed in stud,, important fact is I can get to both sides, if I need to drill the fastener out, I can do that.

The rear shackel bracket does not look as friendly,, I can see the hex side of the bolt,, but not the wrinkles,,
Is there a weld nut on the back side?
I am thinking of drilling an access hole in the trunk floor to at least get some penetrating oil on the threads,, If nothing else, If I end up drilling those bolts out, will need access to get a nut on,,

Or do these normally thread off OK,, or is there a better solution for the rear shackel bracket?

thanks
 
my68barracuda said:
setting up to put an 8.75 and new rear leafs on the 68 barracuda

got the car up on lifts and soaking every fastener I can see with PB Blaster
question,, on the leaft spring hangers,,

On the front hanger bracket I can see the threads on the leading side,, fastener looks to be a pressed in stud,, important fact is I can get to both sides, if I need to drill the fastener out, I can do that.

The rear shackel bracket does not look as friendly,, I can see the hex side of the bolt,, but not the wrinkles,,
Is there a weld nut on the back side?
I am thinking of drilling an access hole in the trunk floor to at least get some penetrating oil on the threads,, If nothing else, If I end up drilling those bolts out, will need access to get a nut on,,

Or do these normally thread off OK,, or is there a better solution for the rear shackel bracket?

thanks
Click to expand...


If your working on an A body you should be able lubricate the threads on the front and back of the brackets. The front brackets do have pressed in studs with nuts on them. The rear brackets are held on by 2 bolts each that stick out on the backside so they can also be lubricated before removal.

Treblig
 
If you have the fuel tank removed use some heat on them to remove them
 
"working on an A body "

yes, a 68 barracuda,,
on the rear,, the bracket that holds the shackels,,
I see the hex side of the bolts,, but the threaded end of the fastener is boxed inside the frame work,, I'll take another look, hoping you are right..
 
my68barracuda said:
"working on an A body "

yes, a 68 barracuda,,
on the rear,, the bracket that holds the shackels,,
I see the hex side of the bolts,, but the threaded end of the fastener is boxed inside the frame work,, I'll take another look, hoping you are right..
Click to expand...


If I remember correctly you have to shoot the lube through holes in the box frame??

Treblig
 
On the rear shackle mount on a 67-9 Cuda, the bolts thread into a captured thread, so getting to them from the backside is not really an option! Just take your time and they'll probably come right out, I believe they are 3/8" threads!
 
There are a few different parts here.....picts would help. But in the absence of pictures, I will tell you:

The front hanger bracket is has 4 forward facing studs that slip through holes in a flat, double thickness area to the outboards side of the frame rails. Remove 4 nuts (with captive washers).

The rear hanger is attached to the frame with 2 - bolts (5/16 or 3/8 x1" or so). They are diag. to eachother. There is threaded section in the "box" that the bolts thread into. Remove the 2 bolts. squirting in PB blaster into the box is your best option. You can't see them, so blast away more than you normally would!

The shackle (if OEM), has 2 nuts on each side. remove the nuts then the side of the shackle slips off the fixed shackle pins that are welded to the otherside vert. leg of the shackle.

the front spring eye has one nut/bolt assy. I think its 1/2 of later A's, might be 7/16s on early As (not sure exacty...but might even be diff. between A/B/E bodies!)

They ALL suck to get out. even the "removable" shackle bushing sometimes need to be burnt out! what a mess........
 
Cosgig,,,

the 8.75 going in is the one I bought from you a couple of years ago,,has the 742 large yoke center section,, cone sure grip..
I am rebuilding the center section,, all new bearings,, the the cones had not bottomed out, they were within .012 or so,, so I had them cut .030,,

for the hanger bolts,,I looked again,, for the rear hangers there is a access opening on the bottom side of the frame box,, I can use an inspection mirror to get a look at the threads,,

I am changing out the fuel tank,, so will remove that first,,

thanks all for the ideas.
 
hopefully you have air tools-- on the rear 2 bolts if they get tight when removing-- stop--wire brush if possible/ spray your penetrant of choice/ tighten then reverse --repeat until loose. Lawrence
 
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