Leak between motor and trans at a mounting bolt

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67dart_drop_top

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Anyone ever have a leak at a tranny bolt near the oil filter? I just dropped the engine and then mated it to the transmission. My guess: I might have torqued the left side down too tight before getting the right. Sound possible? Anything else?

Also, I had thes parts left over. The top two nuts go to the exhaust. I accidentally used regular nuts. I believe the large lock washers go to the motor mounts, correct? Should the two small lock washers go to the starter?

I had about a hundred small parts and fasteners labeled, but something happened to mess up the system. I feel fortunate that it was not worse.
 
Forgot the pic.

image.jpeg
 
Look at the oil filter adapter, rear of valve cover, rear of intake, oil sender. Oil leaks can migrate and not always come from where they seem.
 
Anyone ever have a leak at a tranny bolt near the oil filter? I just dropped the engine and then mated it to the transmission. My guess: I might have torqued the left side down too tight before getting the right. Sound possible? Anything else?

Also, I had thes parts left over. The top two nuts go to the exhaust. I accidentally used regular nuts. I believe the large lock washers go to the motor mounts, correct? Should the two small lock washers go to the starter?

I had about a hundred small parts and fasteners labeled, but something happened to mess up the system. I feel fortunate that it was not worse.
U may have a leaky freeze plug in the back of the block. What color is the fluid that's leaking?
 
Teflon tape has no place on automobiles, as it can/will shred when eventually disassembled, and if the threads of that junk get into the bearings or oil pump you'll have an even bigger problem. Use the liquid teflon pipe dope on the sender.
 
Teflon tape has no place on automobiles, as it can/will shred when eventually disassembled, and if the threads of that junk get into the bearings or oil pump you'll have an even bigger problem. Use the liquid teflon pipe dope on the sender.
why you sposed to properly clean stuff when ya take it apart,...tape worked fine for decades before the paste was even thought off,..but i agree the paste is lot easyer and works better,..ant gotta remember to wrap it right way so it wont unwound trying to start threads!! way threads cut the tape and fill the threads was a big bonus on truck air systems to keep all them brass air line fittings from leaking threw the threads, was real high tech stuff 50 years ago,..but we have evolved...lol
 
All of the aftermarket replacement senders I've purchased recently had a red color sealant painted on the threads right outa the box. Nothing more req'd.
Plus the leak was from the sender construction/assembly and not the threads.
 
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I think I remember the red stuff, now that you mention it. But it looks like that is where the leak is originating. It is tight, so dang if I know??? Did not stay long looking at it, so I will have to get back to it.
 
I had a 79 300 w/360 I bought years, ago and it had an oil pressure problem. The first thing I did, was pull the sender. Somebody had wrapped the threads wrong w/Teflon tape, and a piece of tape was covering the inlet passage in the bottom of the fitting end like a check valve.
If you are determined to use Teflon tape, I suggest wrapping the threads in the correct direction, AND holding your first tape wrap back a thread or two from the fitting end.
 
Thanks, but there was some red goop on the end, and it sealed fine. It was the distributor. When I adjusted the timing I did not tighten it down. And since I had pulled it out, it was not fully seated. Luckily , the shaft did not slip up and pop out.

I know about making sure to turn the tape in the right direction, but I never heard about leaving a bare thread. I will start doing that.
 
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