Leaking Gas from 1973 Dodge Dart

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SputnikOne

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Hey all, figured I'd just make a new thread for my other issue with the Dart, there's a gas leak between the filter and the tank in the engine bay and it drips constantly, Id like some help figuring out how to fix this and what part it might be.

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That filter is not factory. I'd start with a new METAL filter and some "real" clamps, AKA worm drive. Wix 33031 is 5/16 metal, if the store does not have Wix they should be able to cross that number
 
Yeah, the hose clamps kind of gave it away, going underway for a bit though so it's probably gonna be completely empty when I return.
 
Figured I'd bump this thread, just got back from being underway.

Car wasn't dripping when I checked on it after about a week, not sure when it stopped.

Soon as I turned the key and started the pump the leak returned, I assume the fuel filter is draining back down the line.

Took some videos and pictures to hopefully help you guys help me figure out just what is leaking here, this whole area of the fuel line looks like second hand work.



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There is three main drips, one from the hose, and two from the silver can as seen here.

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What is all that mess under there?

You have so many connectors and little pieces of hose. None of that is supposed to be there.

That's supposed to be a single length of steel line.

I'd tear it all out, relocate the components to sensible places, and start from there.

– Eric
 
I would put a new stock pump on it and get rid of all that mess under there. Way to much going on under there.
 
Properly done fittings with clamps, proper hose, proper size, etc, DO NOT LEAK

How much pressure is that pump putting out?

Mess or no mess, you should be able to plumb it so it does not leak

Decades ago, when the chineseoizationosized really REALLY got under way, a then annoying boss I had ordered in a HUGE roll of 3/8 "multipurpose hose." Supposed to be good for fuel, air, oil, etc. It was mostly plastic, which got harder when cold. That crap slipped off clamped, barbed fittings faster than you could put them back on. You make up an air hose with crimped sleeves, and with a little use and flexing, the hose would blow right off
 
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green circles: fuel filters. you only need one. so if you're keeping the red pump, convert that to a barb and run a line to that.

you can keep a filter down there i guess, but i'd put one up in the engine bay where it's more serviceable.

magenta circle: weird coupler and one time use clamps. adios that nonsense.

use worm clamps for all that.

so either that fitting is leaking or the fuel filter is. i'd replace all that stuff wholesale and clean it all up. no sense if having a bunch of bobo *** couplers, filters and bits of hose. simplify, simplify, simplify.
 
Okay, I went back through the OP's other thread about the dashboard rattle.

There is no mention anywhere of anything unusual (ie: not stock) about his engine.
In the third photo he posted in this thread, it looks like a \6.

So I will reiterate my previous post here:

"What is all that mess under there?
... tear it all out, relocate the components to sensible places, and start from there."

Why on earth do you have what appears to be a fancy electric fuel pump for what appears to be a stock slant-six?

Tear it ALL out, replace it with a metal line, if at all possible (either flare or compression fittings to connect it, it's not under pressure), and install a new mechanical fuel pump, if you have to (I'd recommend an old-stock unit, as the 'Zone unit the PO of my car installed lasted one year).

Yes, I will admit I drove a '71 Skylark from NY to California and back with rubber hose running the entire length of the car, from tank to fuel pump, without a problem, but it was a bad idea, and you shouldn't do that.

– Eric
 
Hey all, thanks for the reply, unfortunately the previous owner had some less than ideal maintenance practices when it came to repairs, as you can see. There is *another* fuel filter in the engine bay, the nice see through plastic one. I have absolutely no idea why there is 3-4 more down the line.

The pump works great, but I'm not sure why it was replaced, and I need to figure out just how much of the fuel line needs to be redone, as I'm not exactly a plumber, and have never tried to replace a line like this before, let alone with a metal pipe.
 
Also yes, it's a 225 Slant six, that's about all I know about the engine so far, besides that it runs great and starts right up (if all the fuel hasn't leaked out of it overnight)
 

From what I can tell, it's a regular car with a regular drivetrain, without significant modifications. Others may disagree, but with a regular, non-modified car, that you are not trying to do anything special with (drag racing, autocross, fancy shows), you are almost always (there are always exceptions in life) better off with dead-stock parts, preferably, these days, older-stock, non-Chinese parts.

Also, you don't sound like someone with a lot of experience with older cars, so you will have the easiest time understanding and fixing it if you stick to regular factory parts, the function and repair of which is completely covered in the service manual.

Based on what we've seen in your posts, it looks like the your car has been touched by the hands of the most dreaded, feared, and hated individual in the entire collector car world:

The Previous Owner.

There is no more evil character in the annals of motoring, and you will now come to understand his destructive powers and to detest the foul stench of his work.

Rip all that crap out.

Also, does your ammeter work? Based on what we've seen, there is probably f*ckery afoot in the electrical system, which could melt wires and/or your ammeter, and start a fire.

Beware.

– Eric
 
Yup, the ammeter works fine, charges while idle but just barely, discharges with the lights on.

I'm a part time electrical technician by job in the military, but all this mechanic stuff is pretty new to me. Until I get the stock pump (the mechanical would I assume) I'd like to just cut out all the useless junk and put replacement hose lining from the little brass looking fitting to the pump, atleast so I can drive it and not explode. Looking into full metal fuel lines but I need a way to make it drive able for now to get it there.
 
I'm a part time electrical technician by job in the military...

I don't know how much you've read on the various forumz, but if you have that training, then you will understand when I say that the ammeter is a "genuine" ammeter, where all of the current to and from the battery (except to the starter and horn) goes through the ammeter (and obviously its associated wires and connectors). This creates great potential for heat to damage things, especially in the case of loose connections and thoughtless modifications.


Until I get the stock pump (the mechanical would I assume) I'd like to just cut out all the useless junk and put replacement hose lining from the little brass looking fitting to the pump, at least so I can drive it and not explode.

Makes sense.


Looking into full metal fuel lines but I need a way to make it drive able for now to get it there.

Fair enough.

You can buy pre-bent lines from Inline Tube and probably others, but they can be "fun" to maneuver into position along the frame, and they're not cheap.

You can also get a length of tubing, a compression fitting, and a tubing cutter, trim the end of what's there, clean it up all purty, slide the nut and the ferrule on, tighten it up, bend the new piece to a shape that works and doesn't make you sick to look at, attach it, secure it to the frame so that it doesn't vibrate, and connect it to the fuel pump with a short length of rubber hose, and at least two hose clamps if you don't flare the end of the tubing (you don't want it to slide off).

But, frankly, replacing that abomination with one rubber hose would be an improvement.

– Eric
 
Broken length of the fuel line was replaced with steel braided fuel hose for no, until I get metal fuel lines installed, no longer leaks and seems to run better as well.

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