leaking holley 3310. hard restart

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o1heavy

o1heavy

1974 dart sport
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I have a 3310 holly on my 440 and I'm having a hard start after warmed up
I can look into the carb and after about 20 minutes the throttle blades will be soaking wet , I have all the basics covered , float level ,squiters are not leaking
Etc. It really looks like it's coming from the ports were the throttle blades contact the body. Anyone got any ideas as to how it can be leaking fuel from there
 
Was it installed correctly?

Could also be a percolation problem being that it mostly seen when the engine is hot (although i have never had a heat related issue with a Holley in my 25+ years of running them) but it's weird that this is manifesting itself at the transfer slots.

You could try a thicker carb to intake gasket.

But I still suspect an internal leak (improper gasket or installation, and/or PV) as the most likely cause.
 
It's not gonna fix itself. It has to come back down one way or the other. Nobody online is gonna be able to tell you "yeah, that's it, right THERE" with 100% certainty, so you may as well get crackin.
 
I lowered the float level in the rear and it seams to have helped. Yeah I know there is no magic screw driver that will fix it I was just kinda thinking out loud with the post trying to get the old rag to run as well as possible like setting the timing like crackedback has suggested to many folks on here and set the carb up as well as I can
 
Is it possible the rear float is simply too high? What do you get when you remove the rear sight plug? There are some who say to adjust so hat there is a slight trickle of fuel at idle. This is incorrect. You should adjust it so that with the sight plug out, the fuel is right at the bottom of the hole and will trickle out when you shake the front fender back and forth.
 
Where did you set initial timing?

That is the one thing that will kill you. It may not have enough, throttle blades open too far and activating the transition/main circuit at idle. Your situation is one of those symptoms.

If it doesn't start at basically the flick of your key, it's not set correctly. Cranks over a bunch and won't fire or you need to give it pedal to start, needs more initial timing.
 
It really seams that the rear float level was just to high. I'm messing getting cracking the secondary blades a little at
a time getting real close to perfect now. I have the base timing set at 25 degrees and total at 34. I pulled the distributor out and limited the mechanical timing ,welded the slot and just adjust as needed seams to really like. The timing.
 
It's not timing related.

I'd take the carb off and look at the primary transition slot and set it as a square. Whatever you turned the idle speed screw out to get there, turn the secondary open about the same amount. That should balance it so your idle speed will be close to same as when removed. Minor adjustments from there.

The wrong metering block gaskets and warped surfaces will cause issues as well. Allowing fuel to travel across the surface to areas it's not supposed to find.
 
The fuel we get nowadays likes to boil easily too....If those remedies don't work, you might try a fiber spacer under the carb to keep the heat down, or, put in a return line and circulate the fuel to keep it cool...
 
crackedback said:
Where did you set initial timing?

That is the one thing that will kill you. It may not have enough, throttle blades open too far and activating the transition/main circuit at idle. Your situation is one of those symptoms.

If it doesn't start at basically the flick of your key, it's not set correctly. Cranks over a bunch and won't fire or you need to give it pedal to start, needs more initial timing.
Click to expand...

me think crack is right,you see with a high lift can opening the secondary a tad give more air there is a small set screw that you can adjust for that reason,i always adjust for my high lift long duration this time i open it up too much and ran into the same problim you have closed it up and all is perfect,ps i also have the 3310-2.
 
taking the carb in and having it machined would be a good start... holley's bodies are pretty terrible then i comes to the surfaces... my 3310 was off about .012 (high on the outsides) and they can be off in any combination so ports leak into other ports etc.
 
I fixed the fuel boil problem a while back with a spacer ,but my next step was a return line if the spacer didn't work
 
The return is not a bad idea regardless.
 
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