Leaking Thermostat Housing. Thinking on billet with O Ring

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harrisonm

harrisonm

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Just noticed my thermostat housing is leaking a bit around the gasket AGAIN. I have an Edelbrock Air Gap intake and a chrome (I assume chromed aluminum) housing. I went through SEVERAL gaskets and varying amounts of RTV and thought I finally had it sealed. I have read a lot of bad press about the chrome housings. I thought a good billet housing with an O ring might seal better. Would you guys agree? I was thinking about this piece from Billet Specialties. It is reasonably priced. Has anyone on FABO used this? Billet Specialties | Engine Dress-up | Thermostat Housings | SB/BB Chrysler Straight Up | Billet Specialties, Inc.
 
This is what I got. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-tsh8cl
First I cleaned up the intake manifold (Edelbrock Performer) with denatured alcohol, then block sanded the thing with 120. Filled the two extra smaller mounting holes I didn't use with Aeropoxy to prevent leaking. Put the waterneck on, and adjusted the angle, put on a new hose and I was up and running.
 
Had the same problem with my chrome housing, I put sand paper on a flat surface and sanded the housing in figure 8's, you can definitely see the highs and lows, then used aviation gasket maker and a new gasket. installed waited 1 hour. Havent had a leak yet, fingers crossed
 
X2 to the billet with Oring. They are the best and look great too. Many of them swivel as well.

I used CSR.
 
My bb neck leaked and leaked . Removed neck , sanded on a flat surface , new gasket with sealer , job done . Keep spare gaskets and sealed on hand .
 
A hundred years ago when I used to go for chrome bits, every chrome thermostat housing I ever bought leaked.
I run a stock iron thermostat housing, it never leaks.
 
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I run a billet with o-ring similar to the one you posted, but paid about $30 for mine.

No leaks.
 
$45.00 + for a thermostat housing ? Hi Yi Yi !!!!!

Get yourself a stock iron housing, for $10.00 and be done with it.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
A hundred years ago when I used to go for chrome bits, every chrome thermostat I ever bought leaked.
I run a stock iron thermostat housing, it never leaks.
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Aren't stock Tstat housings aluminum with a paper gasket?
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Late ones, some, but every 1960's -'70 I've ever seen had an iron water neck. I'm not sure...but I'd guess starting with the slant 6, they went aluminum in around the early mid 70's
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I went thru this on my 440/505 w/ alum housing and pump. Did the sanding on a thick piece of glass, new gasket , still leaked. I then turned the flat surface of the chromed alum. stat housing on my little lathe. It held for about 3-4 heat cycles. So then I put it back in the lathe, trued it up and cut the surface down about .006 "cant remember exactly", anyway I stopped at the inside edge of the bolt holes, creating a raised place for the gasket to ride on, around the the stat. "This will cure ur problem." my stock cast iron even leaked too..
 
I just put one of those Billet Specialties housings with O-ring on my intake. I prepped the intake side by stripping all old gasket and sealer off and block sanding it. Then I bolted on the new Billet Specialties housing. It completely cured my leak problem. Did not use any sealer or anything else with it; just the O-ring. I would not use anything else after going this route.
 
All,

I'm suffering through the same issues. I put a chrome housing on top of a Spacer to run an extra temp probe. The Spacer is o-ringed and mates to the Air-Gap Mani. I had ever so slow weeping on a brand new setup with only new coolant and not even fired yet. I had it torqued to spec but gave it another 1/4 turn and it has stopped almost completely, also have leaker around the 3/8 NPT plug for the heater hose. Used ARP Thread sealer on the install, but have a small leak past a thread? I gave it another tweak too. The temp probe from a Summit Gage with the 5/8 Autometer adapter assy'd into the Spacer and it too is very fussy and had to be babied into place to get the shoulder on the probe to internally seal against the adapter. WTF is the deal with the DEXCOOL that it want to wick past every seal surface like a liquid penetrant. Looks like after the breakin and depending on the result I also may need some minor massaging to get a good seal(s).

Marion
 
1969VADart said:
I just put one of those Billet Specialties housings with O-ring on my intake. I prepped the intake side by stripping all old gasket and sealer off and block sanding it. Then I bolted on the new Billet Specialties housing. It completely cured my leak problem. Did not use any sealer or anything else with it; just the O-ring. I would not use anything else after going this route.
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Good to hear. I decided to order one. It should be here on Tuesday.
 
mario03srt said:
All,

I'm suffering through the same issues. I put a chrome housing on top of a Spacer to run an extra temp probe. The Spacer is o-ringed and mates to the Air-Gap Mani. I had ever so slow weeping on a brand new setup with only new coolant and not even fired yet. I had it torqued to spec but gave it another 1/4 turn and it has stopped almost completely, also have leaker around the 3/8 NPT plug for the heater hose. Used ARP Thread sealer on the install, but have a small leak past a thread? I gave it another tweak too. The temp probe from a Summit Gage with the 5/8 Autometer adapter assy'd into the Spacer and it too is very fussy and had to be babied into place to get the shoulder on the probe to internally seal against the adapter. WTF is the deal with the DEXCOOL that it want to wick past every seal surface like a liquid penetrant. Looks like after the breakin and depending on the result I also may need some minor massaging to get a good seal(s).

Marion
Click to expand...

Off subject here, but may I ask you why you are using Dexcool ?
That is a product, designed for GM cars. If you do a search on it, you will read nightmare stories on the product. Drain that crap while you have a chance.
 
J Dart,

Thanks for the heads up. I was not aware of all of the horror stories. I drained and flushed as best as I could for now. After break in and some circulation of what is left with all of the fresh water added, I will drain again the next day after. Just going with H2o for the moment until all the DEX is douched out of the engine.

Marion
 
mario03srt said:
J Dart,

Thanks for the heads up. I was not aware of all of the horror stories. I drained and flushed as best as I could for now. After break in and some circulation of what is left with all of the fresh water added, I will drain again the next day after. Just going with H2o for the moment until all the DEX is douched out of the engine.

Marion
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No worries...Drain that thing a few times to get that crap out.
Nice mix of 50/50 Prestone will do ya.
 
Doing my Jeep engine rebuild right now and the OEM housing was corroded. Being the cheap skate I am I mixed up some JB WEld and filled in the imperfections... next step will be sanding it flat. Fingers crossed... I'd rather use a 20 year old OEM housing than a Chi-Com POS...
 
harrisonm said:
JB Weld is good stuff. I bet it works fine.
Click to expand...
Yes it is... there are better hi-temp epoxies and specialized products but for something like a t-stat housing it's great.

I've had to modify my buying habits since I sold my big truck and retired... even though I still work 70 hours per week at age 68 I still have a mortgage and can't live on my SS income.

Lost all my 401k $$$ in a dot com drop.

So I have to watch my pennies when doing my car projects... 30 years ago I'd just open my wallet and buy new. But I come from an era when we FIXED things... didn't just toss a worn part in the trash. I learned from the old timers about saving what's still good (maybe that explains the accumulation of 'stuff' I have!). What makes a decision easier for me is the country of origin label... experience has shown me what works and what doesn't.

Carry on...
 
Update. No more Leak. Here is a copy of the Email I sent to Billet Specialties:
"I bought your Mopar billet thermostat housing for my 69 340 motor. I have been fighting a constant dribble from the base of my made in China chrome housing for years. I tried EVERYTHING. I went through so many gaskets, I was about ready to buy stock in Felpro. Your housing finally fixed my problem. I used a flat file on the intake surface like the guy on your tech line suggested. Thank you for producing such a fine product at such a reasonable price. I will definitely buy from you again."
 
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