LED Dash Bulbs for 67 Barracuda
- Thread starter gibby911
- Start date
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ops:There are different types of LED's that you can use. I bought white, red and blue, but ended up going with the white. Of course, you are going to want to get the push-in style. I recommend the 5 panel LED's. The type that most resembles the original style bulbs is designed to shine forward. The 5 panel lights shine to the sides and forward.
Keep in mind, that the LED's are polarized - they have a positive and negative (they are diodes). If they don't light up, pull the socket out and rotate 180*.
I also went with the white overlays for the gauges. I can see 'em now!
Keep in mind, that the LED's are polarized - they have a positive and negative (they are diodes). If they don't light up, pull the socket out and rotate 180*.
I also went with the white overlays for the gauges. I can see 'em now!
We did the swap in Dads 67 cuda and some work some don't. Buy quality ones and add extra grounds to your boards.
I installed LED's in my Duster 340 dash. The dash is restored and out of the car. Is there some way that I can check the lights now before it's installed to make sure the polarity is correct. I'm sure my 53 year-old neck and hands won't enjoy reaching up behind the dash once it's installed.
The rally panel has 4 bulbs for illumination. More or less the same count as others but a larger area to light up. LEDs aren't the only solution. They can fit too loose in the sockets and bottom against the blue tint diffusers and come and go with bumps in the road.
Here's the part most owners don't comprehend... nearly every bulb socket has a screw beside it. That screw and the kept washer on it, and its contact to the circuit board and inst' housing are all members of the ground path. It's a daisy chain of pieces to emulate a ground wire. So even if the dimmer rheostat in the headlight switch is new and full 12 volts is going to every bulb, they can't burn brightly without a proper ground.
Bottom line... when installing new bulbs, different from OEM or not, all 8 or just the 4, renew the ground path.
Here's the part most owners don't comprehend... nearly every bulb socket has a screw beside it. That screw and the kept washer on it, and its contact to the circuit board and inst' housing are all members of the ground path. It's a daisy chain of pieces to emulate a ground wire. So even if the dimmer rheostat in the headlight switch is new and full 12 volts is going to every bulb, they can't burn brightly without a proper ground.
Bottom line... when installing new bulbs, different from OEM or not, all 8 or just the 4, renew the ground path.
Comprehending these printed circuit boards is easier than getting the rabbit to the Trix on a cereal box.LOL
Everything on the panel should be tested before install.
Testing each gauge isn't so simple without the proper equipment.
As for testing the illumination only... Each board holds 2 illumination sockets. Both harness connectors have a orange wire going to these corresponding pin locations.
I took the diffusers out of mine.
Also, you can get the sockets on eBay or from some NAPA stores - Echlin brand. None that I bought fit as well as the originals. You might see if you could get some original sockets from the FABO wanted section, if you need them.
Also, you can get the sockets on eBay or from some NAPA stores - Echlin brand. None that I bought fit as well as the originals. You might see if you could get some original sockets from the FABO wanted section, if you need them.
Thanks RedFish. I had all my gauges checked and calibrated when I got my speedo fixed. I also got rid of the mechanical voltage reg. I will check out the orange connector for an illumination test.
Lack of diffusers will allow the bulb(s) fall to the bottom of the cavity.
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