Lets discuss another engine build

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That's what he will need, because he is dog nuts set on raising compression. Higher compression like he wants (in the 9.5-10:1 range) will be too high for his 268 cam with iron heads and pump gas.

I know. Now comes the plethora of fruitcakes saying they have done it. Magnum head or not, It won't work on pump gas well in the hotter months stuck in traffic on the street everyday.

Regardless of what "YOU" think is streetable, the bigger cam like I recommended will work better with the compression level he wants. Period, end of discussion.

I am not arguing. I am just throwing random ideas out.

Either you really want a cruiser (stock or near stock compression and mild cam) or you don't.

That's the decision that needs to be made. There could have been many reasons why it was a dog after all the work done. I was leaning towards the converter, but suddenly Ramie, you dropped off Facebook and brought it here where you get a million more opinions to confuse you.

I didn't think the engine needed a teardown at all. It could have been optimized like it was. I think ultimately the only reason you went for a teardown is because you listened to the forum gods telling you that you needed more compression and it's simply wasn't true.

Too late now. LOL So now that you've gone to all that trouble, my advice is simple. Raise the compression like you "think" you need. After all, you're already there now.

Once you do that, that 268 cam you have will be a poor match. Plus, you will need to spend real money on a good converter. If you don't drop 600 bucks at the least on one, that ain't enough.

PTC, Dynamic, Precision.....maybe crackedback will chime in with a few other companies. Call them and get a custom converter made for your car. Not some off the shelf B&M Holeshot or Turbo Action crap for 299 on sale.

You need to decide on what you want. Since you have her torn apart, you can still go whatever direction you want. I know what I would do, but you obviously don't want that route or you wouldn't have unscrewed it. lol

But you can still build low compression (9.5 and lower) everyday driver, which is what I recommended in the first place. It will run fantastic if it is cammed and assembled properly.

Good luck with whatever direction you take. Just remember, there are tons of people out there with very low compression engines making lots of power. Look at that 440 build Jim Laroy did. Never got to 8:1. Made gobs of power through good head work and smart parts choices.

You can do the same with a small block. You just need to decide what you want.



This does not strike me as what goes into a 'good cruiser'. It is getting into street/strip... IMHO. TC stall will have to be pushing 3000 RPM...revs can go to about 7k.... A 3k-7k RPM range is a smaller RPM ratio than a 2k-6k engine..... A wide operating range with a wider torque band makes a car easier to drive for general street use. (I raced a 4k to 8k 4 banger engine for quite a while, so I do kinda know that end of the spectrum.) Not trying to be disrespectful at all; the solid just does not seem to me to fit the desired application.

As for the solid AMC lifter to oil... look at the Comp Cams 801-16. That looks to be what would do that. There may be other brands.

The DCR first then SCR makes a lot of sense.... I actually start with an SCR and cam, get the DCR, and then adjust the cam or SCR a bit if needed to maintain the desired DCR limit. It just is that for a typical hydraulic flat tappet street cruiser cam, like the 268ish type, the SCR ends up at around 9.5 for pump gas and iron heads, for the pump gas DCR limit of the low 8 range. The 268ish hydraulic flat tappet gets set by the RPM range and stall.... like discussed above. It may be boring to do the same thing.... but there is clear rationale behind it.
 
No, DCR will be in the low 8's with a 9.5 SCR and a 268ish cam.. I don't see the problem. Use whichever calculator is desired; the results will come out there.

OP, if you are sticking with the 2800 RPM stall, then IMO that is the tail wagging the dog. It is throwing away a fair amount of the lower end RPM that you seem to desire.

Are the heads regular Magnums or some of the EQ's or Indy's? If the regulars, then I question the flow rates at higher RPM's. With a 2800 stall and low flow heads, the usable RPM range will start late and end early.... not IMO a good idea on a street cruiser. Keep either the high RPM's or the low RPM's ut don't give up both. If the 2800 stall needs to stay, then I'll change my cam ideas to be more like RRR is advocating. But limited head flow will still limit things.

But like always, the definition of 'street cruiser' means different things to different people so I may not be 'in tune' with what you would like.
 
Rob, I may have said that I wanted that 9.5-10 ratio back when we were going thru that work. However I did listen to you and when I started this thread I said 9.5 max and then asked if I should try to get as close to that as possible. After reading thru all the posts, I thought the KB362s would be the way to go and that is closer to the 9.1ish area. I dont want to push the limits and risk it. I would rather play it safe.

The engine did need to be tore down to fix the leak that kept coming back (between the block and head). A head gasket swap only fixed it for about a month, then the puddles started appearing again. Trust me its not something that I wanted to do!

As for the converter, Edge Racing are good converters and custom made, there are a lot of guys on the site running them and are happy with them. I believe I paid about 650 for it. So I have a quality converter I just didnt want to have to change to a new one again, but if I have to I will.
 
No, DCR will be in the low 8's with a 9.5 SCR and a 268ish cam.. I don't see the problem. Use whichever calculator is desired; the results will come out there.

OP, if you are sticking with the 2800 RPM stall, then IMO that is the tail wagging the dog. It is throwing away a fair amount of the lower end RPM that you seem to desire.

Are the heads regular Magnums or some of the EQ's or Indy's? If the regulars, then I question the flow rates at higher RPM's. With a 2800 stall and low flow heads, the usable RPM range will start late and end early.... not IMO a good idea on a street cruiser. Keep either the high RPM's or the low RPM's ut don't give up both. If the 2800 stall needs to stay, then I'll change my cam ideas to be more like RRR is advocating. But limited head flow will still limit things.

But like always, the definition of 'street cruiser' means different things to different people so I may not be 'in tune' with what you would like.

Thanks, I didnt realize keeping that converter would cause a issue. I just didnt want to throw down a bunch of money again, if I could make use of the one I had. If I have to buy a new converter so be it. Its easier to change now then later!

The heads are just regular magnums. If after having them checked and they are bad Im going to buy a set of the EQ's.

I agree that the definition of street cruiser varys'. Although I think you know exactly what Im looking for. Sunday afternoon, wife in the car, windows down and driving 60mph down the back roads taking in the scenery Type of cruiser.
 
OK. Remember one thing. All of these calculators don't take into consideration heat soak in traffic during the summer with high humidity in bumper to bumper traffic. If you drive the car on a regular basis at all, you will see that. Everyone arguing the point seems to be conveniently leaving that out.

I hope you get it worked out like you want it. I am over and done with the brick wall.


Thank you drive through.
 
OK. Remember one thing. All of these calculators don't take into consideration heat soak in traffic during the summer with high humidity in bumper to bumper traffic. If you drive the car on a regular basis at all, you will see that. Everyone arguing the point seems to be conveniently leaving that out.

I hope you get it worked out like you want it. I am over and done with the brick wall.


Thank you drive through.

Noted and thank you Party Pooper! :D
 
cruising the backroads at 60 is not bumper to bumper traffic. is the converter rated at 2800 or is that what your tach said. I would keep it. for a cruiser I don't call magnum heads low flow, for a race car O K - low flow.
 
I spite of what some will tell you, 2800 stall is a mild street converter. Should work great with that 268xe cam.
 
I dropped the block off, heads, and rotating assembly off at the machine shop Monday.

I explained what I was looking for in the build and also mentioned the coolant leak. The builder went in back and came out shortly after with there straight edge, he put it top to bottom on the front of the block and you could see daylight easily under it. Right where the coolant leak was coming from. A random spot checked on the rest of the deck showed more high and low spots. Strange thing was the passenger side deck was awful. The drivers side deck appeared to be pretty straight. However they are shaving it down and square decking it for the pistons.

The heads will be checked. If they check out ok, they will shave the them sightly to square them. I asked about the intake and he mentioned they do not marry the intake to the heads. They will shave the intake port side so that I can swap any intake onto the engine.

They believe I can get away with just a honing on the cylinders, since the engine only had a couple thousand miles on it. The crank looked good to them, but will check it all over as well.

I should hear from them with in a couple of weeks after the machining is done, and I'll touch base then.
 
Heard back today from the shop. Not really what I wanted to hear.

Heads, need a complete valve job. The shop was CCing the heads and they had water coming out of the ports. I did as well, but thought it was because I spilled water when I first started. I figured the original builder just slapped the valves in them and didnt do the valve job they said they did.

Now for the block. Its needs to be bored .010 more to .040. He installed the torque plate and the cylinders where out of round. They did say the pistons where rocking and there was evidence of it. Which probably explained the funny lines at the top of the cylinder. The stock pistons where also sitting .105 in the hole. So more machine work that I had originally planned on for it. Basically starting over from scratch.

Not the news I wanted to hear about this engine, but like I said it does not surprise me considering all the problems I have had with it. However lesson learned, research research research..
 
Sounds like they are honest and not willing to hide anything. Tells me they want to put out a good product.
 
Sounds like they are honest and not willing to hide anything. Tells me they want to put out a good product.

I agree! Im glad they are telling me everything that was wrong with the engine. They wanted to take the time with me today to discuss which direction I wanted to go with the build. I do have to call them again tomorrow to discuss a couple more things, and Im hoping to talk to the guy that is doing the actual machining on the engine.
 
Good to hear you're making progress! Ron will give you a great end result, he doesn't skimp! and he does all the machine work himself. I'm sure you'll be happy knowing it's finally right at least. Looking forward to some cruises with ya this Summer!
 
Good to hear you're making progress! Ron will give you a great end result, he doesn't skimp! and he does all the machine work himself. I'm sure you'll be happy knowing it's finally right at least. Looking forward to some cruises with ya this Summer!

Hey Doug! I tried to drop it off at Rons. He mentioned a time and I showed up. No one there. I waited for about a half hour longer and said heck with it. I ended up leaving and dropping it off @ Sharadon.

Ditto on the cruises. I hope this summer Im not so nervous to go on drives and wondering if it will stay running or start when I go to leave a car show. LOL
 
I consider all the "you didn't wanna hear" news good, because at least you will be starting from a clean slate. Good luck with it.
 
Oh man, sorry about that Ramie! Figures.... every time ya refer someone it goes south. That sucks!
 
No worries at all Doug! Could had just been miscommunication. I still have another block that might need work sometime
 
Found out today that 4 of the pistons were cracked. No idea where, but I did ask for them back. Would rocking in the bore cause the piston to crack?
 
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