That's what he will need, because he is dog nuts set on raising compression. Higher compression like he wants (in the 9.5-10:1 range) will be too high for his 268 cam with iron heads and pump gas.
I know. Now comes the plethora of fruitcakes saying they have done it. Magnum head or not, It won't work on pump gas well in the hotter months stuck in traffic on the street everyday.
Regardless of what "YOU" think is streetable, the bigger cam like I recommended will work better with the compression level he wants. Period, end of discussion.
I am not arguing. I am just throwing random ideas out.
Either you really want a cruiser (stock or near stock compression and mild cam) or you don't.
That's the decision that needs to be made. There could have been many reasons why it was a dog after all the work done. I was leaning towards the converter, but suddenly Ramie, you dropped off Facebook and brought it here where you get a million more opinions to confuse you.
I didn't think the engine needed a teardown at all. It could have been optimized like it was. I think ultimately the only reason you went for a teardown is because you listened to the forum gods telling you that you needed more compression and it's simply wasn't true.
Too late now. LOL So now that you've gone to all that trouble, my advice is simple. Raise the compression like you "think" you need. After all, you're already there now.
Once you do that, that 268 cam you have will be a poor match. Plus, you will need to spend real money on a good converter. If you don't drop 600 bucks at the least on one, that ain't enough.
PTC, Dynamic, Precision.....maybe crackedback will chime in with a few other companies. Call them and get a custom converter made for your car. Not some off the shelf B&M Holeshot or Turbo Action crap for 299 on sale.
You need to decide on what you want. Since you have her torn apart, you can still go whatever direction you want. I know what I would do, but you obviously don't want that route or you wouldn't have unscrewed it. lol
But you can still build low compression (9.5 and lower) everyday driver, which is what I recommended in the first place. It will run fantastic if it is cammed and assembled properly.
Good luck with whatever direction you take. Just remember, there are tons of people out there with very low compression engines making lots of power. Look at that 440 build Jim Laroy did. Never got to 8:1. Made gobs of power through good head work and smart parts choices.
You can do the same with a small block. You just need to decide what you want.
I know. Now comes the plethora of fruitcakes saying they have done it. Magnum head or not, It won't work on pump gas well in the hotter months stuck in traffic on the street everyday.
Regardless of what "YOU" think is streetable, the bigger cam like I recommended will work better with the compression level he wants. Period, end of discussion.
I am not arguing. I am just throwing random ideas out.
Either you really want a cruiser (stock or near stock compression and mild cam) or you don't.
That's the decision that needs to be made. There could have been many reasons why it was a dog after all the work done. I was leaning towards the converter, but suddenly Ramie, you dropped off Facebook and brought it here where you get a million more opinions to confuse you.
I didn't think the engine needed a teardown at all. It could have been optimized like it was. I think ultimately the only reason you went for a teardown is because you listened to the forum gods telling you that you needed more compression and it's simply wasn't true.
Too late now. LOL So now that you've gone to all that trouble, my advice is simple. Raise the compression like you "think" you need. After all, you're already there now.
Once you do that, that 268 cam you have will be a poor match. Plus, you will need to spend real money on a good converter. If you don't drop 600 bucks at the least on one, that ain't enough.
PTC, Dynamic, Precision.....maybe crackedback will chime in with a few other companies. Call them and get a custom converter made for your car. Not some off the shelf B&M Holeshot or Turbo Action crap for 299 on sale.
You need to decide on what you want. Since you have her torn apart, you can still go whatever direction you want. I know what I would do, but you obviously don't want that route or you wouldn't have unscrewed it. lol
But you can still build low compression (9.5 and lower) everyday driver, which is what I recommended in the first place. It will run fantastic if it is cammed and assembled properly.
Good luck with whatever direction you take. Just remember, there are tons of people out there with very low compression engines making lots of power. Look at that 440 build Jim Laroy did. Never got to 8:1. Made gobs of power through good head work and smart parts choices.
You can do the same with a small block. You just need to decide what you want.
This does not strike me as what goes into a 'good cruiser'. It is getting into street/strip... IMHO. TC stall will have to be pushing 3000 RPM...revs can go to about 7k.... A 3k-7k RPM range is a smaller RPM ratio than a 2k-6k engine..... A wide operating range with a wider torque band makes a car easier to drive for general street use. (I raced a 4k to 8k 4 banger engine for quite a while, so I do kinda know that end of the spectrum.) Not trying to be disrespectful at all; the solid just does not seem to me to fit the desired application.
As for the solid AMC lifter to oil... look at the Comp Cams 801-16. That looks to be what would do that. There may be other brands.
The DCR first then SCR makes a lot of sense.... I actually start with an SCR and cam, get the DCR, and then adjust the cam or SCR a bit if needed to maintain the desired DCR limit. It just is that for a typical hydraulic flat tappet street cruiser cam, like the 268ish type, the SCR ends up at around 9.5 for pump gas and iron heads, for the pump gas DCR limit of the low 8 range. The 268ish hydraulic flat tappet gets set by the RPM range and stall.... like discussed above. It may be boring to do the same thing.... but there is clear rationale behind it.