Let's talk about Super Stock springs

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'74 Sport

'74 Sport

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My son Aaron (DartThis74) bought some used Super Stock springs for his '74 Duster. We need to replace the bushings, so I got out the tape measure. The front eyes measure 1-1/2" dia. and have 7/16" bolt holes. I checked the bolt size on his '74 Dart Sport and '74 Duster and they both have 9/16" bolts through their front bushings.

First question: What constitutes "Super Stock" springs? Is it merely the spring rate (or stiffness)?

Second question: What does the bolt dia. tell me about the SS springs? Is this just an indication of the age of the springs, or did they all use the smaller bolts?

Third question: What should we look for as far as bushings? Can we get 1-1/2" dia. bushings with the larger bolt holes, so we can use the Duster's existing hardware? Who has them?

Thanks for any input,
Jerry
 
I used P/N P4452986 for the bushings. As for the bolts. I ran into the same thing and I bought them new just a year ago. I just put smaller bolts in it. I have had no problems at all. You cold allways use grade 8 bolts.

S/S springs are designed to control torque roll.
provide equal bite on the rear wheels
limit axle whind up
not lock up the rear but allow it to move
keeping the rear planted
thay try to pick up the car's body which pushes the rear end down planting the tires.
 
I got two boxes of bushings at NAPA for around $10...fyi your right rear side will be slightly higher than the left...I thought I had received the wrong springs when i saw that but it's supposed to be that way
 
By observation, what is there about leaf springs that tells you they are Super Stock? And, how do you tell which is left or right side - measure height?

Jerry
 
Look for part #s on the springs,last digit being even will be the r/s.Example
p34122002 is a r/s,p34122003 l/s.
 
I'm planning on running them on the Sedan and flipping the front hangers to keep it from being so azz high
 
NAPA was a wash-out today. All they showed in their catalog was the shackle bushings. Another local parts house carries Moog, and all they offered was shackle bushings.

I did find an older PST (Performance Suspension Technology) catalog that shows a full set of leaf spring bushings for 1962-1976 A-bodies for $50 (choice of 1-1/2" or 2")
 
I used "B" body springs on my Dart. They're not a stuff as SS but they're stonger than stock so the ride is better.
 
How could you do that? The B body springs are longer....unless you're talking about early B body springs
 
They do fit, there was a kit to change over the bolts and bigger shackles.
 
The spring stack orientation is different left to right. This was done to conpensate for the launch of the car. A neat idea if you want the car to sit level and your not planing on drag race only is to purchase two 002 springs which will make the rear of your car set level.
 
Excuse my ignorance, but what are "002 springs"? Are they complete 4 or 5 leaf sets? We have already invested in the SS springs, so we need to make use of them. How about adjusting the opposite torsion bar to level the car?

Jerry
 
Last three of the part number. And if you jack up a torsion bar you are gonna twist up your car real good
 
'74 Sport said:
Excuse my ignorance, but what are "002 springs"? Are they complete 4 or 5 leaf sets? We have already invested in the SS springs, so we need to make use of them. How about adjusting the opposite torsion bar to level the car?

Jerry
Click to expand...

002 and 003 refer to the last three digits in the A body SS leaf springs. 002 is the right 003 is the left. They work great for the purpose intended, and that is to plant both rear tires equally on the launch at the drag strip. i ran a set on my 72 BB Scamp and they work great. But the right rear f your car will set higher, this is because on the launch your motor twists clockwise wanting to lift the left wheel off the ground first. By the right rear sitting higher and the spring leafs being being orientated different than the left. It acts to counter this, therefore lifting the front more equally and planting both rears equally. This help?
 
I just noticed in your original post that you bought these used, They may not be 002 and 003. Here is a list of the different SS springs made.

Designed to control torque roll, providing equal bite on rear wheels through limited axle windup. These springs don’t lock up the rear, but allow it to move, keeping the tires on the track where they belong. The rear springs listed below have a 20" front segment and require a longer front spring hanger bracket for B-, E-, F-, J- and M-Bodies (not included). Standard hanger brackets used on A-Body. With P3412002–03, the rear eye in frame is moved forward; Pinion Snubber is recommended. If using P4120863, vehicle will not be level at standstill.
4120863 right-2800lb car weight-pro gas
4120864 left-super gas bracket car
3412002 right -original 1968 hemi ss
3412003 left- use on modified cars and all race hemi ss. Requires rear shackle relocation on B body cars.
3690456 right- 3400lb car weight
3690457 left-including 1964-65 ss B- body
3690454 right-3800lb car weight
3690455 left- B- body
4120865 right-3300lb
4120866 left-E-body(barracuda-challenger) requires rear shackle relocation on B-body.
3690460 right-3600lb
3690461 left- E-body(barracuda-challenger) requires rear shackle relocation on B-body .
 
Makes perfect sense. Just checked and can't see any part numbers on either spring. Need to clean off some surface rust maybe. Where are the number located?
 
Should be painted on and will also be stamped on the side that faces the ground
 
"Leveling" the car with the torsion bars when it's jacked up on one rear corner because of the springs will really twist the car. Imagine it like this. You have two floor jacks. First, jack up the right rear. Then take the other jack and put it under the left front. See just how far you'd have to raise that corner to "level" the car, and see just how much twist it would put in the body.

The left front would have to try to lift the left rear. By the time you managed to do that, if you could, the right front would be much lower than the left. So NOW you've got to adjust on the right front which would (eventually) also affect the right rear.

Now you've turned your decent riding Mopar into a HI-Boy
 
If the right rear is high, you can lower the front left also. You don't need to make a "HI-boy." Were only talking about 120lbs. or so per inch of travel. Also, we don't know the weights on each tire. I bet they are more than a hundred pounds off from side to side. Look at how the car is built. The motor is offset. The battery is in the far front left. Does the driver sit in the middle of the car? What about when a passenger or passengers enter the vehicle. What are the twisting forces on the body then? How can it possibly hold itself together? Just adjust the torsions.
 
Two 002 springs will negate the torque roll control advantage designed into the SS Springs. But if all you care about is how it looks, by all means - go for it! :roll:
 
i might be having a senile moment here, but can't you just count the leaves?? the cars with ss springs set higher on the right cuz the right side has an extra leaf.
am i wrong here??
 
There is one additional small leaf on the right side which slightly increases the arch and spring rate on that side. It's a pretty simple concept, but it works well to manage the different forces coming into play on launch.
 
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