Lifter bore bushings

-
nitrojunkee

nitrojunkee

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 4, 2012
Messages
393
Reaction score
57
Location
Denver
Are they necessary? I see a lot of confliction when it comes to this subject, and would like more input.

I've kind of already talked about my build... late 70's 440 block, K1 4.150" stroker crank, Scat H-beams (Chevy style 2.200" rod pin, 6.700" length), Most likely Diamond custom blower pistons, RPM heads reworked for 2.19" intake valves. I want to go solid roller for a couple reasons...1. No break in 2. The slight power gain. With the little knowledge I have, and the reading I've done, I'm thinking a smaller street roller somewhere along the lines of a split pattern, 230-240@ .050, .600 lift maybe a touch more to compensate for zero lash, on a 114. I haven't spec'd anything out, just been looking at lobe profiles mostly on Bullets website. I've never messed with bushing lifter bores in any other build, but this is my first big block Mopar build. This car will be lucky to see 1000 miles/year. Mostly short cruises and maybe a trip to the track once a year, if that.

So what's the deal? Is this something I have to do, and if so why? Also remember, I'm at 6000' above sea level, so I'll be making 80-100hp less than most of you are probably used to....Even with some boost.
 
I would do it. you could also check and correct the bore angles and position which usually are not in spec on some blocks. Also less friction from oiled bronze.
 

Attachments

  • block1.jpg
    70.7 KB · Views: 655
  • block3.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 639
  • block12.jpg
    55.1 KB · Views: 596
  • block15.jpg
    43.2 KB · Views: 643
The latest parts are designed to drop in without them. that being said - That's for cheap and easy, not for performance. I will not run any solid roller without bushing the bores.
1. It adds stability to the valvetrain because as OMM said - it fixes machining issues with the factory bores.
2. It adds safety should you have a failure and a lifter pop out of the bore because unless it happens at idle by the time you notice it and shut the engine down and it stops turning - the lower end has starved for oil (seen this twice personally).
3. It adds control to the problem of oil pressure bleeding past worn lifter bores which means you can set up a better oil delivery to the top end and lower end.
4. Because of item 1. it lengthens the life span of the roller lifters.
5. Becasue of item 1. it gives you "free" horsepower by removing loss of valve control due to harmonics and truing-up the roller to lobe relationship.

The main reason I do it is 2. But all of those are true over no bushings.
 
Alright guys, I appreciate all of the quality info! I guess I need to decide what to do at this point. My machinist charges $630 w/bushings to do it. I think that's a pretty fair price. I really don't want to have to mess with breaking in a camshaft. And I'm trying to build this motor to last for a good amount of time.
 
I ran a roller cam before with comp 829-16's in an unbushed block with no problems and that engine is still running today overseas. But i'd imagine as moper posted above are good reasons to. guess it depends on how much of a crap shoot you wanna take.
 
Alright, I have another issue, or more of a dilemma I'm pondering. Completely off the topic of the original post, but I figure It's my post to hijack anyway, so lol.

I've got a Romac balancer that came off of this engine. It's a steel shell, and seems to be in fine shape. Obviously I'm having everything balanced internally, and I've heard good things about Romac. My initial thought was to just reuse the Romac balancer, that it would probably be just fine. And all the pulley's including the Procharger pulley is already to rock with that balancer....Here's the question...Do you guys think it would be worth the added expense of buying an ATI balancer, and also most likely having to deal with the pulley geometry being off? I'm still thinking to just use the Romac. I do have a budget, I'm not just going for broke on this build. But I don't want to skimp on things I shouldn't either.

Thoughts?
 
Talk to Mike Liston at MRL Performance. He sells a really nice drop in lifter that does not require bushings. Damned if I would do it if it ain't necessary.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Talk to Mike Liston at MRL Performance. He sells a really nice drop in lifter that does not require bushings. Damned if I would do it if it ain't necessary.
Click to expand...

As you suggested, I did give him a call. Probably one of THE nicest, and most helpful shop owner/engine builders I've ever talked to! Gave me great info about bushing or not bushing lifter bores, info I didn't know. He also gave me a lot of other great information. I will definitely be ordering his lifters, and as much of the other top end/valve train components that I can. Thank you for the recommendation! And thank you, Mike!
 
There are only a handful of people I would do business like that with without being face to face. Mike Liston is one. IQ52 (Jim Laroy) is another.
 
I guess I'm rolling the dice. I'm going to run my COMP.
solid roller lifters without bushings. COMP tech said they're not neccesary. I'll see how it goes and keep everyone posted.
 
Doosterfy said:
I guess I'm rolling the dice. I'm going to run my COMP.
solid roller lifters without bushings. COMP tech said they're not neccesary. I'll see how it goes and keep everyone posted.
Click to expand...

I've decided not to have my lifter bores bushed either. I was advised by more than one person yesterday, that unless it's an all out race application that is going to see severe rpm's (well over 7000rpm) It's not recommended. I also did a little more research on roller lifters, and it looks like finding a lifter that has a fully shielded roller is the way to go as well....Something like these...http://johncalliesinc.com/product.php?ProductNo=5526

I think sometimes we tend to get caught up in overkill, myself included. I'm not saying what others have suggested is overkill to them, obviously it has worked for them, otherwise they wouldn't recommend it....Hopefully. It's always nice to get others thoughts and opinions, that's why I ask questions.
 
-Sledgehammer- said:
hmmmm. wonder if that cutaway in the lifter body will affect oil pressure. my lifters have a cutaway in them but I pushrod oil also.
Click to expand...

Richard at Bullet said no, it will have zero affect on oil pressure, even for those that are oiling through the pushrod.
 
cool! ad is real vague for the application those lifters are for. I have taller lifter bore so the cutaway band wont get exposed also.

Here is a pic of IMM and cranes. IMM is at full lift of cam but you can also see the link bar is closer to block on the cranes.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top