Lighten up my race car

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The weight of the bench was only a few pounds more than the factory high back buckets I had. Some day if I convert to a swing out bar I may go back to a light race bucket but they are not back friendly for me either. Its give and take you pull a bunch of weight out and then because of a change you throw a few back in. You can drive yourself nuts counting pounds and ounces I try to only look at the big stuff and then the smalls.
 
My 71 duster is completely stock appearing, all cast iron motor, full exhaust, complete interior, all steel exterior, factory wheels and tires, roll bar, 2x3 subframe connectors, and it weighs in the low 2800's. You just have to be commited to the end goal.
 
joes68340s said:
The weight of the bench was only a few pounds more than the factory high back buckets I had. Some day if I convert to a swing out bar I may go back to a light race bucket but they are not back friendly for me either. Its give and take you pull a bunch of weight out and then because of a change you throw a few back in. You can drive yourself nuts counting pounds and ounces I try to only look at the big stuff and then the smalls.
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The bench seat itself does not bother my back, wrestling it OUT of the car by myself was what did it.

The seats in my car are fixed, high back buckets from an '80s Jeep Scrambler I got free from the dealership where I used to work. I used the aluminum S/S seat brackets to mount them. They are 22lbs TOTAL including the brackets and new seat covers. Not kidding! They weighed LESS than the A100 van seats I have. That's around 55 lbs from the center of the car.

I'd re-think it, hard to toss that much weight as easily as that. If you only put one racing seat back in you'd probably be shaving over 70lbs.

Losing 100lbs = 1/10th reduction in ET, all else being equal.
 
I did not think this was about me so I wont say anymore other than I am happy with the cars performance 11.30s on a bad tune should be good for 11 teens and I like the bench seat. Its just my thing.
 
Thanks guys for all the input, car is gutted heater box gone ,only wired as needed aluminum tubs ,glass hood, bumpers, I have a rear glass valance off of other car,aluminum bumper brackets . Will get the deck lid and front fenders. I wish bobs glass doors were closer shipping is a killer. Ordered some race bullit muffs so I can sneak it out on a Sunday morning or two. Lol
 
nwdart said:
Thanks guys for all the input, car is gutted heater box gone ,only wired as needed aluminum tubs ,glass hood, bumpers, I have a rear glass valance off of other car,aluminum bumper brackets . Will get the deck lid and front fenders. I wish bobs glass doors were closer shipping is a killer. Ordered some race bullit muffs so I can sneak it out on a Sunday morning or two. Lol
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You have all that and you think it's heavy!?? Spray it.
 
rmchrgr said:
The bench seat itself does not bother my back, wrestling it OUT of the car by myself was what did it.

The seats in my car are fixed, high back buckets from an '80s Jeep Scrambler I got free from the dealership where I used to work. I used the aluminum S/S seat brackets to mount them. They are 22lbs TOTAL including the brackets and new seat covers. Not kidding! They weighed LESS than the A100 van seats I have. That's around 55 lbs from the center of the car.

I'd re-think it, hard to toss that much weight as easily as that. If you only put one racing seat back in you'd probably be shaving over 70lbs.

Losing 100lbs = 1/10th reduction in ET, all else being equal.
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Wow, never new that, way cool.
 
What trans? 727 or 904? About 35 lbs difference and a bunch is rotating weight. Spool or limited slip. There’s about 12 lbs there, maybe more if you go aluminum spool. Going from steel to thin stainless steel on a full exhaust car is significant.
 
Okibonoe said:
What are folks doing for cheap, bolt in, and light steering columns?
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I have seen a few of these selling on A body group facebook site.

Screenshot_20191022-230434_Facebook.jpg
 
I put a chris alston one in my 72 b body, have to cut and weld to the length you want. It's more then the one from the a body FB page but another option.

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nwdart said:
Looking for advice on best way to lighten up the dart. Motor is a fresh 340 with eddy heads electric water pump ,altercation front k, glass hood,bumpers and aluminum bumper brackets. At minimum will get glass deck lid. Thinking of fenders and doors, never had glass doors before do they have any way to let air in on drivers side while staging . Roll up or sliding lexan? Motor is freshly dyno tuned 460 hp at 7 k so not willing at this point to touch it. So have to get lighter to go quicker. Still has full glass in rear quarter windows and doors. Advice,opinions,who to buy from is wanted.....GO!
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I just finished up a vfn fiberglass dash. I am told it's worth 35 pounds over stock.

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nwdart said:
Looking for advice on best way to lighten up the dart. Motor is a fresh 340 with eddy heads electric water pump ,altercation front k, glass hood,bumpers and aluminum bumper brackets. At minimum will get glass deck lid. Thinking of fenders and doors, never had glass doors before do they have any way to let air in on drivers side while staging . Roll up or sliding lexan? Motor is freshly dyno tuned 460 hp at 7 k so not willing at this point to touch it. So have to get lighter to go quicker. Still has full glass in rear quarter windows and doors. Advice,opinions,who to buy from is wanted.....GO!
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If you decide to do the door Windows, Jerry Bickel race cars makes a very nice mounting bracket out of chrome moly. They are very nicely made and you could not assemble a kit for the price of there pre-made ones and they would not come out as nice. All tig welded.
The listing says from 1970 and up Dart but they fit perfect on my 68.
 
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