Loctite or anti seeze??
- Thread starter inkjunkie
- Start date
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Well let me persuade you in another direction. The bolt loosens because of vibration. Believe this or not...I have rebuilt many bikes and have done some racing. If I have a bolt that continually vibrates loose I use high temp silicone. Make sure everything is clean and oil free dab it on and torque it to the specs let it dry and you will be amazed. As it vibrates the silicone will not break loose because of the elasticity. Hey what do you have to lose? If it doesn't work and I bet it will (I have it on bolts on my Harley) go the route of others.
I think Loctite taste better than anti-sieze....
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
Did not look there, just at NAPA and was told they no longer carry it.
High temp silicone....I use the Permatex Copper on my Pellet Stove, is that the one you are talking about? I have never used it as a thread locking agent but have used it in place of Teflon tape. Have a buddy that sets up/maintains aquariums for a living, he suggested it. Will give it a try.
Going to be a problem trying to safety wire it. Other than the bolt into the other head there is noting to anchor it to. And if I were to use the other bolt the safety wire is going to be strung right on top of a chrome part. Don't think drilling a hole thru the fins is a real good idea, would be concerned with the vibrations making the safety wire act as a small file, slowly opening the hold up. Or am I just paranoid?
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Just wire them ink.
They trusted it on aircraft for decades. (Still do)
Here's a good video on it, but I think it might be a slight difference from the engine you have.
Just saw your reply about the wire.
Hi temp RTV is the orange or red stuff, and it say's Hi temp on the tube.
Those ultra styles are more for sealing.
I have to agree with the people that said RTV now, due to the bolt being in a solitary location.
Just clean the threaded hole and the bolt of all oils or lubes, and RTV the threads only.
That will do it.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwFjUX6SaY8"]Jet Tech: Lockwire - YouTube[/ame]
They trusted it on aircraft for decades. (Still do)
Here's a good video on it, but I think it might be a slight difference from the engine you have.
Just saw your reply about the wire.
Hi temp RTV is the orange or red stuff, and it say's Hi temp on the tube.
Those ultra styles are more for sealing.
I have to agree with the people that said RTV now, due to the bolt being in a solitary location.
Just clean the threaded hole and the bolt of all oils or lubes, and RTV the threads only.
That will do it.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwFjUX6SaY8"]Jet Tech: Lockwire - YouTube[/ame]
inkjunkie
Well-Known Member
I may be mistaken about the safety wire thing, will go check shortly. If so, will be on the phone with Leroy about it. All of his safety wire stuff is with his two planes at an airport....Some of the stuff on the bike really does need to be safety wired. Used split lock washers and blue Loctite on the 2 metal plate screws, the other two are plastic "LED bolts"...noticed the other day that both of the steel bolts on the plate are gone....again. Wish I had $10 for everything that has loosened up on this thing, I would be able to go on a nice vacation. This thing thumbs its nose at Loctite and lock washers...Solid mount 110" Rev Tech V twin, whowouldhaveeverthunk it would shake like it does. Last year I wire wheeled all the handle bar clamp bolts cleaned. Took a very small bottle brush and cleaned the threads on the clamps. Cleaned everything with alcohol and waited a day to put it together. Used a just opened tube of Blue Loctite and torqued the bolts down to what the manual says. Was not 500 miles and they were loose.....again.....
375inStroke
Well-Known Member
Don't use stainless on aluminum. It will corrode in very little time.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That's one of the reasons we ride Honda's
We like to ride em, not work on em all the time.
If the bolt in question is going thru a plate or tab of some sort then it's fair game to drill. Not uncommon at all to drill something adjacent to a single bolt and wire to it. I wouldn't drill a cooling fin.
Attached is the Mil-Spec for safety wiring. I suspect that this is an older spec, but it still has good & helpful info in it.
Attached is the Mil-Spec for safety wiring. I suspect that this is an older spec, but it still has good & helpful info in it.
No Plastic temperature activated sealant will help...
Serrated Flange Bolts--- Grade 5 US.
cjh
Well-Known Member
......
Need these to use tie wire correctly.
Need these to use tie wire correctly.
These?
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-safety-wire-twisting-pliers-45341.html
Say what you want about HF tools, I'm not going to defend them. Only using them as a possible source and for their picture.
I have two pair of safety wire pliers, one is a good, mil-spec set and the other are some of these. I use the MS set in the shop and carry the HF set in the race/chase tool bag that goes into the field.
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-safety-wire-twisting-pliers-45341.html
Say what you want about HF tools, I'm not going to defend them. Only using them as a possible source and for their picture.
I have two pair of safety wire pliers, one is a good, mil-spec set and the other are some of these. I use the MS set in the shop and carry the HF set in the race/chase tool bag that goes into the field.
cjh
Well-Known Member
These?
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-safety-wire-twisting-pliers-45341.html
Say what you want about HF tools, I'm not going to defend them. Only using them as a possible source and for their picture.
I have two pair of safety wire pliers, one is a good, mil-spec set and the other are some of these. I use the MS set in the shop and carry the HF set in the race/chase tool bag that goes into the field.
Yep, thats them.....the set I have are ABW brand.
I use them for KRESS Corp. Final Drives....they have tie wired bolts for the Reaction Hub to Ring Gear bolts, and the Reduction Carrier Pin bolts.
funwithfuel
Well-Known Member
Just a suggestion, would you not stud the head? 3/8th N/C grade 8 and a drop of blue loctite going into the heads. Top side of mount hardened flat washer with a wide shoulder clamped down with 3/8th N/F crown lock nut.
It's what I used to correct the same problem with my over square sporty and my uncle's big twin. Before, they would shake loose. Now, well his has been together for 4 years now.
If your engine is solid mount big inch stroker, and you have the risk of breaking the studs. Maybe grade 5 would be better as opposed to 8 as far as drilling out in the future. Good luck.
It's what I used to correct the same problem with my over square sporty and my uncle's big twin. Before, they would shake loose. Now, well his has been together for 4 years now.
If your engine is solid mount big inch stroker, and you have the risk of breaking the studs. Maybe grade 5 would be better as opposed to 8 as far as drilling out in the future. Good luck.
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