long wheel studs for factory discs

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Interesting. I did look up the rule and it appears to still require all studs to protrude the nut. Is there a more recent release on this rule?
Regardless of the rule, I do need to replace the studs. Just so this post doesn't turn into an NHRA rule post and stays a stud replacement topic :)


SECTION 21: GENERAL REGULATIONS, TIRES AND WHEELS:5 5:2 WHEELS (Page 21) (4/24/2019)
Hubcaps must be removed for inspectors, who will check for loose lugs, cracked wheels, worn or oversize lug holes, and condition of spindles, axle nuts, cotter pins, etc. Snap-on hubcaps are prohibited on any class car. The use of “spinner” style wheels or any wheel design that incorporates movable pieces while vehicle is in motion or stationary are prohibited.


Each car in competition must be equipped with automotive-type wheels with a minimum 12 inches of diameter unless Class Requirements stipulate otherwise. Motorcycle wheels or lightweight automotive wire wheels must be equipped with .100- inch minimum diameter steel spokes, properly cross-laced to provide maximum strength. All spoke holes in rim and hub must be laced. Omissions to lighten wheels prohibited. The thread engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut, or lug bolts to wheel hubs, must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the stud/bolt. Length of the stud/bolt does not determine permissibility. (Example: A 7/16-inch stud must be thoroughly engaged through the threads in the hex portion of the lug a minimum of 7/16-inch.)

I get that you need to replace your studs. Just not sure why you want the long studs.

If you read the part in parentheses you’ll see it says why I did it says, they just changed the wording.

You need the diameter of the stud engaged into the threads of the nut.

I just detest those long studs. When you start running wheels with thick center sections you need the longer studs, but it has to be a pretty thick wheel before you need longer studs.
 
I agree completely. I'm running old school centerlines. When I place them on the existing stud the outer surface of the wheel is about even with the stud. My lugs are open ended shank type which grabs alot of thread but the end of the stud is receased inside of the lug quite a bit.
 
I agree completely. I'm running old school centerlines. When I place them on the existing stud the outer surface of the wheel is about even with the stud. My lugs are open ended shank type which grabs alot of thread but the end of the stud is receased inside of the lug quite a bit.

That’s probably going to be an issue, even if 7/16 or 1/2 an inch is into the hex portion of the nut. That’s why the rule book has the sentence above the one in parentheses...”length of stud/bolt does not determine permissibility”.

It may be easier to use the long studs than fight them at the track.
 
I agree, plus I would prefer more thread enguagment. The longer studs I have found have a much shorter knurled and shoulder section that would only secure to the hub, not the rotor. I'd like know if anyone had issues running the shorter knurled studs? The rotors would be a little sloppy on the threads (being a smaler diameter then the shoulder) but I'm thinking they would be secured tight once the lugs go on?
 
I just found this options at etrailer.com


Specs:
$10.79 each

  • Thread diameter: 1/2"

  • Stud length: 2.7"

  • Spline length: 0.68"

  • Base length: 1.38"

  • Spline diameter: 0.54"

upload_2020-5-12_14-21-41.jpg


Thread Diameter (A)

Stud Length (B)

Spline Length (C)

Base Length (D)

Spline Diameter (E)

1/2"

2.7"

0.68"

1.38"

0.54"
 
Here's the thread about the ones that Pentastar used to carry.
Kelsey Hayes longer wheel studs
There's probably some other supplier, but our Australian friends would know better.
If going that route, I'd have bushings machined so the Aussie studs would be in double shear when installed on the K-H hub-n-rotor.
upload_2020-5-14_21-43-20.png


Another option is to have a set machined like this guy did.
Kelsey Hayes brakes long wheel studs

Everything I've read says threads formed into previously heat treated stock have much greater fatigue life compared to cut threads.
So again playing it safe, IMO it would be worth calling this company about having a set with rolled threads rather than cut threads.
They even specifically mention wheel studs.
Wilson-Garner American Made Wheel Studs
 
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